Headlight Servo repair E85
Posted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 6:54 pm
Hi all.
I had an intermittent fault on my headlight alignment auto test when the ignition was placed into position 1. The headlight would dip and not return to the correct position, no matter how many times the ignition would be reset.
the only cure would be to take the back cover off the headlight assembly and wiggle the servo with the retaining screws relaxed.
I had ordered a replacement part to fit, but it is near impossible to remove the interior socket without stripping the headlight out, also the replacement was slightly different as well. the only way to fit it would be to join the cables and heatshrink etc...
I decided to take the motor apart and check to see if there was a fault that could be rectified.
So......
Remove the front wheel and associated covers to get better access.
Remove the 2 screws holding the servo in (Torx T15)
Gently remove the ball socket from the headlight main assembly by sliding towards the outside of the headlight. (You should see the channel it sits in).
Once released, you should be able to withdraw the whole assembly held in place now purely by the wires.
Now, you will need a small jewellers screwdriver to release the 4 small catches holding the plastic cover. looking carefully, the latches move outwards. so gently prize all 4 apart and the cover will come apart.
Once you have removed the cover, you should see this......
The plastic wire retainer literally just plugs into the motor housing. VERY VERY gently pull on this whilst prying the long lugs either side to release the wires from the motor. The pins holding the wires into place MUST stay with the motor body, NOT the plug. The pins on the motor Krone onto all the wires very similar to a BT phone socket.
On removal, you should now have all these parts
If you notice, one of the long lugs snapped on the retaining cover as the motor housing was quite brittle.
The motor is a very simple idea with 2 sets of coils of enamelled copper wire and a geared section attached to the core.
My actual motor had 2 loose pins which I believe was causing the problem. the wire was not attached correctly to the krones at the base. It was just touching which would give the intermittent fault.
I placed the coil section in the vice and clamped it just enough to hold in place.
As you can see (just) the krones are machined in. 1 was missing and to repair you will need to have enough cable to hold over the slot whilst you push the pin in with a pair of needle nose pliers.
I did not have enough cable to do this so in order to get a good length, I soldered a thicker piece of wire to the strand and pushed it through the small hole which would feed around the core and come out the other side, giving you the required length
Once this was done, hold the cable with one hand feeding it through the small plastic groove with the excess sitting out. push the small Krone back into place with just enough pressure, too much will buckle it!
Refitting all the parts in the reverse order of removal and test.
Amazingly, this seems to have cured my fault. So time will tell!
Hopefully this will be of use to fellow forum members out there, even if its how the actual thing is put together!
Tools needed.
T15 Torx
Needle Nose Pliers
Jewellers Screwdrivers (flat head)
Small vice
(soldering iron - thicker wire) for snapped windings
Apologies for the lack of photographs....
I had an intermittent fault on my headlight alignment auto test when the ignition was placed into position 1. The headlight would dip and not return to the correct position, no matter how many times the ignition would be reset.
the only cure would be to take the back cover off the headlight assembly and wiggle the servo with the retaining screws relaxed.
I had ordered a replacement part to fit, but it is near impossible to remove the interior socket without stripping the headlight out, also the replacement was slightly different as well. the only way to fit it would be to join the cables and heatshrink etc...
I decided to take the motor apart and check to see if there was a fault that could be rectified.
So......
Remove the front wheel and associated covers to get better access.
Remove the 2 screws holding the servo in (Torx T15)
Gently remove the ball socket from the headlight main assembly by sliding towards the outside of the headlight. (You should see the channel it sits in).
Once released, you should be able to withdraw the whole assembly held in place now purely by the wires.
Now, you will need a small jewellers screwdriver to release the 4 small catches holding the plastic cover. looking carefully, the latches move outwards. so gently prize all 4 apart and the cover will come apart.
Once you have removed the cover, you should see this......
The plastic wire retainer literally just plugs into the motor housing. VERY VERY gently pull on this whilst prying the long lugs either side to release the wires from the motor. The pins holding the wires into place MUST stay with the motor body, NOT the plug. The pins on the motor Krone onto all the wires very similar to a BT phone socket.
On removal, you should now have all these parts
If you notice, one of the long lugs snapped on the retaining cover as the motor housing was quite brittle.
The motor is a very simple idea with 2 sets of coils of enamelled copper wire and a geared section attached to the core.
My actual motor had 2 loose pins which I believe was causing the problem. the wire was not attached correctly to the krones at the base. It was just touching which would give the intermittent fault.
I placed the coil section in the vice and clamped it just enough to hold in place.
As you can see (just) the krones are machined in. 1 was missing and to repair you will need to have enough cable to hold over the slot whilst you push the pin in with a pair of needle nose pliers.
I did not have enough cable to do this so in order to get a good length, I soldered a thicker piece of wire to the strand and pushed it through the small hole which would feed around the core and come out the other side, giving you the required length
Once this was done, hold the cable with one hand feeding it through the small plastic groove with the excess sitting out. push the small Krone back into place with just enough pressure, too much will buckle it!
Refitting all the parts in the reverse order of removal and test.
Amazingly, this seems to have cured my fault. So time will tell!
Hopefully this will be of use to fellow forum members out there, even if its how the actual thing is put together!
Tools needed.
T15 Torx
Needle Nose Pliers
Jewellers Screwdrivers (flat head)
Small vice
(soldering iron - thicker wire) for snapped windings
Apologies for the lack of photographs....
I'm in no Hurry CJ, so if you have the spare and no one's already claimed it I'd love it. It'd save me trying to use my spanner monkey spec hands to try and fix this one!
