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Rear light issues
Rear light issues
Ok firstly I have to say thank you to flybobbie for his video on removing the rear lights that can be found on YouTube if you search .
I know this has been cover before but here is my take on things. The following may be of help to someone with what I have discovered when looking at my own car .
If you think you lights may be suffering from water ingress, you need to look at the bottom white/silver indicator section of the lamp to see if you have this sort of thing
Next also look at the edge of the light lens here and see if it looks like this
If it does, then it's a good bet that the seal between the lens and the housing has been compromised too, a frosty look here is a bad sign .
With the lamp removed from the car , clean off the debris that will be around the rubber seals that seal the lamp into the back panel . Then carefully remove the seal panel by prising it off like this
This will then reveal the seal that will also cause issues if not attended to , as its porous and soaks up water eventually , also one of mine was fitted poorly which doesn't help .
You will note that the the bulbs ( apart from the indicator led's which are not replaceable ) can still be removed with the seal panel in place , so don't worry about the next bit, which is basically sealing the panel onto the grey housing to prevent water ingress.......
Clean the lamp lens and housing joint , where the lens meets the grey housing , where is may be compromised. Clean the seal and seal panel, dry them throughly , dry the lamps out thoroughly in a airing cupboard or on a radiator etc until the lamps and seals etc are completely dry.
Now refit the seal into the plastic holder( the googles plastic trim with rubber seals ) then run a bead of silicone sealer around the refitted seal and replace it on to the rear lamp housing and push it firmly into place on all its clips whilst the silicone is still wet .
Now run a bead of silicone sealer right around the lamp edge between the lens and grey housing , smooth the joint off with a wet finger making sure the gap is full of sealer , do not worry at this point about excess, this can easily be trimmed off with a sharp knife when the silicone has dried , but try and fill the gap fully with silicone sealer .
Refit the lamps and hopefully the water ingress issue will be sorted. It appears the bottom edge of these lamps crack away from the inner housing whilst flexing when the roof is operated . And the seal inside the plastic holder is made of open cell foam which allows water to soak up and then bleed into the housing eventually . Crappy design .
Hope this helps someone
I know this has been cover before but here is my take on things. The following may be of help to someone with what I have discovered when looking at my own car .
If you think you lights may be suffering from water ingress, you need to look at the bottom white/silver indicator section of the lamp to see if you have this sort of thing
Next also look at the edge of the light lens here and see if it looks like this
If it does, then it's a good bet that the seal between the lens and the housing has been compromised too, a frosty look here is a bad sign .
With the lamp removed from the car , clean off the debris that will be around the rubber seals that seal the lamp into the back panel . Then carefully remove the seal panel by prising it off like this
This will then reveal the seal that will also cause issues if not attended to , as its porous and soaks up water eventually , also one of mine was fitted poorly which doesn't help .
You will note that the the bulbs ( apart from the indicator led's which are not replaceable ) can still be removed with the seal panel in place , so don't worry about the next bit, which is basically sealing the panel onto the grey housing to prevent water ingress.......
Clean the lamp lens and housing joint , where the lens meets the grey housing , where is may be compromised. Clean the seal and seal panel, dry them throughly , dry the lamps out thoroughly in a airing cupboard or on a radiator etc until the lamps and seals etc are completely dry.
Now refit the seal into the plastic holder( the googles plastic trim with rubber seals ) then run a bead of silicone sealer around the refitted seal and replace it on to the rear lamp housing and push it firmly into place on all its clips whilst the silicone is still wet .
Now run a bead of silicone sealer right around the lamp edge between the lens and grey housing , smooth the joint off with a wet finger making sure the gap is full of sealer , do not worry at this point about excess, this can easily be trimmed off with a sharp knife when the silicone has dried , but try and fill the gap fully with silicone sealer .
Refit the lamps and hopefully the water ingress issue will be sorted. It appears the bottom edge of these lamps crack away from the inner housing whilst flexing when the roof is operated . And the seal inside the plastic holder is made of open cell foam which allows water to soak up and then bleed into the housing eventually . Crappy design .
