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VANOS

2003 - 2009, roadster, coupe, facelift
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ph001
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Post by ph001 » Tue Dec 05, 2017 2:25 pm

brillomaster wrote: Tue Dec 05, 2017 2:00 pm I may have missed this somewhere in the thread, but how do you know if this needs doing or not? I've just bought a 2003 E85 with the 3.0 engine, which has now done 148,000 miles.... however, the previous owner was a mechanic, so theres every possibility its already been done if its a relatively straightforward job for a mechanic.

The car drives fine I think, but if theres an extra 30lbft of torque I could have in the midrange, that would definitely be worth doing!

Only thing I can add is that there is a noticeable change in sound at about 5000rpm, which I presume is something coming 'on cam' so to speak - should this kick happen lower down the rev range or something?
Dyno run is the only way really (hub dyno preferably) alongside another identical car. The change in engine note around 5k rpm is more the sound resonator than anything else.
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Post by brillomaster » Tue Dec 05, 2017 2:31 pm

and also how much lost torque are we talking about? if its 10-20lbft then I probably wouldn't worry as long as the top end power is still there, but if its 30+ then it might be worth considering. Anyone got and dyno plots from before and after they've had a Vanos unit repaired?

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Post by ph001 » Tue Dec 05, 2017 3:57 pm

I think some of the diag software can also test VANOS operation. I would guess 20-30lb ft or so.
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Post by Ducklakeview » Tue Dec 05, 2017 4:15 pm

brillomaster wrote: Tue Dec 05, 2017 2:00 pm I may have missed this somewhere in the thread, but how do you know if this needs doing or not? I've just bought a 2003 E85 with the 3.0 engine, which has now done 148,000 miles.... however, the previous owner was a mechanic, so theres every possibility its already been done if its a relatively straightforward job for a mechanic.

The car drives fine I think, but if theres an extra 30lbft of torque I could have in the midrange, that would definitely be worth doing!

Only thing I can add is that there is a noticeable change in sound at about 5000rpm, which I presume is something coming 'on cam' so to speak - should this kick happen lower down the rev range or something?
Yes it will need doing. The Vanos provides the torque all between 2000 and 5000 rpm. It can be tested.

Mike

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Post by TomK » Tue Dec 05, 2017 6:03 pm

ph001 wrote: Tue Dec 05, 2017 3:57 pm I think some of the diag software can also test VANOS operation. I would guess 20-30lb ft or so.
I'm not sure for the 3.0 but for the S54 in DIS there is a VANOS test routine that will check for anything out of spec. Takes 5 minutes and makes sense to do that before doing work that might not be needed I would have thought.
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Post by MACK » Tue Dec 05, 2017 6:18 pm

brillomaster wrote: Tue Dec 05, 2017 2:00 pm I may have missed this somewhere in the thread, but how do you know if this needs doing or not? I've just bought a 2003 E85 with the 3.0 engine, which has now done 148,000 miles.... however, the previous owner was a mechanic, so theres every possibility its already been done if its a relatively straightforward job for a mechanic.

The car drives fine I think, but if theres an extra 30lbft of torque I could have in the midrange, that would definitely be worth doing!

Only thing I can add is that there is a noticeable change in sound at about 5000rpm, which I presume is something coming 'on cam' so to speak - should this kick happen lower down the rev range or something?
Google besian systems and vanos there's a lot of good info on there including a how to. However it's cheaper to buy the actual parts from the likes of i6automotive or eBay this side of the pond. Have never seen one that's actually had a running issue so to speak due to vanos. however I have seen soft codes in the ecu (codes that don't flag an eml). Done 4 now personally and there's been a noticeable difference on all 4. All were smoother and torqueier as a result. Dont get me wrong its not like a remap on turbo but its certainly noticable. Youll get slightly better mpg too, nothing dramatic 1 to 2 mpg at most. Mileages ranged from 50k upwards on the ones I have done. Its not a particularly well know repair so my money would be on them need doing as most haven't heard of it, but the job itself isnt massively complicated. If your handy with the spanners 3 to 4 hours at home.
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Post by Ducklakeview » Tue Dec 05, 2017 9:24 pm

ph001 wrote: Tue Dec 05, 2017 3:57 pm I think some of the diag software can also test VANOS operation. I would guess 20-30lb ft or so.
Yes, you can test operation whilst the engine is running by activating the solenoids and comparing the "requested" timing advance against the "actual" not sure on the torque lost in actual ftlb, but it is a fair chunk imo.

