Standard Hifi - Tweeter Upgrade

[Maniac]

Thought I'd add this in here from my experience of installing tweeters into my e89...

First off, get a set of cheap plastic panel/trim removal tools, they'll save you a lot of money as they'll prevent you hacking your trim or paint.

To remove the quarterlight (the empty bit of plastic where the tweeters will go) simply pull the rubber trim above the quarterlight back and you'll see a small piece of the cover plastic inserted into an inverse V metal clip. Simply place a trim removal tool of suitable size in here and gently prise while wiggling the trim. It will gradually work loose and simply come away. Just this one fastener here. While they're off, simply click the tweeters into the plastic quarterlight and replace the foam that you'll have taken out first. The tweeters will only go in one way around so check the slots and bits that stick out to ensure it slots in nicely and will not rattle loose later. Once the tweeters are mounted, push the quarterlight back into place ensuring its nicely aligned with the rubbers around it, leaving the tweeter wire dangling from between the plastic and foam.

Now locate the torx bolts in the doors, on the passenger side, two of these are behind the main door handle, just prise off the outer leather handle cover with the trim removal tools to expose them.

Then remove the cap of a torx screw where the door pull/open handle is, its an oval piece of plastic, tack should help you pull it off, or for me, a finger nail and then coax it out with any thin object like a jewelers screw driver.

The last torx on the passenger side is under another plastic cover inside the fold down storage compartment towards the outermost edge of the door (lock edge). Use the same technique as above.

On the drivers side, as there's no door shut handle, the bolts are under the arm rest where the window switches are, they're already exposed.

Next simply unscrew each torx bolt, and place somewhere safe.

Now you'll need the trim removal tools again, get a wide blade tool and place between the outermost/lower part of the door trim and the metal of the door itself and prise. Eventually a loud POP will be heard, this is the first of many pop fasteners around the door trim, roughly one every 4 inches. Work your way around underneath, popping the remaining fasteners. Those trim removal tools have already paid for themselves.

You should have the bottom 3/4 of the panel loose now. To prise away the top part of the panel from the main door, simply grasp the outermost (lock edge) / upper edge of the door panel and pull away from the door. They are metal V shaped clips that slot into the door panel like hands in a letterbox.

The door panel should now come away. Be careful as the door open/lock button on the top of the door panel will likely fall away and swing down, keep an eye on this for later. The door panel will still be linked by the wiring and door pull cables, so place something on the floor under the door you're working on to keep it raised so it doesn't dangle and damage any cables. There's a small white piece of plastic that holds the cables to the door near the speaker, use a trim removal tool to pop this out as it will free the cables making access easier.

Next locate the mid range speaker. More torx bolts. Remove these three bolts and the speaker will come loose. Find some way of keeping the tweeter wire away from surfaces where it might rattle. I wound the wire around the existing loom that runs from the mirror to the door, then put a little tape around that to ensure no or minimal surface for any budding rattles. Leave just enough spare wire to reach the mid range speaker.

On the back of the mid range speaker is a spare connector, put the connector for the tweeter in here, it requires a little force and will click when in. It will only fit one way.

Now put back the torx bolts into the speaker and tighten. Next pop the plastic plug from the wiring loom back into the mount near the speaker to ensure no rattles from the loom.

Now ensure that the open/locked button on the top of the door panel (its on the end of a piece of stiff wire) is slotted back into the hole at the top of the door panel, then align the top of the door panel and push the panel back onto the clips. Do this for all clips along the top of the panel first to make life easier.

Next press back all the pop fasteners by pressing around the door panel edge, from one side down to the bottom then back up the other edge.

Your new tweeters are now fitted and ready to go. I'm finding the sound a little harsh at the moment, but I'm hoping once they're run in a little they'll sweeten up.

If not, then the mid range will likely get replaced too! lol The key to it all is being slow and careful. Once you've done one door, you'll likely do the other in half the time. If anyone finds a hole in my instructions let me know and I'll update them.

[Andrew*Debbie]

Good write up.

How much did the tweeters cost you?

