Tie rod ends

Sharpy1975 · Post by **Sharpy1975** » Sat May 13, 2017 6:00 pm

Evening chaps.

Little bit of help needed. So I've had a slight vibration when braking and high speeds. New lollipop bushes helped, but it's still there. Anyway, today I noticed some knocking over bumps and the same knocking if I wiggle the steering wheel. I can feel a vibration through the right tie rod end, and i can twist both rods quite easy........would worn tie rod ends cause a knocking over bumps.

I did try and change the right sway bar today but need to get a skinny spanner as the nut kept turning.....nothing is as easy as it seems - lol.

I might add there was no knocking before I attempted to change the sway bar. I guess I could have broken it by twisting the nut and not locking the other side?

Sharpy1975 · Post by **Sharpy1975** » Sat May 13, 2017 6:52 pm

Update: I think it's the sway bar. Just bounced the car up and down and the same sound. I Still think my tie rod ends are shot though, surely should not be able to twist them easy and the is defo a knocking when wobbling the wheel stationary - although this might be normal. If some could check this on there's I would really appreciate it....may aswell get them changed at the same time. Cheers

Tcochrane92 · Post by **Tcochrane92** » Sat May 13, 2017 7:29 pm

If its a worn balljoint on the track rod, it will cause knocking
To test, grab the track rod and try to move it up and down. If you can see any movement at all in the balljoint (might see the rubber gaiter moving), then its worn and needs replacing

Hope that helps

Sharpy1975 · Post by **Sharpy1975** » Sat May 13, 2017 8:30 pm

Hiya....cheets for the reply. The knocking is coming from the sway bar I broke

Can't seem to move the tie rod end up or down but I can twist the actual bar easy. This might explain the light steering wobble at speed and braking.

Tcochrane92 · Post by **Tcochrane92** » Sat May 13, 2017 9:13 pm

Twisting the bar is normal (that's sort of how balljoints work

)

Steve84N · Post by **Steve84N** » Sat May 13, 2017 9:25 pm

Yes, but it should be stiff to turn. Easy to turn means it's worn down the surfaces somewhat so is in line to be replaced.

Tcochrane92 · Post by **Tcochrane92** » Sat May 13, 2017 9:36 pm

Other way round, Steve. If it's easy to turn, it means it's properly lubricated (with grease). First twist might be a bit difficult - breakaway torque. But running torque shouldn't be high.
If it's stiff (running torque), it means the grease is contaminated, gone (leaked out), or the ball has corrosion

P.s. I'm a steering systems engineer at a major British oem

Sharpy1975 · Post by **Sharpy1975** » Sat May 13, 2017 9:47 pm

Should there be any knocking? Or vibration through the tie rod when wobbling the steering when the car is stationary but running. Maybe the outer rod is ok, but the inner rod is worn?? I guess this would explain the slight vibration when driving and bracking.

Really appreciate you help guys.

Tcochrane92 · Post by **Tcochrane92** » Sat May 13, 2017 9:58 pm

Sharpy1975 wrote: ↑Sat May 13, 2017 9:47 pm Should there be any knocking? Or vibration through the tie rod when wobbling the steering when the car is stationary but running. Maybe the outer rod is ok, but the inner rod is worn?? I guess this would explain the slight vibration when driving and bracking.

Really appreciate you help guys.

There shouldn't be any knocking from the outer tie rod (where it attaches to the knuckle)
What do you mean by wobbling the steering?

The tie rod attaches to the steering rack via an internal thread and lock nut. Check the lock nut is torqued up correctly (I don't know the correct torque, but should be around 100Nm)

Also check the torque on the balljoint to knuckle lock nut

But the most common source of vibration when driving is incorrectly weighted wheels, then alignment issues.
If you've checked those, I'd then check the suspension bushes are OK (jack up the car and check for play in the wheel) i.e. can you move it from side to side? If yes, then knackered bushes
Then I'd check the tie rod balljoint

Vibration when braking is commonly caused by warped brake discs. Check the area of wear on your brake discs, it should be uniform where the pads meet the discs

I know that's a lot to take in.. but hope it helps

Steve84N · Post by **Steve84N** » Sun May 14, 2017 8:57 am

Tcochrane92 wrote: ↑Sat May 13, 2017 9:36 pm Other way round, Steve. If it's easy to turn, it means it's properly lubricated (with grease). First twist might be a bit difficult - breakaway torque. But running torque shouldn't be high.
If it's stiff (running torque), it means the grease is contaminated, gone (leaked out), or the ball has corrosion

P.s. I'm a steering systems engineer at a major British oem

I agree with you on the whole, a new tie rod is very stiff on breakaway then moves smoothly but still requires some force. I've felt my old tie rods and they were easier to turn so they were worn but not corroded. I guess there will be some that are seized up too because of corrosion and contamination but some just get looser.
PS: I've felt both tie rods in reality and have an engineering degree.

Sharpy1975 · Post by **Sharpy1975** » Sun May 14, 2017 12:05 pm

They do seem to move easy....i don't think changing the sway bar and ARB will help with the small steering wheel vibration so I may aswell get the rods changed at the same time. Starline assembly kit is just over £80, not too bad.

Sharpy1975 · Post by **Sharpy1975** » Sat May 20, 2017 11:47 am

All sorted.....changed ARB bushes, sway bar and track rod ends all for £80 fitted. What a difference, car feels so much tighter front end now.

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Tie rod ends

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