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'06 Coupe ICE Install *Picture Heavy*

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th30d0r3
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'06 Coupe ICE Install *Picture Heavy*

Post by th30d0r3 » Mon Feb 07, 2011 5:45 pm

So I’ve finally finished my ICE install into m ’06 Coupe; be warned this is rather Image intensive so you can see what I went through and perhaps do yours better the next time round. There are quite a few images missing from this write up however they will be added later today, once I get back home. I’m also going to gloss over the trim removal parts since there’s plenty of guide about that will fill in those blanks, so I will make many assumptions that you know what you’re doing.

Ruby (The car) originally had the business Professional with 6 speaker setup which we all know is lacking in every way, coming from a car with Harman Kardon it was pretty clear that things needed to change, so I purchased the following items from Various places for this upgrade, I’ve added links to each item so you can see details of what they are.

1 x Kenwood KAC-X4D Amplifier (1200W, 4 Channel, Class D) - £275 – Link /[url] 1 x Kenwood KPX-T120 Tri Mode Crossove ... .html]Link
1 x Hertz: ESK163L.3 - 3 way 16.5cm components - £219 – Link /[url] 1 x Hertz: ECX100.3 - 2 way 10cm speak ... .html]Link
2 x Connection by Audison: FT2-550 - 5.5m RCA - £15 each – Link
2 x Autoleads: G9-S215-10 - 10m x 1.5mm Flat Speaker Cable - £10 each – Link
2 x Orion Speaker to RCA Converter with Variable Gain – £10 Each – Link Missing
Loads of spade Connectors and Splicers

Here’s some pictures of the stuff:
Components
Image
Image

Amp & Crossovers
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Wiring
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The aim was to have an install that is completely hidden and fits in the existing confines of the car; I also wanted to get maximum SQ without having thumping bass to chav the car up. Ruby is only little and there’s no need to drown out the rest of the sound with a fat sub, but I also wanted the low frequencies to be pronounced do deliver rich bass into the cabin.

The Amp was selected for its size and value for money and performance; that thing is tiny and has active cooling; and fits into the existing Amp hole as shown below:
Image
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The Hertz components and the 2 way were selected for their size and range of frequency, these are the most important parts so they had to be good; the ECX100’s are basically the 2 way version of the components. I selected to two way to spread the audio range throughout the car; below are size comparisons:

Footwell Woofers
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This Image shows the difference in the mounting holds, I’ll come to that in a moment
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Door Mids
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Tweats
Missing Images

Rear Mids
Missing Images

This crossover was selected to drive the JL subs at low frequencies because they can bridge the sub output but deliver full range to the rear; very clever and very rare, there’s maybe 2 on Ebay at the moment; get them while you can.
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Ok so now for the fun part.
The new Woofers may be the same size as the stock Woofers, however they cannot be mounted without a little innovation;
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They are also different on each side, meaning the driver side has an additional mount, both the woofer are identical, however this mount adds additional depth to allow for a slightly wider speaker cover on the driver’s side to make room for the bonnet release and other stuff.
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So I decided to get creative and mimic the stock mounting solution using 3mm MDF.
Firstly I destroyed one of the stock speakers (with much glee and delight I might add)
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Used the shape from the above picture to create a plate for the new woofer (I used a Dremel to cut the shape out for added precision); which lined up like a dream, I placed the new plate in driver side mount bracket to make sure it was the right size.
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For the Drivers side I simply mounted the Woofer into the pod that houses the stock Woofer, and bolted it in place, since it’s made out of ABS plastic, drill some hole and use short screws with pinchers to keep it in place. But then I hit a snag, the speaker edges was fouling the stock mounting holes.
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So I trimmed back the speakers in 4 places so they no longer foul the holes; I had to use a Dremel with a grinding stone for this since the speaker is rubber and metal; I strongly suggest you mark where you’re gonna trim first since the holes are not equally spaced around the speaker.
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Test fitted the screw just to be sure I got it right
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This was the same for the passenger side so both speakers required modification; once complete, I bonded the speakers to their respective mounts using high impact multipurpose glue (choses specifically coz I was bonding wood to metal or metal to plastic), here are the finished articles drying ready for fitting.
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Mids were a piece of cake with the hertz kit, here’s where they would be sitting:
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As you can see BMW have bolts in place to fit the mids to which thankfully align beautifully to the standard mounting holes of the hertz, so all I needed to do was modify the top mounts to they match the curvature of the plastic surround and use self-tapping 10mm screws to button them down; be very careful to not go over 10mm since they will go through the door card and pierce your lovely leather on the other side!!!
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Tweets needed a little more fiddling; so much so I neglected to take any photo’s due to my excessive swearing and sore fingers; I’ll add some later; basically they are bonded with epoxy in place however the bonds can be removed using your Dremel with a small head (NOT A KNIFE, OR YOU’LL LOSE FINGERS). Then they were bonded back in place. I won’t go into this too much since without images you won’t get to see what I’m referring to.

