Not joined yet? Register for free and enjoy features such as alerts, private messaging and viewing latest posts and topics.

Worth a punt?

"M" Specific discussion
john-e89
Lifer
Lifer
Posts: 11024
Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:27 pm

Worth a punt?

Post by john-e89 » Wed Feb 22, 2017 12:10 pm

Hey,

Assuming you could bag this for 9k after a road test and a good listen to the engine and as far as you can tell it's good, buy it then get the vanos checked, do a compression test, pop the sump and con rod ends off, check the crank and bearings for wear and address any issues before potential failure, it would make a great track car or road car no? If the servicing checks out and it sounds good is there any reason it shouldn't go on for another 70k + easily?

Just seems an opportunity for a possible cheap M, I'm struggling to see why just because it's leggy that it's not worth buying.

Any thoughts?

BMW Z4M 3.2 2dr
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/ ... friend_car
M roady...OEM CSL’s, strut brace, Remus back boxes, ZHP
MR2 MK 2
E89 35i project car...mapped 365bhp, M4 stoppers & wheels, KWV3’s, H&R front ARB, M3 front arms, strut brace Eisenmann cat back race exhaust, VRSF downpipes inbound
E89 35is
G29

User avatar
Chris_D
Lifer
Lifer
Posts: 6615
Joined: Thu Apr 21, 2016 11:41 pm
Location: Mostly Holland. Sometimes UK.

Worth a punt?

Post by Chris_D » Wed Feb 22, 2017 12:31 pm

Go for it John!
My E46 M3 (same engine) was still pulling strong at 120k miles. It had benefitted from a top end rebuild however by the previous owner including shrick cams and new bearing shells and conrods, refreshed VANOS and other bits and bobs.
Valve adjustments should be checked/adjusted every 40k miles or so. I bought mine with a mainseal oil leak which was a b@stard to rectify.
Got 270k miles out of another bimmer without any major issues too!

I think you should def do ur homework and still get it inspected by a BMW indy if you can before purchase. Might be cheap to buy but could end up easily being a moneypit if you miss some key things. Found out about the main seal bearing on the M3 this way and got it priced down accordingly.

Don't you have another 'project car' to finish when ur back on ur feet anyway?? blimey!
E85 3.0i roadie (03) 'Benny'. E93 320d M-Sport Cabrio (11) 'Bob'.
Image
'Always different, always the same.' John Peel on The Fall.

john-e89
Lifer
Lifer
Posts: 11024
Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:27 pm

Worth a punt?

Post by john-e89 » Wed Feb 22, 2017 12:51 pm

Chris_D wrote:Go for it John!
My E46 M3 (same engine) was still pulling strong at 120k miles. It had benefitted from a top end rebuild however by the previous owner including shrick cams and new bearing shells and conrods, refreshed VANOS and other bits and bobs.
Valve adjustments should be checked/adjusted every 40k miles or so. I bought mine with a mainseal oil leak which was a b@stard to rectify.
Got 270k miles out of another bimmer without any major issues too!

I think you should def do ur homework and still get it inspected by a BMW indy if you can before purchase. Might be cheap to buy but could end up easily being a moneypit if you miss some key things. Found out about the main seal bearing on the M3 this way and got it priced down accordingly.

Don't you have another 'project car' to finish when ur back on ur feet anyway?? blimey!
I'd do the valve adjustment myself I think Chris, just a matter of being methodical and taking time over it, I've done them before although admittedly not on an M engine. Anything can break at any time on any car, If there's nothing obviously wrong with it on inspection, leaks etc, it could be a good fun car for a few years.
M roady...OEM CSL’s, strut brace, Remus back boxes, ZHP
MR2 MK 2
E89 35i project car...mapped 365bhp, M4 stoppers & wheels, KWV3’s, H&R front ARB, M3 front arms, strut brace Eisenmann cat back race exhaust, VRSF downpipes inbound
E89 35is
G29

JAD

Worth a punt?

