My little project Z4 2.0 Sport..

chapeau · Post by **chapeau** » Wed Oct 18, 2017 6:19 am

I do wish I was capable of this sort of thing. I wouldn't trust myself, or know where to begin

....

Eddy Matthews · Post by **Eddy Matthews** » Wed Oct 18, 2017 7:52 am

Nice post, will follow it with interest...

Been thinking of ditching the CDV on my Z4 2.0 - I'm tired of the kangaroo like take up when trying to pull away quickly in 1st gear, and the notchy change into 2nd. I believe that removing the CDV cures both of these issues?

I only need to figure out how to get the car far enough up of the ground to get at it, as my trolley jack is too high to get under the car and ramps are useless as the car is too low to drive up onto them

Regards
Eddy

jamie_z4 · Post by **jamie_z4** » Wed Oct 18, 2017 8:16 am

kicking myself I didn't buy it n then just get you to fix it for almost free! As others have said its in good hands and good luck with it m8

tomscott · Post by **tomscott** » Wed Oct 18, 2017 8:38 am

Do love reading a fix up project

dhobbs · Post by **dhobbs** » Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:00 am

Mine has the dreaded ABS pump codes. Given mine to an independent to fix, I did mention to use ECU testing rather than replace the pump. They say it's quite common.

Keep up the good work. Always good reading a project post, gives me a bit a of enthusiasm to do stuff myself, just replaced my springs and shocks helped by this forum.

Marlon · Post by **Marlon** » Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:08 am

Great thread - really enjoying it, soon there won't be any job you can't do on a Zed. Had to laugh fixing the roof motor on the guys drive before you left

So come on spill the beans Mike - how much did you pay for it?

scooobydont · Post by **scooobydont** » Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:09 am

Any idea what the marks on the hood are? I have a few that look exactly like that and no idea how to get shot of them.

Ducklakeview · Post by **Ducklakeview** » Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:31 am

scooobydont wrote: ↑Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:09 am Any idea what the marks on the hood are? I have a few that look exactly like that and no idea how to get shot of them.

Rubbing marks where the material rubs against itself when folded. I have a couple on the 3.0 too. Dying prob won't get rid, as the actual fibre of the material is changed slightly.

Mike

Ducklakeview · Post by **Ducklakeview** » Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:35 am

Eddy Matthews wrote: ↑Wed Oct 18, 2017 7:52 am Nice post, will follow it with interest...

Been thinking of ditching the CDV on my Z4 2.0 - I'm tired of the kangaroo like take up when trying to pull away quickly in 1st gear, and the notchy change into 2nd. I believe that removing the CDV cures both of these issues?

I only need to figure out how to get the car far enough up of the ground to get at it, as my trolley jack is too high to get under the car and ramps are useless as the car is too low to drive up onto them

Regards
Eddy

CDV removal really has made a massive difference to the drive. Just done a spirited 40 mile round trip to a cash & carry, and it's a different, better car altogether.

Just use a plank of 1" plywood about 5" wide and 18" long. knock a couple of nails through one end and place that end onto the 2nd rung of your ramps. Car will then go up them. I use these, when I CBA putting stuff on the lift, had dozens of Zeds up on them front rear - £12 from Ebay, called "Ramp Mate's"..

: 20160723_174218.jpg (158.19 KiB) Viewed 1410 times

Mike

Ducklakeview · Post by **Ducklakeview** » Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:51 am

As it was annoying me last night, I decided to have a quick look at why the driver's door would lock from the remote, but not unlock..

I could hear the central locking motor activating in the door when pressing unlock, so decided (at 11pm) to whip the door card off and take a quick peek.

Door membrane still as it left the factory, so no one had been in there previously. Moved the door catch into the closed position and gave it a try on the remote - NOW it was working.. At this point the door button was hanging down, as it does when the door card is removed. So I held it upright in it's "normal" position and operated the remote again, this time it locked, but DIDN'T unlock.. Hmm... Noticed there was a square rubber bung stuck on the door panel, just near the bottom of the rod with the pin on top, I presume to stop rattling. However, I could see that the bung had moved as it had left a "trail" of adhesive... As such, it was resting against the rod then the lock was in the closed position..

I pulled it off and the rod dropped a touch, into the "fully locked" position, quick tap on the remote and it unlocked perfectly.

What was happening, is that the bung was stopping the rod from reaching the fully locked position, and as such when unlocking, the motor wasn't activating as it was "midway" between it's states, if that makes sense.

So, bung repositioned with new trim tape, after cleaning off old adhesive, and door back together and working perfectly.

I do like a cheap and free fix, one more thing crossed off the list..

Mike

Ducklakeview · Post by **Ducklakeview** » Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:55 am

kis wrote: ↑Wed Oct 18, 2017 12:28 am Nice little project. Like Jamie said it's annoying how easy you make it look!!

Interesting comment about it feeling much better than the M54. I thought I've seen posts where you've renewed most parts? Bushes and the like? Why do you think it feels noticeably better?

Look forward to more updates!

I think it's down to the weight, mine is a 3.0 auto, so prob a good couple hundred kilos heavier. Plus, I reckon they have changed the spring/damper rates on the facelift...

It's only the "ride" that feels better, the drivetrain on the M54 is miles better, and as for levels of grip/traction, they are chalk and cheese, esp with mine having the LSD. It has surprised me however, just how easy it is to spin the rears on the 2.0.

Mike

Ducklakeview · Post by **Ducklakeview** » Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:57 am

enzed4 wrote: ↑Wed Oct 18, 2017 12:43 am Something to get your teeth into, Mike . Looking good so far. I don't see any plans for those notoriously difficult to refurb split rims. What are you hoping to do with them - refurb or replace?
Edit - also, have never seen half-leather M Sport seats, didn't know they were an option.

Just milling over the options on the 108's now. They aren't the worst I've seem, BUT I want the car to be right, and I think having them split and re-done in OEM colours is the way to go, and also removes potential "haggling room" once I decide to sell it. I always think a "fully" sorted car, in need of nothing and backed up with lots of history, and even a page like this will sell well.

I'll have the tyres removed and split them myself before getting them dipped/repaired and powdercoated.

Mike

blackabbot · Post by **blackabbot** » Wed Oct 18, 2017 7:28 pm

Great thread Mike,

Ducklakeview · Post by **Ducklakeview** » Wed Oct 18, 2017 7:38 pm

One thing I have decided after driving this 2.0, is that my 3.0 IS suffering from the "sticky steering" issue... Never really bothered me before, just thought that "they were all like that" BUT after driving the 2.0 for a few days, the steering on it is much smoother and less "fidgety" than the 3.0..

So, one more job to do on mine, and I'll be taking the "adjusting the motor" route, rather than the "drill and lube" one..

Mike

Smartbear · Post by **Smartbear** » Wed Oct 18, 2017 7:47 pm

Ducklakeview wrote: ↑Wed Oct 18, 2017 7:38 pm One thing I have decided after driving this 2.0, is that my 3.0 IS suffering from the "sticky steering" issue... Never really bothered me before, just thought that "they were all like that" BUT after driving the 2.0 for a few days, the steering on it is much smoother and less "fidgety" than the 3.0..

So, one more job to do on mine, and I'll be taking the "adjusting the motor" route, rather than the "drill and lube" one..

Mike

I think the facelift cars had revised steering, you don’t here of so many cases of sticky steering happening to them

Rob

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