Do you have a cross over capacitor between the tweeter and midrange? There might be one in the stock wiring harness. A capacitor might also be integrated with the tweeter.

If not, that might explain the harshness you are hearing.

[Maniac]

The cap is included in the wiring to the tweeter. I think the set of tweeters set me back around £60. Having done a realoem on the parts, the hifi version that includes the tweeters has also different part numbers for the other main drivers that differ from the part numbers of the stock system drivers. That makes me think that the slight imbalance in tone (correctable to some extent in the Tone settings) is down to the tweeters being set up for different drivers. I'm happy enough with the sound now though as I've better things to spend my money on (like a great old retro hi fi setup I'm putting together at home!)...

[Andrew*Debbie]

Another possibility why your system sounds so harsh ---

The head unit EQ is set for a 2-way system with no tweeters. If true they've boosted the highs way up. If I'm guessing right you might be able to fix it with a coding change.


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[Maniac]

Who knows really.. I figure it's a different head unit/amp given it would be driving many more speakers than the stock setup therefore it's a whole upgrade required really. Not that fussed, it's good enough for the amount of time I'm in the car.

[smiffy]

Hi Maniac,

I'm new to the forum, so apologies if I've missed other postings on this subject.

I presume you have the basic speaker system in your car and have just added the tweeters? Is that correct, or have you also changed the amp (which is someething that a number of other people seem to be talking about on various forums)?

I'm keen to hear opinions on exactly 'how far to go' with upgrading from the basic speaker set-up. My 35i has a high spec (including navigation) apart from the sound system which is a bit disappointing. I'd also be grateful for details of companies who can carry out the upgrade for me.

[Maniac]

Just the tweeters, which have made enough of a difference. I don't have the time or patience to pull the car apart to make it louder still when it's loud enough for me.

[smiffy]

Thanks. Me neither, which is why I was happy to pay someone else to do it!

It's good to hear that the tweeters have obviously made a significant difference though, so I may give it a go. Did you get them from the BMW dealer or another source?

[Maniac]

BMW Dealer, I think they were about £60 give or take. You'd also need a trim set to remove the door panels, its quite a scary experience on such an expensive car, but it went smoothly, and the second door takes less than half the time of the first as you've worked out how to remove everything by then.

[Andrew*Debbie]

What door trim took kit did you use?

Facom CR.D5 is a plastic 5 piece set that looks like a possibility.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FACOM-CR-D5-A ... 594wt_1066

Same thing in blue and Sealy branded:

http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Equipm ... 5pc-304193


This is another possibility:

http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Equipm ... 2pc-306665

[Maniac]

The Sealy one I believe. I've nearly ruined one tool of the set doing it, but better that than damage the car in any way. You only really need the smaller wedge and puller but its handy to have the whole set.

[ZedFourM]

Save yourself some money and get a set of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280860075731

£1.99 including delivery, and perfectly fit for purpose!

[Andrew*Debbie]

I added a tweeter to the driver's door yesterday. Hopefully I'll get the passenger side today. The instructions were very helpful.




Initially I missread one item in Manics instructions. There are 4 torx screws on the drivers door. One T30 behind the door pull, two smaller screws in the storage compartment and another T30 behind a plastic cover in the storage compartment. The smaller screws were either T20s T25s. Don't remember anymore.

I managed to loose the door lock button for a while. Fortunately it stayed in the furniture pad I had placed under the door.

[Maniac]

Glad I could help. Let me know which part of the instructions might be improved for reading and I'll update them.

[Andrew*Debbie]

I just finished the passenger side. Easy and the instructions were perfect. Passenger side is easier than the driver's. The four screws in the passenger door are all T30s.

The mid-range speakers are held in with 3 T20 screws.

Let me know which part of the instructions might be improved for reading and I'll update them.

I'd change this

On the drivers side, as there's no door shut handle, the bolts are under the arm rest where the window switches are, they're already exposed.

To this:

On the drivers side, as there's no door shut handle, the two bolts are under the arm rest where the window switches are. They're already exposed. The fourth bolt is under a plastic cover just like the passenger side.