Post by JAD » Wed Feb 22, 2017 1:11 pm

john-e89 wrote:I'd do the valve adjustment myself I think Chris, just a matter of being methodical and taking time over it, I've done them before although admittedly not on an M engine. Anything can break at any time on any car, If there's nothing obviously wrong with it on inspection, leaks etc, it could be a good fun car for a few years.
My 2p worth - as you clearly know what you're doing around maintenance yourself, I'd go for it. However, will someone think the same when you come to sell it... high miles may well be fine during your ownership but it'd put a large % of potential future buyers off, so could you be stuck with it?

john-e89
Lifer
Lifer
Posts: 11024
Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:27 pm

Worth a punt?

Post by john-e89 » Wed Feb 22, 2017 1:39 pm

JAD wrote:
john-e89 wrote:I'd do the valve adjustment myself I think Chris, just a matter of being methodical and taking time over it, I've done them before although admittedly not on an M engine. Anything can break at any time on any car, If there's nothing obviously wrong with it on inspection, leaks etc, it could be a good fun car for a few years.
My 2p worth - as you clearly know what you're doing around maintenance yourself, I'd go for it. However, will someone think the same when you come to sell it... high miles may well be fine during your ownership but it'd put a large % of potential future buyers off, so could you be stuck with it?
That's the sticky thing with it yes Jad, it's obviously why it hasn't sold, unless it's hiding something only spotted on inspection, I'd probably do 12k in it in 3 years, so approx 150k if I sold after that time span.
M roady...OEM CSL’s, strut brace, Remus back boxes, ZHP
MR2 MK 2
E89 35i project car...mapped 365bhp, M4 stoppers & wheels, KWV3’s, H&R front ARB, M3 front arms, strut brace Eisenmann cat back race exhaust, VRSF downpipes inbound
E89 35is
G29

User avatar
maxman
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 2821
Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2010 11:34 pm
Location: Wrexham

Worth a punt?

Post by maxman » Wed Feb 22, 2017 2:10 pm

Are you feeling better or just bored :D
To me it makes more sense to buy a lower mileage z4m.These are holding their value if in good condition with all paperwork correct.Buying the one listed could cost a lot of money in a short time as well selling on could be a problem.

User avatar
Jollyjoiner
Senior Member
Senior Member
Posts: 2008
Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2014 9:32 am
Location: Chesterfield

Worth a punt?

Post by Jollyjoiner » Wed Feb 22, 2017 2:19 pm

Just buy it John and then track it......you know makes sense :driving: :thumbsup:
2009 35i DCT silver
SLT mapped to 365bhp :)

User avatar
tomscott
Lifer
Lifer
Posts: 7466
Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2011 12:26 pm
Location: Manchester
Contact:

Worth a punt?

Post by tomscott » Wed Feb 22, 2017 2:20 pm

From the advert is says 9 stamps on a car with 130k with an oil every 12k that's 11 not including run in so should probably have 12.

If your going to do all the work to it then sounds like a great project! Would love to have the confidence to be able to do something like that :thumbsup: at 9k whats the worst that could happen but I think I would be going a little lower still. Having the bores inspected would tell you a lot whether its sitting at 70mph on the motorway or its been driven hard.

May have just been a motor way machine! worth a look, paint looks ok from the images bit of a mark on the driver side grill but the images aren't high quality, some glyptone on the leather would do it a treat.

Did most of its milage from 10th March 2010 (55k) and 7th March 2011 (83k) would be interesting to see if it had an insp and oil service in this time. Other than that consistent average milage every year between 6-12k.

From its history it failed its MOT twice once in march 2012
notes being offset and near front disc warn, offset and near pad warn, brakes imbalanced and O/S tyre wearing on inside.

and again in april 2015 at 123,162
notes being supplementary restraint system warning lamp indicating a fault and front headlamp cleaning device inoperative.

MOTd may 4th 2016 at 130,295 an under tray was fitted.

Pretty much every MOT has the car with brake advisories.

Nothing major.