The JL Subs were not photographed either, however I’ll take them apart again so you can see the work there too. But here’s a really bad picture taken on my phone so you get an impression on their size:
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Essentially, I mounted them onto the stock metal plate, since they are very heavy and like the woofers don’t fit the same mounting holes I simply drilled some new ones and used nuts and bolts to secure them onto the plate.
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I also sound dampened the enclosures using vibe sound dampening to completely seal the box off and close any vents, the wiring was run through the rear hole and then under the vibe matting.
I then used universal spray glue (stuff used for gluing down the sub carpet) and sprayed every inch of the enclosure with a thick coat for 2 reasons, 1st to close up any small holes and 2nd to attach some acoustic filler to the inside of the box. The theory behind this is:
The matting reduces the resonance of the metal box reducing flex and feedback increasing SPL and the acoustic matting does some counter scientific wizardry by fooling the amp into thinking it’s in a larger box by refracting the sound waves in different direction preventing it bouncing back against the back of the sub thus allowing for lower frequency sounds.
Since I was not smart enough to buy the matting, I distracted the missus with a bottle of WKD and stole a pillow from the soda and rubbed the filler against the half dry glue creating a thick layer.
God this bit really needs pictures…

Then I used my Dremel and reduced the plastic sticky out bit on the back of the grill to prevent the sub from hitting it as it’s wobbling away. Then I fitted the plates and subs into the enclosure and bolted them up.

Now comes all the complicated wiring:

So I chose the flat wiring because it’s 8 gauge and can be run without bulging and has very durable rubber so can also be pulled quite hard through tight spaces. I used a CD marker on the cabling to mark the + and – on both ends, that just removed the thinking aspect later on when you’re getting tired and it also allows you to keep track of what wire is for what component and where it goes.
To connect the components I used Halfords spade terminals which I had to remove the coloured plastic so they would fit on the end of the wiring; since the wires themselves were marked this made caused no identification issues.

Firstly I laid out all the wires and trimmed them to size, this picture shows where I’ve run the RCA from the front down the left trunking to the boot; along the back wall and into the battery trunk space down the right rear carpet, that’s a bit of a way, but there’s vastly more room to stuff cables that the left side and there’s a sticky out bit allowing cables to be run into the amp space (see the last picture).
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This picture shows the left trunking; the sill cover pops of with a little effort (pulling in an upwards motion 3 inches from the left edge
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To feed the front components you need to run the wires through the rubber grommet at the edge of the woofer hole; I had to increase the hole in the grommet to fit all the cables in however they fit well enough and the grommet went back in nicely.
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For the tweets I used the existing wiring, since they are less than 10w full gauge cable would have been a pain to run twice so the standard cable is good enough, so I trimmed the cable off and lengthened it so it reached the crossover which was hidden (too hidden for the camera unfortunately) above the footwell woofers.
The following images show how I ran the mid cable through the existing channelling as you would do when adding a door handle LED.
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Since the wires are flat there is a small space beneath the connector where the wire can run though, fits very nicely but is a bit of a faff to get it through the rubber channel; both ends of that channel come away from the door and the chassis, make sure to run the cable in reverse, so that’s door to chassis since it’s just easier that way
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Once run all cables go through the grommet mentioned above and into the crossover. Then you can fit all the speakers in and stick your door cards back on and tweeters so you can perform audio tests.

Next was to tap into the Head Unit output, since there is limited flex in the wiring you have to be rather wily in getting all the connections in place. So I spliced into all the speaker wires and connected the 2 Origin Speaker to RCA Connectors. I also spliced in my DICE link Plus to the, Live, Earth and I-Bus, this looks like a mess, but I can know what everything is 
[Image to follow]

