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Custom Cruise Control Loom

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HyperGrade
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Custom Cruise Control Loom

Post by HyperGrade » Wed Aug 09, 2017 11:42 pm

Interest!
2nd Z4, Auction find, 2007 3.0si Sport, 45k, Silver Grey, 224 Alloys. Retro Cruise :thumbsup:
Previous: 2003, 2.5i Sport, Sterling Grey (2006-2010)

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Mark-Z4
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Post by Mark-Z4 » Thu Aug 10, 2017 3:04 pm

Add me to the list please. :)
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Lewy
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Post by Lewy » Thu Aug 10, 2017 9:40 pm

I'm new on here and just got referred here as my first post was a question about this; unfortunately/fortunately (depending how you look at it) I just picked up the BMW loom today. I didn't get a response for a whIle so looked into it and got the install instructions printed off by one of the techs at BMW cooper thames ditton.
I'm not so au fait with how to use this forum but if there's a way to upload a PDF, I could scan them and do so.

The loom is really not many wires but is more about the conectors. If you solder the two in behind the light fitting you would negate the need for most of these. As someone pointed out in another post, if you want the clip in terminations that slide into the connector blocks, you can order parts #61130006663 priced to me at £2.42 or apparently #61130005197. The former is a longer wire the the connector on the end and the latter a shorter one I think.

I have just acquired a 2005 M54 3.0iSE. I'll be fitting mine this weekend all going well.

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Post by Lewy » Thu Aug 10, 2017 9:54 pm

Given that everyone on this thread is likely to own post 04 cars, it may be worth asking - does anyone have the retrofit instructions for the heated seat loom which is discontinued? I've left a request at the dealers today so they may come back but I figure, prior to the loom being discontinued, someone must have got a printout. If I can't get an old loom, I figure I could use the instructions to make one.

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stevo///m3
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Post by stevo///m3 » Fri Aug 11, 2017 2:55 pm

srhutch wrote: Wed Aug 09, 2017 9:21 pm
Fogwan1983 wrote: Wed Aug 09, 2017 9:02 pm Definitely interested. Once again, idiot proof guide would be appreciated please bud. :thumbsup:
The OEM guide plus my instructions will be provided. Starting production on Friday. Liking to bring some to zed fest and will be contacting those that shown an interest in the next few days.
Hi Steve,
I've managed to completely miss this thread...
I'm interested in this and will also be at ZFest, will bring my wallet! :thumbsup:
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Magicarcher
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Post by Magicarcher » Fri Aug 11, 2017 5:00 pm

Lewy wrote: Thu Aug 10, 2017 9:40 pm The loom is really not many wires but is more about the conectors. If you solder the two in behind the light fitting you would negate the need for most of these.
I would recommend against soldering, under vibration (which Zeds have quite a bit of, especially on runflats) it can stress fracture where the copper meets the edge of the solder. A better option is an inline splice and heat shrinking (personally I prefer glue filled shrink sleeving for greater mechanical integrity. For inline splices see here: http://www.te.com/usa-en/products/termi ... =pgp-story
Z4 3.0L 2005. Titan Silver. Audio Upgrade Second Stereo Pioneer X8700DAB, Sony Xplode 4 x 70W Amp, 6.5" Reckhorn Subs in rear cubby, Focal AS165-3 in fronts.

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Post by Lewy » Fri Aug 11, 2017 9:47 pm

Ok thanks for the tip and the link. Do they sell to the public? I can use the connectors I got with the kit for now but it will be useful if I manage to get the instructions for the heated seat loom. :thumbsup:

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Magicarcher
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Post by Magicarcher » Sun Aug 13, 2017 11:06 am

Lewy wrote: Fri Aug 11, 2017 9:47 pm Ok thanks for the tip and the link. Do they sell to the public? I can use the connectors I got with the kit for now but it will be useful if I manage to get the instructions for the heated seat loom. :thumbsup:
You are unlikely to be able to get from TE, they are a manufacturer and are likely to sell in bulk. You can get them from Farnell though:

http://uk.farnell.com/w/c/connectors/cr ... ?st=splice

I use open barrel splices. You will need a decent crimp tool. One of the best is the TE hand crimper https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00DWIFMBE/ ... 80XNR8VT7C but a little pricey. Slightly cheaper is a Japanese crimp tool https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00 ... UTF8&psc=1. The crimp form is not quite as good as the Tyco, but perfectly acceptable. I would avoid the cheap ratchet crimps that can be picked up for £20. The anvils are seldom well formed and in my experience that produce poor crimps (they are also not easy to use with small terminals). They can end up distorting the wires which causes knecking of individual strands, the strands can then fracture under vibration.
Z4 3.0L 2005. Titan Silver. Audio Upgrade Second Stereo Pioneer X8700DAB, Sony Xplode 4 x 70W Amp, 6.5" Reckhorn Subs in rear cubby, Focal AS165-3 in fronts.

