New suspension arms?

[JPB]

Hi guys,
I have a 2003 pre-facelift manual transmission Z4. After getting a lot of twitchiness in the steering for a while now (wheels seem to pull steering around a fair bit) I've taken it to the garage who say the rear wishbone bushes are shot and front wishbone ball joints need doing. They're recommended new suspension arms for £566 + VAT. They've told me that there's no play in the steering column, itself.

My question is: does this fix normally sort out the steering issues I'm describing above? (obviously there's a lot of factors, but generally?)
Also: what suspension arms do you recommend?

[mjennings23]

Certainly could be the cause, if the bushes are shot it allows the arm to move too much which would shift the wheel hub, leading to that loose feeling and constant corrections.

I changed mine myself for Meyle HD parts, about £200 for a set that included drop links too. It's a reasonably simple diy job if you're handy with basic tools, the only hard bit can be breaking the ball joint out of the hub where it's spent the last 14 years getting sprayed with water off the wheels!

[JPB]

Certainly could be the cause, if the bushes are shot it allows the arm to move too much which would shift the wheel hub, leading to that loose feeling and constant corrections.

I changed mine myself for Meyle HD parts, about £200 for a set that included drop links too. It's a reasonably simple diy job if you're handy with basic tools, the only hard bit can be breaking the ball joint out of the hub where it's spent the last 14 years getting sprayed with water off the wheels!

That's good to hear. Sounds like it might be them, then.

£200 sounds good - I've got no tools or jack etc so will need garage to sort them. Do you think £566 is a reasonable price? I assume it's for all four plus labour (not sure if inclusive of VAT actually).

[mjennings23]

I think it's a bit on the high side to be honest if it's just changing the wishbones. I did it on jack stands lying on my back in 4 hours, including the full hour spent trying to break out the hub ball joint. On a ramp and with air tools/torches for helping split the joint I wouldn't expect anything more than 2, maybe 2.5 hours labour.

Of course that price might also include an alignment, as that ideally needs doing after changing any suspension components

[Scooba_Steve]

My arms took about 2 hours total on stands including splitting one joint with a fork and large sledge hammer... Seems steep if that's without an alignment, if it's with then depends how much for that.

[JPB]

Quick update: I got the garage to fit new control arms to the front. Lemforder arms and bushes, I calculated cost plus their labour time and it seemed about right so figured I'd get it done. The ride is a lot better now, but my problem still persists.

Now it pulls to the left quite a bit and occasionally seems to free up back to normal, but then pulls again. Has anyone else experienced this problem? I'm having a search through the forum now, but there's so many variables it's hard to know what to look at next.

[mjennings23]

Check for a binding brake caliper if it's pulling like that. Go for a drive and when you stop, if it's binding you'll soon feel the heat from the disk when you put your hand near. If the left disk is hot and the right one isn't its a bad caliper.

Beyond that, rear trailing arm bushes would be a guess but they tend to have a knocking over bumps too. You'll notice it more on throttle too, and less so when coasting as there's no torque going through the axle.

[Chris1981]

Check for a binding brake caliper if it's pulling like that. Go for a drive and when you stop, if it's binding you'll soon feel the heat from the disk when you put your hand near. If the left disk is hot and the right one isn't its a bad caliper.

Beyond that, rear trailing arm bushes would be a guess but they tend to have a knocking over bumps too. You'll notice it more on throttle too, and less so when coasting as there's no torque going through the axle.

Yeah I'd be looking at brakes too if it was intermittent... I would think any suspension issue pulling to the left or right would be permanent.

[Scooba_Steve]

Was the front aligned? Go for a drive and use the brakes a bit, if one is binding it will be hotter than the other.

[JPB]

Thanks for thoughts guys. I've had the brakes replaced since I got the car so I'm not sure it would be that, but then again I haven't specifically cleaned the calipers so that's worth a try.

However, when I'm stationary I'll turn the wheel left and right quickly and feel a knocking in the steering wheel. It's as if there's a bit of metal I'm hitting back and forth. This, plus the steering issue at any speed, regardless of braking/accelerating/coasting makes me think it isn't to do with the bushes or braking. I think it's something to do with the steering system itself.

Anyone else had this issue?

[Scooba_Steve]

Do you feel anything through the wheel or just hear it? Drop links can cause a knock, front tension struts and the large undertray can do the same if not tight. As the arms have been off the undertray could have a bolt slightly loose, if you're able to get under I can dig out the torque settings, I remember them being pretty high.

[skelters]

Check the tyre pressure all round.

Get the wheels balanced and a Hunter Alignment done.

[Ducklakeview]

Sorry, but firstly you need to find a better garage. Almost £700 for the work you have had done is nothing short of extortion.

Any garage worth their salt would have diagnosed the problem properly rather than jump in at the deep and expensive end.

I can't comment on the fault without seeing the car, but my advice is listen to what's being suggested by others.

Mike