Mike

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Post by dhobbs » Tue Dec 05, 2017 9:32 pm

I see from earlier that the N52 was a redesign of the parts, do they still wear out and need repairing?

I ask as mine has done 100k and the chance of getting 30lb ft is tempting
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Post by Ducklakeview » Tue Dec 05, 2017 9:37 pm

dhobbs wrote: Tue Dec 05, 2017 9:32 pm I see from earlier that the N52 was a redesign of the parts, do they still wear out and need repairing?

I ask as mine has done 100k and the chance of getting 30lb ft is tempting
N52 doesn't suffer as the seals are of the later material, it DOES have it's own foibles though :D

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Post by jamie_z4 » Tue Dec 05, 2017 9:47 pm

Having driven Mike's car I can definatley see a noticable difference in mid range torque, not quite a fair comparison as mines a manual with no backbox so I imagine the lack of backbox will be robbing some power also Mike's is on 70k mine is on 147k so the seals I imagine are well past their best though.

Will be going to an independent garage though to have mine done, f**k Mike he's well overpriced :fuelfire:
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Post by Truth » Wed Dec 06, 2017 9:32 am

jamie_z4 wrote: Tue Dec 05, 2017 9:47 pm Having driven Mike's car I can definatley see a noticable difference in mid range torque, not quite a fair comparison as mines a manual with no backbox so I imagine the lack of backbox will be robbing some power also Mike's is on 70k mine is on 147k so the seals I imagine are well past their best though.

Will be going to an independent garage though to have mine done, f**k Mike he's well overpriced :fuelfire:

You’re not bigging up mikes car are u?

U know that’s not allowed.
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Post by jamie_z4 » Wed Dec 06, 2017 12:40 pm

Truth wrote: Wed Dec 06, 2017 9:32 am
jamie_z4 wrote: Tue Dec 05, 2017 9:47 pm Having driven another forum members car I can definatley see a noticable difference in mid range torque, not quite a fair comparison as mines a manual with no backbox so I imagine the lack of backbox will be robbing some power - mine is on 147k so the seals I imagine are well past their best though.

Will be going to an independent garage though to have mine done, f**k Mike he's well overpriced :fuelfire:

You’re not bigging up mikes car are u?

U know that’s not allowed.
Amended post to suit :?
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Post by Paulr » Wed Dec 06, 2017 2:12 pm

So if it was never done, and you don't hammer around all the time, will it make much difference? Nothing will fall off and damage other things? The car will not conk out at all? No consequential damage to the engine etc? It just feels duller mid range, and will continue to do so without affecting reliability or running, is that correct?
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Post by Ducklakeview » Wed Dec 06, 2017 2:24 pm

Paulr wrote: Wed Dec 06, 2017 2:12 pm So if it was never done, and you don't hammer around all the time, will it make much difference? Nothing will fall off and damage other things? The car will not conk out at all? No consequential damage to the engine etc? It just feels duller mid range, and will continue to do so without affecting reliability or running, is that correct?
No, it'll just remain "flat" from 2k-5k, although I have known them to rattle a bit on startup, presumably due to the vanos pistons touching the bores with zero oil pressure as the engine is cranked, which is one of the symptoms the OP had. Some people have also reported a rough idle on other forums, which went away when they were done.

Mike

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Post by MACK » Wed Dec 06, 2017 9:14 pm

Paulr wrote: Wed Dec 06, 2017 2:12 pm So if it was never done, and you don't hammer around all the time, will it make much difference? Nothing will fall off and damage other things? The car will not conk out at all? No consequential damage to the engine etc? It just feels duller mid range, and will continue to do so without affecting reliability or running, is that correct?
Yes,
Basically if your happy with your car as it is then it should be just fine. Its more a case of being blissfully unaware of what your missing.
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