Hope this helps someone
- mr wilks
- Legend
- Posts: 21897
- Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2012 10:02 pm
- Location: Lancashire
Rear light issues
Good post & reminded me that the rear bulbs on 89s are silly money ( £20 ??? ish rings a bell ) to replace & generally a dealer only item
3 ZMRs
3 E89s
5 Si coupes
5 Si roadsters
997 C4
TTRS
F82 M4
MK7 Golf Gti
current Bmw 6 Gran Turismo
3 E89s
5 Si coupes
5 Si roadsters
997 C4
TTRS
F82 M4
MK7 Golf Gti
current Bmw 6 Gran Turismo
Rear light issues
Really ? Aren't they just capless 12v 16w and 12v 10w bulbs ? Seems steep if your correct Andy , why do they need to be from a dealer. ? Am I missing something ?mr wilks wrote:Good post & reminded me that the rear bulbs on 89s are silly money ( £20 ??? ish rings a bell ) to replace & generally a dealer only item
- mr wilks
- Legend
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- Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2012 10:02 pm
- Location: Lancashire
Rear light issues
Dunno for sure just remember picking my 23i up from my indy after he replaced air con condenser who mentioned that he had replaced a fog lamp bulb but luckily from a scrap E89 he had in as otherwise it was a silly price from dealer ?Dietcokeman wrote:Really ? Aren't they just capless 12v 16w and 12v 10w bulbs ? Seems steep if your correct Andy , why do they need to be from a dealer. ? Am I missing something ?mr wilks wrote:Good post & reminded me that the rear bulbs on 89s are silly money ( £20 ??? ish rings a bell ) to replace & generally a dealer only item
Could be wrong but it just clicked in my mind when i saw your rear lamp unit
He didn't charge me for it so can't say he fleeced me
3 ZMRs
3 E89s
5 Si coupes
5 Si roadsters
997 C4
TTRS
F82 M4
MK7 Golf Gti
current Bmw 6 Gran Turismo
3 E89s
5 Si coupes
5 Si roadsters
997 C4
TTRS
F82 M4
MK7 Golf Gti
current Bmw 6 Gran Turismo
-
- Lifer
- Posts: 7020
- Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2012 7:53 am
- Location: High Peak,Derbyshire.
Rear light issues
382/582 or double element 580....
£1 each..
£1 each..
- mr wilks
- Legend
- Posts: 21897
- Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2012 10:02 pm
- Location: Lancashire
Rear light issues
Must have got it wrong , with 6 Zs this years + family motors i seem to be forever thereZ4M-2006 wrote:382/582 or double element 580....
£1 each..
i'l be over there again next week for my van MOT so will ask him
3 ZMRs
3 E89s
5 Si coupes
5 Si roadsters
997 C4
TTRS
F82 M4
MK7 Golf Gti
current Bmw 6 Gran Turismo
3 E89s
5 Si coupes
5 Si roadsters
997 C4
TTRS
F82 M4
MK7 Golf Gti
current Bmw 6 Gran Turismo
Rear light issues
I could be wrong but I believe they are capless and 955 or 921 bulbs ? 382 is capped for certain .Z4M-2006 wrote:382/582 or double element 580....
£1 each..
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- Lifer
- Posts: 7020
- Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2012 7:53 am
- Location: High Peak,Derbyshire.
Rear light issues
Yea the 582 is the capless of the 382...Thats what i meant..
Maybe different numbe/ref per manufacturer.....we use Wurth bulbs..
Or maybe i shouldnt have had a couple of pints on the way home..
Maybe different numbe/ref per manufacturer.....we use Wurth bulbs..
Or maybe i shouldnt have had a couple of pints on the way home..
Rear light issues
Yes maybe ! Again I could be wrong. But I thought that the 582 was 21w, the bulbs in mine are 16w and 10w , not 21wZ4M-2006 wrote:Yea the 582 is the capless of the 382...Thats what i meant..
Maybe different numbe/ref per manufacturer.....we use Wurth bulbs..
Or maybe i shouldnt have had a couple of pints on the way home..
-
- Lifer
- Posts: 4045
- Joined: Sat May 25, 2013 8:27 pm
- Location: Stourbridge
Rear light issues
My first and second attempt to seal to the lamp housing I used silicon sealant without success.
Finally after stripping off the sealant I used a liberal amount of Evo Stick glue and that finally sealed the units.
