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Battery type...a bit confused...
- ph001
- Lifer
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Battery type...a bit confused...
Don't get too caught up on the Ah or CCA matching exactly - it's not that critical. Just make sure it's the same chemistry (AGM / wet etc), the dimensions are the same and the terminal arrangement.
AGM type batteries are charged at a slightly higher voltage to wet as they tend to have a higher acid weight, so for most efficient charging your charger should have an AGM setting.
AGM type batteries are charged at a slightly higher voltage to wet as they tend to have a higher acid weight, so for most efficient charging your charger should have an AGM setting.
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Battery type...a bit confused...
Hey there, I read your inputs about all this 'registering thing for the new battery syndrome' and to be honest, I kind of agree with you. Very interesting knowledge and stuff you reasoned out there. Would you say the battery in my picture is AGM? I guess so right? I found a battery which is varta and it has the following specs: 71Ah and 770CCA. Very close to my old one that needs replacement. What do you think?ph001 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 29, 2017 6:28 pm Don't get too caught up on the Ah or CCA matching exactly - it's not that critical. Just make sure it's the same chemistry (AGM / wet etc), the dimensions are the same and the terminal arrangement.
AGM type batteries are charged at a slightly higher voltage to wet as they tend to have a higher acid weight, so for most efficient charging your charger should have an AGM setting.
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- Smartbear
- Lifer
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Battery type...a bit confused...
I thought mine charged at a higher rate than my previous zeds, it seems to sit at 14.8v when drivingph001 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 29, 2017 6:28 pm Don't get too caught up on the Ah or CCA matching exactly - it's not that critical. Just make sure it's the same chemistry (AGM / wet etc), the dimensions are the same and the terminal arrangement.
AGM type batteries are charged at a slightly higher voltage to wet as they tend to have a higher acid weight, so for most efficient charging your charger should have an AGM setting.
Rob
e89 Sdrive 20i, plenty of mumbo & good economy-the thinking bears z4
e89 Sdrive 30i, this ones busted, pass me another...
e85 3.0si sold
- ph001
- Lifer
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Battery type...a bit confused...
I'm fairly certain all the E89 are AGM. 71Ah, 770CCA is absolutely fine.4zwmb wrote: ↑Wed Nov 29, 2017 6:38 pmHey there, I read your inputs about all this 'registering thing for the new battery syndrome' and to be honest, I kind of agree with you. Very interesting knowledge and stuff you reasoned out there. Would you say the battery in my picture is AGM? I guess so right? I found a battery which is varta and it has the following specs: 71Ah and 770CCA. Very close to my old one that needs replacement. What do you think?ph001 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 29, 2017 6:28 pm Don't get too caught up on the Ah or CCA matching exactly - it's not that critical. Just make sure it's the same chemistry (AGM / wet etc), the dimensions are the same and the terminal arrangement.
AGM type batteries are charged at a slightly higher voltage to wet as they tend to have a higher acid weight, so for most efficient charging your charger should have an AGM setting.
That sounds about spot on for AGM, but it does depend on temperature a little.Smartbear wrote: ↑Wed Nov 29, 2017 6:40 pmI thought mine charged at a higher rate than my previous zeds, it seems to sit at 14.8v when drivingph001 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 29, 2017 6:28 pm Don't get too caught up on the Ah or CCA matching exactly - it's not that critical. Just make sure it's the same chemistry (AGM / wet etc), the dimensions are the same and the terminal arrangement.
AGM type batteries are charged at a slightly higher voltage to wet as they tend to have a higher acid weight, so for most efficient charging your charger should have an AGM setting.
Rob
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Battery type...a bit confused...
ph001 thanks for all the information. I think I will go and buy this battery then. I hope I wont have any troubles, I would not care that much if the battery dies sooner because of not registering it, I would be more concerned if it harms the car's electronics which in my opinion, should absolutely not.
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Battery type...a bit confused...
P.s all the cars with start-stop function have a botton near or just above the start button right? Just making sure, mine is not with start-stop function. What do you think Smartbear?
- Smartbear
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Battery type...a bit confused...
The start/stop button is next to the heated seat control by the ashtray
Rob
e89 Sdrive 20i, plenty of mumbo & good economy-the thinking bears z4
e89 Sdrive 30i, this ones busted, pass me another...
e85 3.0si sold
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Battery type...a bit confused...
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OnlineNictrix
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Battery type...a bit confused...
Im sure its only the 2.0L that have start/stop.
E89 2014 35i M Sport Black with Black leather
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- Smartbear
- Lifer
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Battery type...a bit confused...
Here you go, Rob
e89 Sdrive 20i, plenty of mumbo & good economy-the thinking bears z4
e89 Sdrive 30i, this ones busted, pass me another...
e85 3.0si sold
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Battery type...a bit confused...
Oh the off button you mean right?
- Kugaman1
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Battery type...a bit confused...
Yes its the off button.....
Ive coded mine to “remember last state” so once I turned it off, it stays off and the light is covered by a bit of black tape!
Ive coded mine to “remember last state” so once I turned it off, it stays off and the light is covered by a bit of black tape!
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- Lifer
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Battery type...a bit confused...
AGM and lead acid batteries charge differently
As a rule of thumb, if the car has IBS then it " should " be registered..it has nothing to do with stop / start capability
Put simply, as the battery degrades the IBS senses state of charge, the IBS will then try and maintain the battery to add life.. which usually means the amperage is increased to help maintain full charge.
If the new battery isn't registered then the IBS will be in the incorrect mode to receive the new battery and maintain accordingly ..
I have seen non registration cause issues, and then again some people can pop on a battery that's exactly the same and have no issues
Seeing as it's only a 5 minute job to register the battery, I always do it to avoid any issues in the future
As a rule of thumb, if the car has IBS then it " should " be registered..it has nothing to do with stop / start capability
Put simply, as the battery degrades the IBS senses state of charge, the IBS will then try and maintain the battery to add life.. which usually means the amperage is increased to help maintain full charge.
If the new battery isn't registered then the IBS will be in the incorrect mode to receive the new battery and maintain accordingly ..
I have seen non registration cause issues, and then again some people can pop on a battery that's exactly the same and have no issues
Seeing as it's only a 5 minute job to register the battery, I always do it to avoid any issues in the future