TomK wrote: βFri Nov 10, 2017 8:30 pmThe correct solution for that problem, but it's a bit severe.Beedub wrote: βFri Nov 10, 2017 8:23 pm i run -2.7 with the billet top mounts and a combo of the shims i do it this way, because the window in the strut top is so small that the camber plates aren't that usable without pulling the damper anyway, which is still abit of a pain considering how easy it should be with plates and the solid top end,
welding plate.jpg
Welding-plates
We also have welding-plates which you can weld in the domes of the vehicle.
You have then to cut off the original domes and replace it by the thicker (5mm thick) welding plates. Because these plates are flat, you get more adjustment range for the camber and caster. Also, the car is a lot stronger and prevents the domes from tearing.
great solution but i really didn't want to cut the chassis and weld these in... i got the camber at a happy medium for my use, the -2.5 area really work well on this car and combined with spirited driving tyre wear isn't anywhere near as bad as you'd expect. Turn in is lovely, razor sharp, with my additional widen track the old girl feel stable as hell.
i really should start to experiment abit more with the rebound and compression but i CBA. i put in KW recommended Nurburg settings and pretty much left it alone so far, the car is so well controlled....