Roof issues...

[Dietcokeman]

It's clear of the front latches. I've opened the roof with the parcel shelf removed with the same outcome. It's frustrating because I want a gaptec module, but it's pointless if it doesn't work properly.

In which case it's either an obstruction, the roof not folding correctly, which it sounds like,as it does eventually go down . But it could be a hall sensor issue . When it doesn't go all the way down does the motor stop running and the windows go back up ?

Yes the motor stops and they go back up. From inside the boot, with the shelf removed, the roof gets very bunched up. It's difficult to see if it's right or wrong. I am trying to work through all possibilities but every time you try something and think to yourself that should be it fixed now, and it's not, a little part of you dies. Or is that a bit over dramatic?

Ok so when it does this, does the roof eventually sink down to the correct position ( even if it doesn't lock ) ?

[Sgr74]

In which case it's either an obstruction, the roof not folding correctly, which it sounds like,as it does eventually go down . But it could be a hall sensor issue . When it doesn't go all the way down does the motor stop running and the windows go back up ?

Yes the motor stops and they go back up. From inside the boot, with the shelf removed, the roof gets very bunched up. It's difficult to see if it's right or wrong. I am trying to work through all possibilities but every time you try something and think to yourself that should be it fixed now, and it's not, a little part of you dies. Or is that a bit over dramatic?

Ok so when it does this, does the roof eventually sink down to the correct position ( even if it doesn't lock ) ?

Yes. If I just put it down, the motor pulls it as far as it can then stops and the windows go up. You can physically see the roof rising a bit once the pressure of the motor is off. Once it's been driven for a while the roof kind of settles a bit. As in it goes down a bit more. It does sound like the fabric or hinge problem, I know, but nothing appears out of line.

[Joe4]

Quick update on mine... Pulled the motor out and ran it in a bucket of diesel for about 10 mins each way, the motor seemed to gradually increase in speed while submerged so I gave it a good run in both directions making sure it was up to full speed, then while it was off stripped down the pump to see if I could find any obstructions seized parts in the pump...gave it a clean out and a blow through with an air duster and a bit of wd40 on the Bowden valve (not sure if I should have as I'm now thinking I've contaminated my hydraulic oil). Left the pump overnight as it was getting dark when I finished.

I'm guessing I put it back together correctly as when I reinstalled in the z today the pump ran as before although also with the same problem, so I thought I'd try dietcokemans suggestion of swapping the lines over to see if the motor is pushing out enough power in both directions, however once I had swrapped the lines the motor went from working to completely dead (Attempted to power from both the car and a separate battery with jumper leads) so was unable to test this theory.

Not sure if I may have spilled some of the hydraulic oil in the motor when swapping over the lines or if the motor has just finally given up the ghost, any suggestions?

When I attempt to power the motor using an external battery (tested as good) I don't even get sparks from the battery terminals which suggests to me there is a break in the circuit somewhere in the motor, perhaps motor terminals

[Dietcokeman]

Quick update on mine... Pulled the motor out and ran it in a bucket of diesel for about 10 mins each way, the motor seemed to gradually increase in speed while submerged so I gave it a good run in both directions making sure it was up to full speed, then while it was off stripped down the pump to see if I could find any obstructions seized parts in the pump...gave it a clean out and a blow through with an air duster and a bit of wd40 on the Bowden valve (not sure if I should have as I'm now thinking I've contaminated my hydraulic oil). Left the pump overnight as it was getting dark when I finished.

I'm guessing I put it back together correctly as when I reinstalled in the z today the pump ran as before although also with the same problem, so I thought I'd try dietcokemans suggestion of swapping the lines over to see if the motor is pushing out enough power in both directions, however once I had swrapped the lines the motor went from working to completely dead (Attempted to power from both the car and a separate battery with jumper leads) so was unable to test this theory.

Not sure if I may have spilled some of the hydraulic oil in the motor when swapping over the lines or if the motor has just finally given up the ghost, any suggestions?

When I attempt to power the motor using an external battery (tested as good) I don't even get sparks from the battery terminals which suggests to me there is a break in the circuit somewhere in the motor, perhaps motor terminals

Sounds like the motor has given up the ghost for some reason , on the bottom of the motor the main shaft sticks out the base a little , this is normally enough to get a drill chuck on . You can then try spinning it with the drill. Sometimes the brushes on the motor can arc onto the armature , you could also try tapping the housing with a hammer as you try to spin it with the drill. If you get it spinning again , I suggest more diesel submerging then wipe off the excess and leave for ten minute to dry, spin a a few times out of the diesel and wrap it in foil and put it in the oven at 100 degrees for 5 mins . Also make sure the base electrical terminal are still intact, I've had at least one where the terminal has broken away after being sat in the water that collects in the original housing. In the case I was able to solder a short wire onto what was left of the terminal and remake a connection. If this doesn't cure the motor you will need to strip it to investigate or get a specialist to do it if it's beyond you . If you search your local area you should find a starter or alternator refurbished that will normally do these motors too, but get a price first , simple brush replacement shouldn't be expensive . Alternatively source a exchange motor. There is a guy on eBay that does them .

A small amount of wd won't harm the hydraulic oil .

[Dietcokeman]

Yes the motor stops and they go back up. From inside the boot, with the shelf removed, the roof gets very bunched up. It's difficult to see if it's right or wrong. I am trying to work through all possibilities but every time you try something and think to yourself that should be it fixed now, and it's not, a little part of you dies. Or is that a bit over dramatic?