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Post by mfrancis » Sun Aug 13, 2017 1:00 pm

Magicarcher wrote: Fri Aug 11, 2017 5:00 pm
Lewy wrote: Thu Aug 10, 2017 9:40 pm The loom is really not many wires but is more about the conectors. If you solder the two in behind the light fitting you would negate the need for most of these.
I would recommend against soldering, under vibration (which Zeds have quite a bit of, especially on runflats) it can stress fracture where the copper meets the edge of the solder. A better option is an inline splice and heat shrinking (personally I prefer glue filled shrink sleeving for greater mechanical integrity. For inline splices see here: http://www.te.com/usa-en/products/termi ... =pgp-story
Apologies if this sounds controversial but did you not suggest buying the preterminated crimps on fly leads and then soldering to them in a previous post?
I was always led to believe that a solder joint, that was done properly, was the best way of connecting copper cabling.

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Magicarcher
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Post by Magicarcher » Sun Aug 13, 2017 2:39 pm

mfrancis wrote: Sun Aug 13, 2017 1:00 pm
Magicarcher wrote: Fri Aug 11, 2017 5:00 pm
Lewy wrote: Thu Aug 10, 2017 9:40 pm The loom is really not many wires but is more about the conectors. If you solder the two in behind the light fitting you would negate the need for most of these.
I would recommend against soldering, under vibration (which Zeds have quite a bit of, especially on runflats) it can stress fracture where the copper meets the edge of the solder. A better option is an inline splice and heat shrinking (personally I prefer glue filled shrink sleeving for greater mechanical integrity. For inline splices see here: http://www.te.com/usa-en/products/termi ... =pgp-story
Apologies if this sounds controversial but did you not suggest buying the preterminated crimps on fly leads and then soldering to them in a previous post?
I was always led to believe that a solder joint, that was done properly, was the best way of connecting copper cabling.
What I was suggesting was solder sleeves, which is quite different to soldering wires together. Solder sleeves use a controlled amount of solder so it is less likely to creep up the wire, done correctly the two wires remain parallel to each other and the shrink tubing then shrinks around the wires to give some mechanical support.

The best order of selection for splicing wires IMHO is as follows:

1) Open crimp splices as I previously meant with the correct crimping tool (preferably in knowledgeable hands)
covered with shrink sleeving.
2) Solder sleeves (more appropriate if you don't have the correct crimping tools or knowledge)

The worst methods are (in order of worseness):

1) scotchlocks
2) pre-insulated terminals (those red, blue, yellow things)
3) soldering together of wires with a soldering iron
mfrancis wrote: Sun Aug 13, 2017 1:00 pm I was always led to believe that a solder joint, that was done properly, was the best way of connecting copper cabling.
I have been involved in the design and development of vehicle electrical systems since 1986 and not one of the OEMs I have worked for would condone soldering wires together. I have also seen the results of vibration testing on soldered wires that prove why they are not recommended.
Z4 3.0L 2005. Titan Silver. Audio Upgrade Second Stereo Pioneer X8700DAB, Sony Xplode 4 x 70W Amp, 6.5" Reckhorn Subs in rear cubby, Focal AS165-3 in fronts.

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srhutch
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Post by srhutch » Sun Aug 13, 2017 4:14 pm

Guys, not being funny but can you take this conversation elsewhere so I can keep this thread as clean as possible.
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Darkangelv2
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Post by Darkangelv2 » Fri Aug 18, 2017 8:01 pm

Hi srhutch

Can I go on the list to get one of these once you're producing? (N52)

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srhutch
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Post by srhutch » Sat Aug 19, 2017 1:12 pm

I will have 5 looms with me tomorrow at Zedfest. I have terminated 2 of them for S54 ///M, the others I can do on the day if somebody wants one.
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Post by 355Chris355 » Sat Aug 19, 2017 6:21 pm

Hi. I'm interested too (N52). Will be at ZedFest tomorrow too. Hopefully see you there.
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Post by PGF » Mon Aug 21, 2017 9:53 pm

I'd love one for an S54.

Thanks

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