The cracking at the bottom is the within the Acrylic. Have seen this before on traffic light lenses and I have a Samsung tv with what they call the wine acrylic frame and that has developed the same stress cracking.
Finally after stripping off the sealant I used a liberal amount of Evo Stick glue and that finally sealed the units.
The cracking at the bottom is the within the Acrylic. Have seen this before on traffic light lenses and I have a Samsung tv with what they call the wine acrylic frame and that has developed the same stress cracking.
Rear light issues
I'm not a expert on this , but I managed a large commercial body shop for years , so I have some idea , but flexible silicone sealer should do the job if applied correctly , it needs to be a nice thick bead, about 4/5 mm , not a thin smear, and both surfaces need to be clean and dry for good adhesion , for a good seal .flybobbie wrote:My first and second attempt to seal to the lamp housing I used silicon sealant without success.
Finally after stripping off the sealant I used a liberal amount of Evo Stick glue and that finally sealed the units.
The cracking at the bottom is the within the Acrylic. Have seen this before on traffic light lenses and I have a Samsung tv with what they call the wine acrylic frame and that has developed the same stress cracking.
The lights cracking at the bottom edge could be caused by flexing as they do move ( BMW tech mentioned this to me ) as the roof operates , but it could also be that if water gets into the light through the seals it sits in the bottom of the light, and in cold weather it then freezes and cracks the bottom of the light . I've seen at least one this week that was completely detached from the grey section of the housing .
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- Lifer
- Posts: 4045
- Joined: Sat May 25, 2013 8:27 pm
- Location: Stourbridge
Rear light issues
Problem I found with silicon it doesn't seem to stick to the plastic BMW supplier (Magnetti) have used.
Cracking cause just a BMW excuse for cheap Acrylic.
I see they removed one bolt attachment.
Can't see how it flexes.
What we see could be craze cracking. I see it on aircraft canopies especially if an aircraft has been paint stripped with nitromors paint stripper. Which you should never do.
It attacks the plastic and cracks internally. The cracking is a reaction to the glue that has been used to bind the clear and red parts to the housing.
I think that they didn't really want to call back over 100k cars.
Acrylic is hard to mould, we had a Chinese supplier that didn't want to know, would only supply our product (Traffic light lense) in polycarbonate.
Cracking cause just a BMW excuse for cheap Acrylic.
I see they removed one bolt attachment.
Can't see how it flexes.
What we see could be craze cracking. I see it on aircraft canopies especially if an aircraft has been paint stripped with nitromors paint stripper. Which you should never do.
It attacks the plastic and cracks internally. The cracking is a reaction to the glue that has been used to bind the clear and red parts to the housing.
I think that they didn't really want to call back over 100k cars.
Acrylic is hard to mould, we had a Chinese supplier that didn't want to know, would only supply our product (Traffic light lense) in polycarbonate.
Rear light issues
I ordered a new lamp from ECP that arrived today , and the rear seal is slightly modified in that it now has screw down tabs on the goggle seal plate and as others have mentioned one less mounting fixing. I sealed the plate down again like others I have done and ran a bead of sealer around the external lens to housing joint before installation tomorrow .
Last edited by Dietcokeman on Mon Dec 19, 2016 9:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
- kinger
- Member
- Posts: 360
- Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2016 12:33 pm
Rear light issues
I had a new pair from ECP with the modified backgasket but i've just noticed today there is condensation on the inside of the nearside lamp, so that will have to be redone.
Mike
Mike
Current - E89 35is Saphire Black
Previous- E89 35i Space Grey
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- Lifer
- Posts: 4045
- Joined: Sat May 25, 2013 8:27 pm
- Location: Stourbridge
Rear light issues
Looks like the missing bolt has been removed for the extra screw to hold down the 'goggles' in the middle.
Probably not changed the foam seal material.
Anyone retro fitting these don't forget to blank off the hole in the body otherwise you will get a boot full of water.
Bulbs can be had from Halfords around the £3-4 mark for two.
I know because the first time I disturbed the housing, the bulbs blew on refitting.
Probably not changed the foam seal material.
Anyone retro fitting these don't forget to blank off the hole in the body otherwise you will get a boot full of water.
Bulbs can be had from Halfords around the £3-4 mark for two.
I know because the first time I disturbed the housing, the bulbs blew on refitting.