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My noob detailing experience

Claying, polishing, waxing... share your secrets in here.
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thanatu55
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My noob detailing experience

Post by thanatu55 » Sat Nov 11, 2017 8:31 pm

I don't know how well versed everyone is in the detailing side of things, but I'd place myself firmly with the noobs. Sure I regularly polish and wax when needed, but never before have I thought about things like 'flake pop' or whether or not the product I'm using is suited to 'mid tones' and metalics, or whether my Zed is suited to carnauba waxes or synthetic polymer sealants, and on and on. If all of this sounds like another language then you're a noob like me. If all of this is bread and butter to you then I can't help you, but you could sure teach me a thing or two!

So with the above in mind I have taken it upon myself to try and learn a few things. After my previous detailing session I was quite disappointed that the products I used were drowning out the metallics in my paintwork, and by trying to achieve that 'wet' look I wasn't doing my Zed any favours. I've spent a bit of time talking to the guys at Detailing World and reading some of the articles at Polished Bliss. Anyway, to save having to listen to more of me waffling on, the purpose of this post was to point anyone who can't get their head around all the different types of products to what I consider the Holy Grail of LSP (last stage protection) detailing for noobs! I can't take credit mind, those boffins at Detailing World directed me there. See this link:

**** http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog ... ction.html ***

Now today was supposed to be for clearing out the garage, but since the rain has hampered any of my plans over the past few weeks I had to take advantage of the dry sunny weather and put my slightly better understanding of detailing to the test. Polished Bliss actually recommend the Blackfire Wet Diamond kit for my paint colour, but I couldn't justify the expense right now so I went with their second choice of Carlack long Life as a sealant, though I replaced Carlack Complete with Bilt Hamber's Cleanser Polish as was recommended to me as a slight upgrade on the Carlack kit. I can not recommend Bilt Hamber's range enough, everything they do is outstanding.

So I started with a fallout remover, Bilt Hamber's Korrosol to remove any embedded metals and crud, followed up by a wash with Bilt Hamber's Autowash. I also used their clay for a much deeper clean and their Cleanser Fluid to remove all previous waxes, sealants and polish leftovers. Now to test my new acquisitions.

Bilt Hamber's Cleanser Polish, all I can say about this stuff is it is simply stunning. The finish it leaves behind is better than anything I've used before, all of a sudden in that deep pool of blue those metallic flakes in the paintwork do literally pop, hence the term 'flake pop'. Bear in mind I'm doing this all by hand, I'm told the results with a DA are unbelievable. And it's so easy to use, let it haze and wipe off, no tough to remove residue.

Carlack Long Life, again the results were outstanding. By this time I'm racing against the remaining daylight, so no great pics unfortunately, but this stuff you can keep layering, every new layer improves upon the last one, which is impressive considering just one layer is enough to give that wow factor. I managed two layers before it went dark, the last one I must have whizzed round in about 20 minutes.

I was following the advice for a mid tone metallic, and it's the best return I have ever got from the products used. I recommend the above link as a loose guide for whatever your paint type or even just to get a better understanding of how polishes, waxes and sealants work.

As I say, I was racing against the clock and while I managed to get a few pics taken they don't do the finish justice at all, and no close ups sorry.

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And my mirrors finally carbon wrapped and returned!

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Last edited by thanatu55 on Sun Nov 12, 2017 11:53 am, edited 2 times in total.
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greg81

Detailing tips

Post by greg81 » Sat Nov 11, 2017 8:35 pm


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thanatu55
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Detailing tips

Post by thanatu55 » Sat Nov 11, 2017 8:43 pm

Ah can I move this over somehow?
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MACK
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My noob detailing experience

Post by MACK » Sat Nov 11, 2017 8:55 pm

Not sure if it would be of interest to you but if you Google Chemical Guys they have a great detailing process chart that can be downloaded as a PDF. They also have some decent videos about it etc. Obviously there's loads of others out there as well but theirs is pretty good and easy to find. Re your comment on sealant and carnauba wax. As a general rule always seal a car and then wax it. You can then re wax every month or so and reseal every 6-12 months or so. Dark cars always give better results in terms of the wet look/ depth of shine than something like silver so yours should come up a treat and be really worth the effort as you seem to found today.

Good on you for getting out there and doing it though. Made me think I really need to do mine
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thanatu55
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My noob detailing experience

Post by thanatu55 » Sat Nov 11, 2017 9:14 pm

Thanks! I will definitely take a look at the Chemical Guys process. The last wax I used prior to today was Chemical Guy's Pete's 53 Black Pearl on recommendation and it definitely achieved the wet look but it didn't last very long and seemed to make my car one shade too dark. It could just be a placebo effect, but part of the reason for looking into everything was to achieve a brighter finish and it seems that I managed that at least :)
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Silverzedtom
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My noob detailing experience

Post by Silverzedtom » Sat Nov 11, 2017 9:16 pm

That looks epic... Although rains the enemy after a detail I bet your looking forward to seeing the beading.