Ok so when it does this, does the roof eventually sink down to the correct position ( even if it doesn't lock ) ?

Yes. If I just put it down, the motor pulls it as far as it can then stops and the windows go up. You can physically see the roof rising a bit once the pressure of the motor is off. Once it's been driven for a while the roof kind of settles a bit. As in it goes down a bit more. It does sound like the fabric or hinge problem, I know, but nothing appears out of line.

It could be a hall sensor slightly out of position . Has the motor been relocated without the roof being removed ? If so it's possible that the sensor has been slightly dislodged and isn't quite in the right position.
This would make sense as when the roof stops and is slightly raised , the hall sensor thinks it's down completely and tells the roof module it's ok the raise the windows. As gravity takes place the weight of the folding roof pushes the rest of the hydraulic fluid back down the lines into the resoviour and the roof sinks to its normal position .
You could try the following, it may work ......

The roof is mounted at the front of the frame by two bolts each side of the rear of the door pillars. If you look just behind each door rear pillar on the inside there are two round plastic trim covers that cover these bolts.with the roof up but unlatched, Remove the trims and loosen ( do not remove ) the bolts . This will give you a small amount of play in the roof mounting , try moving it back or forward , tighten and retry the roof. This is sometimes enough to align the hall sensor . Not always but it's worth a try .

[Sgr74]

Ok so when it does this, does the roof eventually sink down to the correct position ( even if it doesn't lock ) ?

Yes. If I just put it down, the motor pulls it as far as it can then stops and the windows go up. You can physically see the roof rising a bit once the pressure of the motor is off. Once it's been driven for a while the roof kind of settles a bit. As in it goes down a bit more. It does sound like the fabric or hinge problem, I know, but nothing appears out of line.

It could be a hall sensor slightly out of position . Has the motor been relocated without the roof being removed ? If so it's possible that the sensor has been slightly dislodged and isn't quite in the right position.
This would make sense as when the roof stops and is slightly raised , the hall sensor thinks it's down completely and tells the roof module it's ok the raise the windows. As gravity takes place the weight of the folding roof pushes the rest of the hydraulic fluid back down the lines into the resoviour and the roof sinks to its normal position .
You could try the following, it may work ......

The roof is mounted at the front of the frame by two bolts each side of the rear of the door pillars. If you look just behind each door rear pillar on the inside there are two round plastic trim covers that cover these bolts.with the roof up but unlatched, Remove the trims and loosen ( do not remove ) the bolts . This will give you a small amount of play in the roof mounting , try moving it back or forward , tighten and retry the roof. This is sometimes enough to align the hall sensor . Not always but it's worth a try .

Already tried that. I'll try again.

[Number5]

Once you've got the motor working again, Try removing the long triangular plastic trim that runs along behind the bulkhead at the top of the boot carpet and see if it then fully drops. It sounds like there is a possibility that the windscreen is not folding correctly and its catching on the back trim rather than dropping fully into the well.

As Dietcokeman says, slacken off the hinge pivot bolts and let it square itself up too.

[Sgr74]

Once you've got the motor working again, Try removing the long triangular plastic trim that runs along behind the bulkhead at the top of the boot carpet and see if it then fully drops. It sounds like there is a possibility that the windscreen is not folding correctly and its catching on the back trim rather than dropping fully into the well.

As Dietcokeman says, slacken off the hinge pivot bolts and let it square itself up too.

Loosened off the 4 bolts and put the roof down. Locked it in position and tightened the bolts.
No difference. So it has to be the way it's folding.

[daggers]

anyone got a decent picture of the motor relocated please
In the process of getting my motor out of its watery grave I detached the pump assembly from the motor thinking it was a good idea but in the process the drive pins etc fell out! I have retrieved the pieces but not sure how it goes back together has anyone got a diagram of the pump assembly please

[Number5]

Here you go fella

[Sgr74]

Here you go fella

You should pack that hole with insulation. Reduces the noise a bit.

[daggers]

Thanks - very neat job I must say!
Did you cut a small slot in the plastic tray to pass the hoses through ?

[Number5]

Thanks - very neat job I must say!
Did you cut a small slot in the plastic tray to pass the hoses through ?

Yes, a 20mm Hole for both hydraulic lines and the two power leads

You should pack that hole with insulation. Reduces the noise a bit.

I sometimes use the bottom half of the original housing. However a lot of people seem to feel reassured to hear the motor running again, having experienced silence during its failure. After all its only 8 seconds

[Sgr74]

Thanks - very neat job I must say!
Did you cut a small slot in the plastic tray to pass the hoses through ?

Yes, a 20mm Hole for both hydraulic lines and the two power leads

You should pack that hole with insulation. Reduces the noise a bit.

I sometimes use the bottom half of the original housing. However a lot of people seem to feel reassured to hear the motor running again, having experienced silence during its failure. After all its only 8 seconds

I used the housing at first but wanted the motor more upright.

[Joe4]

Not had a chance to attempt getting the motor running again as I've been working 14 hour days this week , but I think I've now narrowed it down to the pump as being the problem.

Using your idea (dietcokeman) and attaching a drill to the motor shaft I was able to spin the motor and lower the roof perfectly but not raise ( I had switched the hydraulic lines to opposite ports)

Is there any kind of rebuild kit available for these pumps? Or does anyone know of anybody selling a good pump?