Now that the front is wired ready to go, I then had to tackle the rear, however the sun decided to go to bed and left me at a loss as to how to remove the plastic from the back wall to get to the rear speakers so I decided to give them a miss for now and tackle them next weekend.
However I still ran all the wiring in prep for next weekend and connected the stock mids to where the hertz should be just to make sure it all worked. This is where the Kenwood KPX-T120 comes into play. So I fed it with the rear left and right outputs from the sub; joined up the subs on to the sub output terminals and the mids onto the left right component outputs.
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Then I hid it behind the existing mounting using double sided tape
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The last thing to do was wire up the amp, I double check every single connection to make sure they were secure, undamaged and not bridging then wired up the amp which was very quick.
The Preamp (amp signal) I sourced from the amplified areal running from the back of the head unit. You can also pick this up (like I did) at the back of the car just to the left of the metal mounting bracket shown two pictures up; it’s the white cable running midway up the wall; splice into it and feed your remote connector on your amp; it will switch on once the radio comes on.
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I’ve used the wires to wedge the sub in place with an extra spongy thing on the other side to dampen any knocks; the RCA connectors I used have 90 degree angles on the sub end which allowed for the shallow mount meaning it fit the sub space nicely with enough space for the active cooling to work, and since that space is practically outside it’ll stay cool anyway.

Since every amp is different I’ll skip the SQ bit but I basically ran lower frequencies to the rear at a slightly increased volume (+3 since the low frequencies are harder to hear) and full range to the front at a +2 ratio to the head unit. (meaning I increased the input volume on the front)

First impressions are staggering; the sound is so much richer, clearer, less distorted, fuller in range, superb bass and not one rattle; the headunit settings are configured to bass and treble in the middle. Fading a little forward, but that will be tweaked over time as the speakers bed in. All in all I can’t quite get over how much better it sounds; it’s awesome!!!

The only things left to do is change the rear mids which will just set it off beautifully and change the metal plate the JL subs are mounted to since I’m not happy with the sound they’re producing. I’ve already shaped and cut some 10mm MDF replacements with a 5” vent, just gonna wait till the weekend to swap it out.

Things I learnt:
Never use a knife to replace a screw driver
Dremels run hot
BMW don’t know sh*t about SQ
Don’t scrimp on the budget on your install, one cheap component will mess up the entire install
Don’t use the metal plate for the rear subs, use 10mm MDF
Always test before you screw everything back in.
Buy a torch with a rubber handle so you can use your mouth to hold it (just watch the dribble) or get a torch hat.
Get yourself a cordless power drill to save the forearms

Left overs:
1 x JBL: GTO-3501e - Mono Bass Amplifier - £109 – Link
2 x Stock Mids (soon to be 4)
1 x Stock Woofer (other was destroyed ;))
Last edited by th30d0r3 on Tue Feb 08, 2011 3:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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fraserbottomley
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Re: '06 Coupe ICE Install *Picture Heavy*

Post by fraserbottomley » Mon Feb 07, 2011 8:22 pm

Nice write up!

I'm just ordering my stuff ready for my upgrade. Did you bother sound deadening the doors/doorcards and footwell? If not that might be something to consider in the future, I've never sound deadened any of my cars yet but it's supposed to make a marked difference!

With the 6.5" woofers in the footwell does the existing grommet (in the pic below) stop them sitting flush to the metal panel and creating an air tight seal?

Image

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Re: '06 Coupe ICE Install *Picture Heavy*

Post by PawnSacrifice » Mon Feb 07, 2011 10:54 pm

th30d0r3 very thorough job, stripping the car down and routing everything properly and making the adapter plates. Well documented too - thanks for taking the time to take all the pictures, will be really helpful for people wanting to upgrade! Great write up :thumbsup:

And yes, Dremels run very hot, but really get the job done. Fast becoming my favourite tool.

Lets just hope you put some decent music through it - none of your coupe driver gash Euro pop or it'll probably self ignite :P
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Re: '06 Coupe ICE Install *Picture Heavy*

Post by jamiez » Mon Feb 07, 2011 11:18 pm

Fantastic write up!

What headunit?
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Re: '06 Coupe ICE Install *Picture Heavy*

Post by peddy » Tue Feb 08, 2011 3:52 am

Great work and write up Theo! :thumbsup:

I can hear a little crackling in my speakers recently, so good excuss for that upgrade now! :evil:
jamiez wrote:Fantastic write up!

What headunit?
Stock I believe.

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Re: '06 Coupe ICE Install *Picture Heavy*

Post by a11y » Tue Feb 08, 2011 9:55 am

Great write up. Not quite what I'm looking for - I always maintained I'd stay with my stock business setup - but I'm very tempted to simply add a couple of 6.5" subs into the proper enclosures behind the seats. I've got a nice setup in my van and I do miss the SQ when I'm in the Z4. Saying that, I spend so little time using the stereo that it's probably not worth the time and expense for me...
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Re: '06 Coupe ICE Install *Picture Heavy*

Post by th30d0r3 » Tue Feb 08, 2011 10:57 am

To answer the questions.