Love all the mods you’ve added as well. Looks like they’ve done a great job on the mirrors :thumbsup:
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My noob detailing experience

Post by thanatu55 » Sat Nov 11, 2017 9:17 pm

One question...

I wanted to do more than two layers but there wasn't enough daylight to keep going. If I add to it again tomorrow, weather dependant, should I wash it again first so I'm working on a clean base or is that an unnecessary step?
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My noob detailing experience

Post by thanatu55 » Sat Nov 11, 2017 9:19 pm

Silverzedtom wrote: Sat Nov 11, 2017 9:16 pm That looks epic... Although rains the enemy after a detail I bet your looking forward to seeing the beading.

Love all the mods you’ve added as well. Looks like they’ve done a great job on the mirrors :thumbsup:
Thanks :thumbsup:
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greg81

My noob detailing experience

Post by greg81 » Sat Nov 11, 2017 9:40 pm

thanatu55 wrote: Sat Nov 11, 2017 8:43 pm Ah can I move this over somehow?
I wouldn't worry too much, sorry I was more just letting you know that was all there!

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My noob detailing experience

Post by thanatu55 » Sat Nov 11, 2017 9:49 pm

greg81 wrote: Sat Nov 11, 2017 9:40 pm
thanatu55 wrote: Sat Nov 11, 2017 8:43 pm Ah can I move this over somehow?
I wouldn't worry too much, sorry I was more just letting you know that was all there!
No problem, thanks :)
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My noob detailing experience

Post by Steve84N » Sat Nov 11, 2017 9:56 pm

LSD is how you go sideways, LSP is Last Stage Protection. :wink:

Looks decent and yes a DA is worth it. Can get a reasonable one for £40-£60. Most of the fundamental shine comes from the paint being swirl free rather than the product on top so it's worth machine polishing to get that mirror finish.
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My noob detailing experience

Post by MACK » Sat Nov 11, 2017 10:05 pm

thanatu55 wrote: Sat Nov 11, 2017 9:17 pm One question...

I wanted to do more than two layers but there wasn't enough daylight to keep going. If I add to it again tomorrow, weather dependant, should I wash it again first so I'm working on a clean base or is that an unnecessary step?
It depends really if it's rained on or left to get dew on overnight a quick wash with a wax free ph neutral shampoo is probably wise to get rid of any surface contaminants in the moisture. Then dry and re wax to build up the layers. It's the same really as reapplying after a wash in a months time to top it up really. I probably wouldn't put more than 2 coats on a day to get an even coverage and then leave it a few days to harden/set before apply more etc. Might be wrong about that as I'm no detailing guru myself either.
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My noob detailing experience

Post by thanatu55 » Sat Nov 11, 2017 10:15 pm

Steve84N wrote: Sat Nov 11, 2017 9:56 pm LSD is how you go sideways, LSP is Last Stage Protection. :wink:

Looks decent and yes a DA is worth it. Can get a reasonable one for £40-£60. Most of the fundamental shine comes from the paint being swirl free rather than the product on top so it's worth machine polishing to get that mirror finish.
Ha yeah LSP... Noob blunder! oops :?

I know it's what everyone says first time but I'm scared to do damage with a DA. My dad has one I think, I'd need to get new pads though.
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My noob detailing experience

Post by thanatu55 » Sat Nov 11, 2017 10:17 pm

Saying that, wouldn't it be too late now I've done all that? I'd have to strip it back and start again :(
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Post by MACK » Sat Nov 11, 2017 10:39 pm

I'd leave it for now since you've put in a days hard work seems a shame to undo it. Probably best to get winter out of the way and then look to go to town on it come the spring once all the salt an stuff is off the roads. In terms of buffing/mopping it. Orbitals are safer than rotarys as orbitals by their nature move to different spots so don't burn the paint. Rotary are better at removing deeper blemishes and scratches and as long as your careful you'll be fine. I've never burnt paint with mine on many cars over the years, even when using cutting compounds to removes scruffs and scratches etc, as long as you keep it moving and things wet. BMW paint is known for being pretty tough/hard compared to say jap stuff so it's not a bad option to start off on.
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Mods inc - F/L Xenons Clear Ind Rear Lights M Sport Seats & Wheel Eibach/B4 3.64 DIFF (SOLD)

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