Z4-forum.com

sk93 wrote:The server I was hosting them on up and died on me :/

I will try and find the originals and repost in the next week..

Hey sk93, were you ever able to find these pics again? I would love to give this a go with your great "how to", but not sure I would attempt it without the pics.....

I just did my E85 2.2 and worked a treat with all the parts bought at Halfords as you suggested.
the 36mm socket added an extra £13 to the costs but once you have it thats a one off.
Cars running lovely.
Thanks for the post

sk93 wrote:The server I was hosting them on up and died on me :/

I will try and find the originals and repost in the next week..

Would love to see the pics to accompany this great write up. What are the chances please?

I have an oilleak at oil filter cap should I replace cap or re order filter and o rings first? I have done 100s of oil changes so have experience, just don't know my z4 well enough

ed cuffe wrote:I have an oilleak at oil filter cap should I replace cap or re order filter and o rings first? I have done 100s of oil changes so have experience, just don't know my z4 well enough

ur sure its at the cap and not the housing gasket?
if at the cap its prob ur o-ring. u should always use new one as theyre usually supplied with a new filter as well as a sump plug gasket.
if its not the o-ring then its prob ur cap is x-threaded/warped. if it's not that then ur fooked. lol

thanks chris d I did change all o rings, how to check if cap has warped its a 2004 z4 roadster 110k

I take it you tightened it down properly? I think there is a torque spec on the cap itself but I can't rememeber.
Your worst case scenario is a warped housing, in which case you'll need to renew that as well as all the gaskets. I've read that engine when revved can cause a breach of the filter cap - over-pressure etc.
Hence, its quite important that you're sure its from the cap and nowhere else.
pics might help others to give you opinions/ideas but I think a new cap as a first remedial step might help cancel out more potentially expensive problems....

what about using Teflon tape on threads of cap, yes or no. looking at it does look warped, and the leak is constant even at idol.

I think a vid is in order, as i've never seen a constant leak a the cap before!
But I thnk your only option would be to buy a new cap to see if that fixes the probem. theyre not expensive so a good first step in cancelling out if its the cap or not. make sure you use the new o-ring too, smeared with a little oil before placing.
if it doesnt fix the problem then its garage time i think. ur housing may be cracked or warped.

thanks chris d I try getting a video on later as I am gone for a while vaca

well my bad, the o ring large one was defective, pitted, replaced and no leaking. thanks for the replies. any advise on getting this phone to activate, is it only with bmw service.?

ed cuffe wrote: I have done 100s of oil changes so have experience,

Iv changed the motoroil and oilfilter today, wasnt hard at all.
Jacked up left front, suppored it with stands. Got under and opened the hatch, (one bolt), took a 17mm and lossened the drain bolt, jacked down, replaced the filter, jacked up, in with the bolt and closed the hatch, down with the car, filled 6,5l of BMW Twin Turbo W0-30 04LL, started up and kept it at 1200rpm for 3min, (as TIS-manual says), cheked level, ok, finished!

2,5SI 6 speed manual -06

Im planning on doing this in the next couple of weeks - is it ok to drain the oil with just 1 side of the car jacked up (and 1 axle stand)?

stevengude wrote:Im planning on doing this in the next couple of weeks - is it ok to drain the oil with just 1 side of the car jacked up (and 1 axle stand)?

Not ideal as you'll obviously have some left in the bottom of the sum that's sitting lower than the hole. You may also get residual oil sat in other places as the engine won't be level. Axle stands are pretty cheap. Just buy another one.