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Posted: **Tue Sep 12, 2017 7:02 pm**

ph001 wrote: ↑Tue Sep 12, 2017 4:48 pmIn fact I found that checking them first thing in the morning (7'C) and then again in the middle of the afternoon (approx 18'C) is enough to move them from the centre to the end of the specified range. The window really is that small which is why BMW state that it must be done at a specific workshop temperature (20'C IIRC). Given they then run at 90'C during normal operation you can extrapolate that the design margin must be pretty large.

That's interesting and makes sense.

Well done for doing them yourself! Think I'll go down that route at some point.

Posted: **Tue Sep 12, 2017 8:03 pm**

Yeh it's not hard at all but you do need to be quite diligent. The only faff is the stupid jubilee clips on the inlet manifold. What a pain they are. Everything else is very straight forward, just make sure you have some good quality vernier calipers and a decent selection of shims. They are not expensive.

Posted: **Sat Sep 30, 2017 1:44 pm**

Doesn't sound like anything. If it were rod bearings you would know it very quickly. Even if its top end, which it does not sound like it is as the noise should increase with rpm, your very unlikely to cause significant damage. Although if your worried just go see a Indy. I worry about all sorts of noises however have come to accept this car is very noisy and you would know if something goes wrong.

Posted: **Sat Sep 30, 2017 2:51 pm**

firebobby wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2017 7:42 pm Why did BMW build such a fickle engine, reminds me of the Triumph Stag in the early years. These engine issues and the sky high road tax just don't appeal to me on the M cars.

I'll bite too

I agree about the road tax

The engine however is superb, I see them raced every month in E46 M3 with no engine failures that I can remember in the last 5 years (30 min qually and 40 minute races). Most of them have standard internals save for rod bolts (ARP) and bearing shells every year or two years as a precaution. These are race winning cars. I compare this with most other makes and models that race at the front of the grids and most have to uprate crank, rods, pistons, cams and more and even then they break.
It's impossible to know what percentage of Z4M have worn their engines sufficient that replacement parts were needed but I have a strong opinion that it is considerably less than the equivalent Porsche engine. When the followers or bearing shells have needed replacement at least they haven't damaged the block or head in the process.
For a road car engine producing more than 100bhp per litre, revving to 8000rpm with a wide range of care and treatment I think they are pretty tough.
Just IMO, will take you for a spin in mine next time we meet

Posted: **Sat Sep 30, 2017 6:34 pm**

Fishy Dave wrote: ↑Sat Sep 30, 2017 2:51 pm
firebobby wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2017 7:42 pm Why did BMW build such a fickle engine, reminds me of the Triumph Stag in the early years. These engine issues and the sky high road tax just don't appeal to me on the M cars.
I'll bite too
I agree about the road tax
The engine however is superb, I see them raced every month in E46 M3 with no engine failures that I can remember in the last 5 years (30 min qually and 40 minute races). Most of them have standard internals save for rod bolts (ARP) and bearing shells every year or two years as a precaution. These are race winning cars. I compare this with most other makes and models that race at the front of the grids and most have to uprate crank, rods, pistons, cams and more and even then they break.
It's impossible to know what percentage of Z4M have worn their engines sufficient that replacement parts were needed but I have a strong opinion that it is considerably less than the equivalent Porsche engine. When the followers or bearing shells have needed replacement at least they haven't damaged the block or head in the process.
For a road car engine producing more than 100bhp per litre, revving to 8000rpm with a wide range of care and treatment I think they are pretty tough.
Just IMO, will take you for a spin in mine next time we meet

Don't come on here biting people, I've enough teeth marks in my R send

May take you up on a spin though at the AV8 next weekend

Posted: **Mon Oct 02, 2017 4:05 pm**

Ok the update isn't much, I've had it to 2 different indy's and one of them could not hear anything. The other one did hear what I hear but had no clue as to what it is.. They did say the new rod bearings were prob not to blame, as per the fact the "rattle" is only at idle and goes away with revs. They could also hear some VANOS & waterpump noise so they advised me to do the VANOS overhaul I'm planning this winter, then listen again next year.

Thanx for all input!

Posted: **Fri Oct 20, 2017 9:44 pm**

Sounds like bottom end to me.

Posted: **Fri Oct 20, 2017 10:32 pm**

Ear plugs in you can definately hear a knock, keep us posted please OP.

Posted: **Fri Dec 21, 2018 10:46 am**

Hello ph001, or anyone who's done the Valve clearance check and shim replacement themselves.

1. Is it really as complex to do as many (including BMW) make out to be?

2. What special tools to you need, apart from the plastic tool with the magnet to remove the old and deposot the new shims in place?

3. Where do you source the replacement shims from? Any specific brand? Retailer? OEM BMW?

4. Is it possible to purchase individual shims in the required thicknesses?

Thanks in advanced.

Posted: **Sat Dec 22, 2018 10:25 pm**

Spaniarduk wrote: ↑Fri Dec 21, 2018 10:46 am Hello ph001, or anyone who's done the Valve clearance check and shim replacement themselves.

1. Is it really as complex to do as many (including BMW) make out to be?
Not complex at all as mentioned above

2. What special tools to you need, apart from the plastic tool with the magnet to remove the old and deposot the new shims in place?
You’ll ideally need the correct tool for the throttle body circlips. I made one by grinding an old crimp tool. You don’t need a special plastic tool with magnet, the shims come out very easily with just a magnetic screwdriver etc

3. Where do you source the replacement shims from? Any specific brand? Retailer? OEM BMW?
Yes, bmw oem.

4. Is it possible to purchase individual shims in the required thicknesses?
Yes, all available separately.

Thanks in advanced.

Posted: **Wed Jan 02, 2019 2:15 am**

I renewed the small Vanos oil filter last winter and the ticking 90% dissapearred.

Posted: **Mon Jan 07, 2019 6:47 pm**

Argenta wrote: ↑Wed Jan 02, 2019 2:15 am I renewed the small Vanos oil filter last winter and the ticking 90% dissapearred.

Did you find a clock stuck in the filter?

Seriously though, how would that fix the ticking? Did you do an oil change as well?

Posted: **Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:50 pm**

I dunno, it didn't seem very clogged up but I did change for the old Castrol 10w-60 (from Motul 10w-60).
Maybe all psychological!

Posted: **Tue Jan 08, 2019 2:51 pm**

Hej Argenta!
Well it might be what your indy diagnosed, the water pump.
A failing bearing for the water pump or the other tensioners and pullies along the serpentine belt, can make all kind of rattling and knocking sounds that may come and go.
Here are some examples:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5F9ATnv04A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bEgOXPRQvE

Posted: **Tue Jan 08, 2019 3:13 pm**

Argenta wrote: ↑Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:50 pm I dunno, it didn't seem very clogged up but I did change for the old Castrol 10w-60 (from Motul 10w-60).
Maybe all psychological!

Ah, well if you changed oil it's quite possible that something that was a bit sticky/under-lubricated freed up (although you'll probably never know what it was). Glad it's sorted, either way.

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Faint knocking? (Clip)

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