But cars with 60k have been offered recently for 13-14k with room to haggle. I would say these show better value for money as you have to include potential parts and issues etc.

john-e89
Lifer
Lifer
Posts: 11024
Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:27 pm

Worth a punt?

Post by john-e89 » Wed Feb 22, 2017 2:35 pm

maxman wrote:Are you feeling better or just bored :D
To me it makes more sense to buy a lower mileage z4m.These are holding their value if in good condition with all paperwork correct.Buying the one listed could cost a lot of money in a short time as well selling on could be a problem.
It would be a project car / weekend car Maxman, until I have some solid news on the length of my lung problem I don't know if I'm keeping the 35is or not. I've been looking at 3.0si's but I fancy an M again, but either way I don't want to go over 10k and this seems an option. I take your points though, all food for thought. :thumbsup:
M roady...OEM CSL’s, strut brace, Remus back boxes, ZHP
MR2 MK 2
E89 35i project car...mapped 365bhp, M4 stoppers & wheels, KWV3’s, H&R front ARB, M3 front arms, strut brace Eisenmann cat back race exhaust, VRSF downpipes inbound
E89 35is
G29

mmm-five
Lifer
Lifer
Posts: 12714
Joined: Sun Nov 30, 2008 1:03 pm
Location: Liverpool
Contact:

Worth a punt?

Post by mmm-five » Wed Feb 22, 2017 2:47 pm

Mine is at slightly higher mileage (152,000), and gets 14,000 miles between servicing. Though it is a coupe, so that may make LOTS of difference :P

Sitting on the motorway for a good trip every week really helps with the fuel economy too, but anyone who's been out with me will tell you I don't drive slowly when I get the chance, and it also does regular Welsh/Cumbrian/Yorkshire hoons and track/ring trips.

I'd be checking that everything that's worn out has been replaced by now, as at that mileage I'd expect a clutch and/or flywheel to have been needed, or needed shortly - and that's a £3k genuine job, or half that with OEM parts (LUK).

Mines also had plenty of discs & pads, so they should not need doing - and mine's also had 2 diffs (£3k - one warranty, one accident damage), 2 rear trailing arms (£1k each), and new suspension all round (£2k for aftermarket B16 PSS10). So make sure your budget includes a bit of spare cash for things like that.

I'm not saying a 80,000 mile model at £14k would not also need these things, but it's more likely with the high mile version, even if like mine extra general maintenance has been done.
Trigger’s Z4MC
Some bits now over 163,000 miles, some less than 1,000 miles.
Individual Ruby Black, Individual extended champagne leather, plus many options

Image

john-e89
Lifer
Lifer
Posts: 11024
Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:27 pm

Worth a punt?

Post by john-e89 » Wed Feb 22, 2017 2:59 pm

tomscott wrote:From the advert is says 9 stamps on a car with 130k with an oil every 12k that's 11 not including run in so should probably have 12.

If your going to do all the work to it then sounds like a great project! Would love to have the confidence to be able to do something like that :thumbsup: at 9k whats the worst that could happen but I think I would be going a little lower still. Having the bores inspected would tell you a lot whether its sitting at 70mph on the motorway or its been driven hard.

May have just been a motor way machine! worth a look, paint looks ok from the images bit of a mark on the driver side grill but the images aren't high quality, some glyptone on the leather would do it a treat.

Did most of its milage from 10th March 2010 (55k) and 7th March 2011 (83k) would be interesting to see if it had an insp and oil service in this time. Other than that consistent average milage every year between 6-12k.

From its history it failed its MOT twice once in march 2012
notes being offset and near front disc warn, offset and near pad warn, brakes imbalanced and O/S tyre wearing on inside.

and again in april 2015 at 123,162
notes being supplementary restraint system warning lamp indicating a fault and front headlamp cleaning device inoperative.

MOTd may 4th 2016 at 130,295 an under tray was fitted.

Pretty much every MOT has the car with brake advisories.

Nothing major.