No the rubber grommet does not cause issues with the speaker mounting since I applied double sided tape to the bracket and the stock bracket already has padding, the rubber will deform to fit.
Sound deadening would make a small difference, will improve the SPL on the woofers and make the bass a little more solid, but then you’d have to dampen the entire cubby hole which is very small, but something to think about this weekend.
I’m using the stock unit for now, trying to find a reason not to install an aftermarket one.

One other thing I’ve learned is that the sub enclosures behind the seat are rather large for 6.5” subs; basically they’re too large, the JL’s which are pretty powerful require only 4.2l for a sealed enclosure or 7.4l for a vented enclosure. The z4 enclosures are close to 10l, meaning the space is far too vast to get full bass. The only options is to vent the box and make do or reduce the space somehow, I’ve envisaged foaming half the box out and making a wall out of some Plastercene (which I have, don’t ask me why) or something to reduce the volume by half. So if you’ve added subs in the back and haven’t got good sound, try that first before shelling out more cash. Check the enclosure specs for your subs on the manufacturers website.

Anyway, bit more done today…

So after taking pictures of the SOT lead behind the head unit, I decided that it’s just a sore sight to behold and that I needed to make some changes. This is what it looked like after the install, very messy and tight, risk of damaging cables poor connections and thin cables to the RCA converters means poor sound.
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So I popped down to Halfords and dropped yet more money in their piggy bank and brought me one of these; this is a SOT to ISO converter to allow the connection of a hands free, Halfords sell many variants, but they’re all essentially the same thing, I brought a Mondeo one simply coz there was no BMW one didn’t matter since I was gonna hack it to bits anyway.
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So the idea is to wire the RCA converters into the bottom right connector on this picture, after severing it from the main loom, this will allow me to retain the stock wiring unmolested and allow me to install and remove them at will during future installs, also coz it’s tidy and a bit flash. That connector will them be plugged directly into the female end on the top right, bridging the gap and completely bypassing the stock speaker wiring, which is now redundant further reducing interference.
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But first I had to rewire the RCA converters (previously I called them Origin RCA connectors, they are actually Orion RCA converters), the wiring is pretty pitiful on these things so while in Halfords I also purchased the following:
5m Premium 1.5mm speaker wire
Assorted Heat-Shrink (awesome stuff, used to insulate bare cable in electrical circuits, you run the wires through them then cover the bare metal, add heat and they shrink down to a tight fit)
3m 8 Amp Electrical cable (black)

So I opened up the RCA connectors to see the extent of the work needed:
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As you can see (just) the two separate ground wires are actually connected to the same soldering point, I can only assume there’s two for versatility; the inputs are labelled also which makes things easier, so I removed the exiting wiring
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And soldered in the new thicker speaker wires directly to the board and the 8amp ground wire (thicker too) was added and bridged both solder points on the board.
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Sleeved the cables in Heat-Shrink to keep them tight and also to spread any pulling across all cables adding strength but most importantly coz it’s tidy and a bit flash.
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Closed them back up and here’s the finished products, bit of a fiddly job but well worth it
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Next was to connect the new connections to the speaker side of the ISO block, so I stripped and prepared the ISO block and removed all uneccessary wires from the SOT loom by removing the pins or severing the wires where possible.
The real cool bit is that each little wire has it’s designation written on it so no need to mark them or write anything down (which is not quite the same with the RCA converters which have just been rewired and not marked up. So I had to open them up and multimeter the wires to check them, but anyway you learn from your mistakes; Keep the BMW wiring diagram handy anyway just in case you forget yourself for a moment)
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Few minutes soldering the speaker wires to their relevant terminations and joined the earths up and added a spade terminal to the end Heat-Shrinking it all into place, we end up with a new tidy and a bit flash loom for Ruby.
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So for fitting it was real simple, run the new loom from the passenger footwell up to the stereo hole, disconnect the DICE and the BT and plug them into the new HU end of the loom (black and white 10 min connectors); mate the more happy and less cluttered stock loom to the new male end of the SOT loom
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I had to then bend it back on itself so the BT can reach the new loom, since it’s a bit tight, but there’s plenty of free space in that cubby; pushed it all back into the cubby and then connected it all up to the HU for a quick test. (everything lit up fine, DICE kicked in but no sound… might wanna connect the RCA’s to the converters Dumbo!!)

