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Any Hive Heating experts

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Any Hive Heating experts

Post by markplant » Tue Sep 19, 2017 10:39 am

I did have a issue with a motion sensor and a active plug but it was sorted quickly by DM on Twitter
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Any Hive Heating experts

Post by 85genius » Tue Sep 19, 2017 10:42 am

The battery thing is a common fault with the thermostat and they usually swap em for free, but as you said you got cover from British gas get em out to have a look
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Post by TitanTim » Tue Sep 19, 2017 11:59 am

Thanks again everyone :thumbsup: I've rebooked British Gas to come out tomorrow now as couldn't get the boiler to fire up at all this morning, I did run the hot water off to see if that would work and it did and boiler fired up and heated the water. When I have some time later today I'll swap the Hive thermostat unit over for a new one.

I've found Hive to be quite frustrating when there are problems like there was with an App update the other weekend as both the App and online dashboard were down . They're supposed to have a status update page on their website but they never post any problems so you normally have to go on Twitter or Facebook to see all the complaints then you know there's an ussue. If you don't get updates from Hive if they're system is down then you start suspecting it's the hardware , boiler, pump etc.

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Post by MJJamieson » Tue Sep 19, 2017 2:57 pm

It will be the actuator head, there's a micro switch which switches on the boiler and if its not making wont bring it on. The hive ( or any thermostat ) only operates the valve and the signal to the fire the boiler comes from the switch in the valve.
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Post by Wrs » Tue Sep 19, 2017 7:59 pm

Apologies Tim - I misinformed you last night. I checked the paperwork after reading the post above and it was after replacing the part in the photo attached which fixed my Hive/boiler problem (similar to what you are experiencing). Hopefully this helps.
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Post by TitanTim » Tue Sep 19, 2017 8:07 pm

Wrs wrote: Tue Sep 19, 2017 7:59 pm Apologies Tim - I misinformed you last night. I checked the paperwork after reading the post above and it was after replacing the part in the photo attached which fixed my Hive/boiler problem (similar to what you are experiencing). Hopefully this helps.
No problem and thank you for clarifying :)

I swapped over the Hive thermostat for a new one earlier and hasn't made any difference which I thought it wouldn't so the boiler wouldn't fire up when turning the heating on. I reset the hot water schedules and boiler came on at 5pm and heated the water up ok.

I'll ask the gas engineer to look at the actuator head first off :)

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Post by TitanTim » Tue Sep 19, 2017 8:09 pm

MJJamieson wrote: Tue Sep 19, 2017 2:57 pm It will be the actuator head, there's a micro switch which switches on the boiler and if its not making wont bring it on. The hive ( or any thermostat ) only operates the valve and the signal to the fire the boiler comes from the switch in the valve.
Many thanks, I'm hoping thats all it will be :)

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Post by Silverzedtom » Tue Sep 19, 2017 8:21 pm

Heating engineer here :D

MJJamieson is right it will be the 3 port. The valve has probably stuck over the summer when heating demand hasn't been there and it's keeping the micro switch open.

Make sure they change the complete valve and not just the head. whilst you can un-stick them by taking the head off and using a spanner to free up the valve it will only re occur. A lot of plumbers will just change the head as it avoids draining down.

Also make sure they re fill the system using inhibitor to protect rads and boiler.
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Post by Silverzedtom » Tue Sep 19, 2017 8:22 pm

It's a good idea to run the heating a couple of times a month during the summer even if it's only for ten minutes just to keep things ticking over :thumbsup:
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Post by TitanTim » Tue Sep 19, 2017 8:40 pm

Silverzedtom wrote: Tue Sep 19, 2017 8:21 pm Heating engineer here :D

MJJamieson is right it will be the 3 port. The valve has probably stuck over the summer when heating demand hasn't been there and it's keeping the micro switch open.

Make sure they change the complete valve and not just the head. whilst you can un-stick them by taking the head off and using a spanner to free up the valve it will only re occur. A lot of plumbers will just change the head as it avoids draining down.

Also make sure they re fill the system using inhibitor to protect rads and boiler.
Thanks ever so much tom, starting to feel a little more reasured now, good tip about running the heating occasionally through the summer, I do actually do this usually 1st of each month so long as its not a boiling hot day just to keep it ticking over and its been fine, it was all working fine a few days ago. I'm relieved the boiler is still firing up ok for the hot water as don't fancy changing it just yet as its located in the middle of the house and doesn't have a condensing pipe which might be a pain when the time comes as theres no real alternative boiler location.

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Post by Silverzedtom » Tue Sep 19, 2017 10:07 pm

Sounds like the boilers fine :thumbsup:

When the time eventually comes for a new boiler the condense won't be a problem. A condense pump can go under the boiler with a small 10mm hose that can pick up a waste somewhere. There will most likely be a vent going up through the attic, or could be fished down a boxing from the loft or even under boards to a waste pipe.
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Post by TitanTim » Tue Sep 19, 2017 10:23 pm

Silverzedtom wrote: Tue Sep 19, 2017 10:07 pm Sounds like the boilers fine :thumbsup:

When the time eventually comes for a new boiler the condense won't be a problem. A condense pump can go under the boiler with a small 10mm hose that can pick up a waste somewhere. There will most likely be a vent going up through the attic, or could be fished down a boxing from the loft or even under boards to a waste pipe.
Thanks again tom, the boiler is a Glow Worm and is 16 years old, only thing thats needed replacement is the fan up to now. When I had it serviced last Feb the gas engineer said don't change it as the older boilers of this era tend to go wrong less often as they don't have the more complicated pcb boards, don't know how true that is. I've been told about a pump for the condensate so probably won't be as bad as I'm thinking.

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Post by ronk » Tue Sep 19, 2017 11:39 pm

I might be missing the point of these remote controlled systems - but what's wrong with setting a timer and thermostat ?
How would I benifit if I installed a system - Im genuinely interested but would like to think I would feel better or save.
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Post by craig3.2 » Wed Sep 20, 2017 12:12 am

TitanTim wrote: Mon Sep 18, 2017 11:30 pm
craig3.2 wrote: Mon Sep 18, 2017 11:19 pm Personally,Hive has known to start eating batteries if signal is an issue.
I favour Nest,as ,in my experience,have been less problematic.
Only fitted few of each,mind,but Both are generally ok.

The Next Smoke/C.o detectors are also rather nice,on a side note :D

Hope you get it sorted ok,op :thumbsup:
Thanks Craig, I've got a replacement Hive Thermostat so I might swap them over tomorrow. I was wandering if it was the themostat that had gone faulty but as said I'm hoping its the diverter valve. I'm with British Gas Homecare so it will be a free fix anyways :)

I do have the Nest smoke detector and thats been great especially when it talks to you :)

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Yes,the Nest smoke/c.o detector combined unit is rather fun,and good,if overpriced for what it is.
First one I fitted of these was in my mates house down south,when rewiring it......Nest were none too helpfully at first as they wanted their approved installer to fit it all....now you can buy them at various wholesalers.
Nice kit though
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Post by craig3.2 » Wed Sep 20, 2017 12:15 am

ronk wrote: Tue Sep 19, 2017 11:39 pm I might be missing the point of these remote controlled systems - but what's wrong with setting a timer and thermostat ?
How would I benifit if I installed a system - Im genuinely interested but would like to think I would feel better or save.
It's all about controlling it from a laptop or mobile.
And they are rather fancy and nice looking,but not cheap.
£100 for a Nest smoke/c.o unit,plus wiring and install costs.

Downside is they rely on good internet ,etc which isn't always the case.......and they can be hacked,so in theory, some computer whizz could take control of your heating,etc,haha
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