But cars with 60k have been offered recently for 13-14k with room to haggle. I would say these show better value for money as you have to include potential parts and issues etc.
Cheers Tom. Take your point on the 60k cars but 13-14k is too much really just now. Ok say I could bag it for 8-8.5k, sell for 7k in a couple of years I could live with that, and this one doesn't necessarily have to be any more problematic than a 14k car. They're all a potential money pit, but I don't mind taking the odd risk in life, if it works it works, if it kicks me it kicks me, I can do most of the mechanical stuff if I'm fit, it doesn't faze me really.
M roady...OEM CSL’s, strut brace, Remus back boxes, ZHP
MR2 MK 2
E89 35i project car...mapped 365bhp, M4 stoppers & wheels, KWV3’s, H&R front ARB, M3 front arms, strut brace Eisenmann cat back race exhaust, VRSF downpipes inbound
E89 35is
G29

User avatar
tomscott
Lifer
Lifer
Posts: 7466
Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2011 12:26 pm
Location: Manchester
Contact:

Worth a punt?

Post by tomscott » Wed Feb 22, 2017 3:52 pm

I would say that the z4m is for a specific buyer as is and would say that 99% wont work on their cars so it needs a specific buyer and would suggest that's why its still for sale along with the potential costs. If a lot of things need doing like outlined by M5 you could well spend 3-5k on parts, if you weren't to do the work yourself then how much is the labour on that lot too!? Which would make the purchase pointless as you will never see it back and with 150+k you might end up stuck with it. With that in mind a lower mileage one maybe a better option. But these cars are old and will need the money spent on them sooner than later. But then the paperwork may suggest its had work done.

From the MOT work if the brakes are being run all the way down and warping on a regular basis like the MOT history suggests I would assume the other more expensive jobs are less likely to have been done.

I'm sure these engines can reach and probably surpass 200k but at what cost? Lets be fair how much potential life is a buyer going to see in the car in a few years time regardless of how rare they are. Unless it a complete love afair with the car to keep it on the road and have an endless wallet. I don't think it makes that much economical sense.

At the same time not much on the road will give you that kind of enjoyment for 9k.

Paulwirral
Member
Member
Posts: 914
Joined: Sat May 17, 2014 8:28 am

Worth a punt?

Post by Paulwirral » Wed Feb 22, 2017 4:23 pm

The old saying is " there's an arse for every seat , especially if it's a cheap one " I can't imagine anyone who would come to buy that car in 3 years time would be put off by self servicing as long as you keep all your receipts , it's not like your going to buy the parts and bin them because you can't be bothered to fit them :D your probably better qualified in mechanics than the service manager at your local main dealers , full main dealer service history was invented by main dealers at px time :lol:
Anyone in the market for that type of car will have their eyes wide open when purchasing and know what they are doing , cat d and mileage don't bother people who know what they looking for .
I'd say buy it and enjoy it , that's what I did with my old z3m coupe cat d .

User avatar
buzyg
Legend
Legend
Posts: 26421
Joined: Fri May 20, 2011 6:11 pm
Location: Cornwall

Worth a punt?

Post by buzyg » Wed Feb 22, 2017 4:39 pm

Jollyjoiner wrote:Just buy it John and then track it......you know makes sense :driving: :thumbsup:
Don't do this.

I would only buy a car with high miles if I was planning to put low miles on it, and drive it sensibly'ish. That way you hopefully get years of fun out of it. You presumably what some return for your 10k and tracking a leggy car will most likely blew something expensive up. So only do that with a shed you payed <5k for.

John's original premise fits.
Image

Paulwirral
Member
Member
Posts: 914
Joined: Sat May 17, 2014 8:28 am

Worth a punt?

Post by Paulwirral » Wed Feb 22, 2017 5:12 pm

Apply some man maths into the problem , buy it for 9k , keep it for 3 years , 3k a year is probably what he suffers depreciation on his current car ! It's a free car after 3 years :driving: barring running costs but we all have them regardless what car we have and anyone can be unlucky with mechanical woes .
You know it makes sense .

Post Reply