So everything works like a dream, less interference, more reach on the RCA converters meaning they can be now nicely tucked away, and the entire system can be removed without any problems, stock speaker loom completely bypassed, and if I need to tap into anything, I can tap directly into the new loom.
The ground was secured to a screw going into the bulkhead in the passenger footwell, however I’m still getting alternator whine so more troubleshooting to be done after work. I’m thinking it’s a ground somewhere that’s not connected properly so I’m getting a bit of “Ground Loop Back” which is a killer on an amped system.

Sorry about the poor pictures, my speedlight batteries died on me, I'll take higher res ones upon request

Few questions:
Is there an alternative Preamp (remote) source, than the one I’ve chosen?
Does anyone else have alternator whine?
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Re: '06 Coupe ICE Install *Picture Heavy*

Post by fraserbottomley » Tue Feb 08, 2011 4:55 pm

Alternator whine usualy stems from a poor earth connection, maybe for your amp (unlikely if you've connected to the battery negative) or your RCA converters if they need grounding?

With regards to the standard HU, do you find it cuts the bass at all at higher volumes or does it keep the output EQ/frequencies pretty flat? I'm going to be using RCA converters like yourself, but some factory HU's mess with the frequencies as you adjust the volume. Hence peoples use of a JL cleansweep, or a MTX Re-Q - a good, cheaper alternative to the cleansweep that restores a decent input signal to your amplifiers...

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Re: '06 Coupe ICE Install *Picture Heavy*

Post by DanEvs » Tue Feb 08, 2011 4:59 pm

fraserbottomley wrote:Alternator whine usualy stems from a poor earth connection, maybe for your amp (unlikely if you've connected to the battery negative) or your RCA converters if they need grounding?
Also running RCA's anywhere near the wiring loom of the car will do this. :thumbsup:
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Re: '06 Coupe ICE Install *Picture Heavy*

Post by a11y » Tue Feb 08, 2011 5:24 pm

DanEvs wrote:
fraserbottomley wrote:Alternator whine usualy stems from a poor earth connection, maybe for your amp (unlikely if you've connected to the battery negative) or your RCA converters if they need grounding?
Also running RCA's anywhere near the wiring loom of the car will do this. :thumbsup:
Particularly power cables. Been there, learned that when I was younger! I'm about to install a sub and amp in my sister-in-law's car and will be putting all this into practice again: RCA's down one side of the car, power cable and remote down the other side.
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Re: '06 Coupe ICE Install *Picture Heavy*

Post by th30d0r3 » Tue Feb 08, 2011 5:59 pm

See I've done that, all the power cables run down the drivers side while the RCA's are on the passenger side, however they do run into the AMP section along th eback wall then past the main power loom under the right boot wall carpetting, I'll move them to the other side tonight. I've also purchased a Phono to RCA converter to see if connecting the system to my Ipod will create the same interference which would rule out the AMP if it's clean. I have a spare RCA to play with so that'll be handy.
I think the AMP is grounding itself down the RCA's since I've popped out to unplug the earth but the AMP was still on :o even after taking out the earth, been doing alot of reading today and the advice from even the top installers is not to connect the earth to the battery, but the bodywork.
Also gonna be testing the ground on the RCA's using a multimeter on the outer ring, then I'll change the AMP wiring kit for a more thicker kind; if I spin the amp around I can redirect all the speakers and such away from the power sources without them crossing over, may also test fit the amp outside that cubby hole as a last resort.

Update to follow...
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Re: '06 Coupe ICE Install *Picture Heavy*

Post by th30d0r3 » Wed Feb 09, 2011 1:00 am

Ok sorted it, had to pretty much remove the entire system and rerun the cables down the passenger side of the car where the huge loom is not present; however in these cars there are two huge live terminals in each corner under the dashboard, which happened to be near the crossovers and RCA converters. Also try to avoid the heater matrix which is annoyingly on the cabin side of the firewall.
So I turned on the car after rerunning the cables then moved the crossovers and RCAs until the sound disapeared and then reseated them; took me all evening, but it was well worth the effort, now I can sleep without dreaming about alternator whine and how to resolve it.
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Re: '06 Coupe ICE Install *Picture Heavy*

Post by TLRominger » Wed Feb 09, 2011 1:10 am

OK I'm going to get jump on for this but. Being in the states what does ICE stand for? I know what it is but what do the letters stand for.
Thanks :?
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Re: '06 Coupe ICE Install *Picture Heavy*

Post by peddy » Wed Feb 09, 2011 1:58 am

TLRominger wrote:OK I'm going to get jump on for this but. Being in the states what does ICE stand for? I know what it is but what do the letters stand for.
Thanks :?
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