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VANOS

2003 - 2009, roadster, coupe, facelift
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Paulr
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VANOS

Post by Paulr » Wed Dec 06, 2017 11:05 pm

Thanks for the replies, I work on the theory that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!
If you try and take a cat apart the first thing you have is a non working cat.

LordOxygen

VANOS

Post by LordOxygen » Thu Dec 07, 2017 3:48 pm

Paulr wrote: Wed Dec 06, 2017 11:05 pm Thanks for the replies, I work on the theory that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!
Same here.

Subjectively I think my car pulls well through the mid band, esp for an NA engine. Id want to drive a manual 3.0se with a refreshed vanos to know what im missing before doing the job.

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Rusky
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Post by Rusky » Thu Dec 07, 2017 10:54 pm

LordOxygen wrote: Thu Dec 07, 2017 3:48 pm
Paulr wrote: Wed Dec 06, 2017 11:05 pm Thanks for the replies, I work on the theory that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!
Same here.

Subjectively I think my car pulls well through the mid band, esp for an NA engine. Id want to drive a manual 3.0se with a refreshed vanos to know what im missing before doing the job.
James once i get mine done i will take you ojt for a spin mate. :thumbsup:
3.0l Silver SMG, whippy and ginge fringe/ Sound gen mod/ Media bridge fitted (bluetooth and audio streaming) / Clear third break light/ Hard Top/ Eibachs springs and DLV back box/ Roof motor in the boot/ plus lots more.

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Ducklakeview
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Post by Ducklakeview » Fri Dec 08, 2017 12:22 am

Paulr wrote: Wed Dec 06, 2017 11:05 pm Thanks for the replies, I work on the theory that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!
Ah, but technically it is broke, but you just don't realise :?

Mike

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TomK
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Post by TomK » Fri Dec 08, 2017 12:38 am

So does the VANOS test in DIS not really tell you whether it's working correctly?
MC[IB], CSL airbox, Schrick 288/280 cams, 4.44FD, UUC SSK, SS race cat back, AP CP9660[F]/5144[R] brakes, Apex ARC-8 with AR-1 or PS5, KW ClubSport 2-way, Turner spherical arms, PMC uniball rtab, VB engine mounts, Rogue pulleys & RSMs, Tillett B6, half cage

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Post by Ducklakeview » Fri Dec 08, 2017 12:48 am

TomK wrote: Fri Dec 08, 2017 12:38 am So does the VANOS test in DIS not really tell you whether it's working correctly?
Not used DIS for testing as my launch has a specific test procedure for it so can't say. I would assume it's basically the same, but the launch combines the monitoring and activations in the same screen and gives a pass/fail rather than just figures.

Mike

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TomK
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Post by TomK » Fri Dec 08, 2017 12:54 am

So if it passes you don't do the work I guess? Just seems to me that if anyone is concerned whether their vanos is working correctly, plug your laptop in and run the test, it's what BMW would do if you took it to them. Takes 10 mins and would save a wasted journey :? From recollection DIS gives pass/fail and figures.
MC[IB], CSL airbox, Schrick 288/280 cams, 4.44FD, UUC SSK, SS race cat back, AP CP9660[F]/5144[R] brakes, Apex ARC-8 with AR-1 or PS5, KW ClubSport 2-way, Turner spherical arms, PMC uniball rtab, VB engine mounts, Rogue pulleys & RSMs, Tillett B6, half cage

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MACK
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Post by MACK » Sat Dec 09, 2017 9:26 am

I'd did my first vanos fix must be heading towards a decade ago on an E46. Its a bit easier on them, more clearance etc. I did it because I found some soft codes for vanos issues in my wife's 330i. I found the codes and did a bit if digging and basically found Besian systems site. Bought their kit and was thinking "will I really notice a difference?" I did and the codes went from the ecu etc.
I would advise anyone to do it but it's not a necessity like say a knackered coil pack etc. You could easily leave it to it gives a issue which it may never do. Only thing I would say is that your probably driving around with mid range torque akin to a 2.5 or even a 2.2 leaves the factory with if you have a 3.0 and progressive less on the smaller M54 engines. Dont get me wrong it's not night and day like remapping a turbo but its definitly noticeable. Worth doing especially on any M54 if your handy with the spanners and these days there are vendors in the UK selling the kit and the other gaskets etc don't cost the earth. You can basically do this fix yourself for circa £100 depending on the parts you use and where you buy or any trade discounts etc
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davros
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Post by davros » Sat Dec 09, 2017 11:19 am

I’d really like to have a go at this but space looks very tight to get the vanos out :thumbsdown: I’ve read some people have loosened the bolts on the front engine brace and moved it slightly forward to gain some space. Would this be necessary or is there an easier way to gain some extra room to remove the vanos?
3.0i E85 Sterling Grey, Infinitas supercharger, Aero sills, xenons, pro hi-fi with dsp & nav, power fold mirrors. B12 kit, Eisenmann backbox, //M-Sport Seats, carbon dash, cruise and more mods in near future...... :)

LordOxygen

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Post by LordOxygen » Sun Dec 10, 2017 9:03 pm

davros wrote: Sat Dec 09, 2017 11:19 am I’d really like to have a go at this but space looks very tight to get the vanos out :thumbsdown: I’ve read some people have loosened the bolts on the front engine brace and moved it slightly forward to gain some space. Would this be necessary or is there an easier way to gain some extra room to remove the vanos?
I asked a similar question earlier in the thread. You have to losen the engine mounts and jack the block up to get access

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davros
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Post by davros » Mon Dec 11, 2017 12:03 am

Ah right, yep cheers LordOxygen :thumbsup: Ive just seen your original post. Jacking up the block sounds a bit daunting. I guess you have to remove the engine tray to get to the mounts. BMW certainly like to make things challenging... :(
3.0i E85 Sterling Grey, Infinitas supercharger, Aero sills, xenons, pro hi-fi with dsp & nav, power fold mirrors. B12 kit, Eisenmann backbox, //M-Sport Seats, carbon dash, cruise and more mods in near future...... :)

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Post by Stevepj » Mon May 07, 2018 5:36 pm

I'm planning on changing the seals on my 2.5 in the near future and just wondered whether folks opted for kits with or without the anti-rattle rings.
Engine doesn't make any sort of noise to indicate that there might be some wear in there that needs dealing with.
Not even sure if the seals need replacing but as I'm taking the cam cover off along with the inlet manifold and CCV valve for a small oil leak I might as well do the seals while it's all apart.
Cheers
Steve
So this is where I write about the car? 2003 E85 2.5i, sterling grey, red leather, 106s with Goodyear Eagle F1s, factory xenons, folding mirrors, cup holders, retrofit cruise control, Bilstein B4's all round. And a whippy!

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Ducklakeview
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Post by Ducklakeview » Mon May 07, 2018 5:38 pm

You don't need the rattle rings unless you are running aggressive cams, ie not OEM.

Mike

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Stevepj
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Post by Stevepj » Mon May 07, 2018 5:40 pm

Cheers Mike, I'll get the above done and then I need to book in with you for some preventative roof magic.

Steve
So this is where I write about the car? 2003 E85 2.5i, sterling grey, red leather, 106s with Goodyear Eagle F1s, factory xenons, folding mirrors, cup holders, retrofit cruise control, Bilstein B4's all round. And a whippy!

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