Z4-forum.com

Posted: **Thu Jan 27, 2022 8:49 pm**

You can unscrew the kinematics box a little bit just so it can wiggle around (do it one at a time), then open / close the roof once or twice, then screw it back in and it should adjust.

Posted: **Sat Jan 29, 2022 11:40 am**

Thanks,

I'll give that a go when I get time. I wonder if cycling the roof and boot while the screws were still a little loose hadn't been done; instead they had simply tightened up the screws with the kinematics box in roughly the same position as before.

The reason for asking was because I saw in the newTIS instructions for adjusting panel gaps states that manual adjustment of the kinematics box may be needed to achieve the optimum gapping.

Cheers!
Andy

Posted: **Tue Aug 09, 2022 11:41 am**

LordLolzeye,

Firstly, great post and very informative.
Alas this is something I'm now having to do. I have all the parts and special tools (£970 worth) and have printed this all out (14 A4 pages!!) and have printed the associated newTIS sections.
The boot is stripped as much as I can for now, just need to get the two side carpet sections and the plastic rear light covers out, but the roof needs to be in Service Mode for that.
Just got to find a decent day to perform this (I have no garage, so outdoors it will have to be), looking like I may have time in 3 weekends time, hopefully.

Looking forward to at least having my roof down for some of this summer

Wish me luck

Posted: **Mon Sep 05, 2022 8:03 am**

To anyone thinking of doing this work....... DON'T

Only kidding

Well mine is now done and complete, so I'm a happy bunny. This was to be done the previous weekend but one of the rear roof bolts was stuck solid so had to abandon that attempt and seek engineering assistance

So part way through the morning it looked something like this....

: 20220903_084609.jpg (196.8 KiB) Viewed 1821 times

And then about 7 hours later it looked a lot like this...

: 20220903_151318.jpg (171.39 KiB) Viewed 1821 times

Just needed the aligning doing at this point, but that was for Sunday and is now all sorted.
It is a long job and I'd suggest a certain level of mechanical awareness would be beneficial. It's also back breaking, frustrating and bloody awkward to do. I really wasn't looking forward to doing this one little bit, but considering how much this has saved me in labour costs then it is well worth all the hassle.
Would I recommend doing this yourself, well if you are mechanically minded and really don't mind getting stuck in then yes. BUT, this is not a job you can start and then feel it's not for you and get a mechanic to finish it, this is one job you are just going to have to see all the way through to the end.

So what are we replacing here....
Hydraulic hoses to all 6 rams (12 pipes)
Wires to almost all microswitches
2 microswitches (if your Z is an older one like mine is)
Wiring loom for the hydraulic pump complete (including the relay connection block)

Basically the whole lot excluding some of the microswitches themselves.
At the end of the day I looked at it like this, if one of my 12 hoses has split (however that may have occurred) and my Z is 11 years old, then any one of my other 11 may go at any point, coupled with this they all flex at the same rate along with the wiring loom to the microswitches. This is a very big job to do to replace one hose, so why not just bite the bullet and do the lot in one go, yes it is time consuming but to do it all at once is going to save you having to do it all again next time. So I'm pretty sure I won't have to do any of this again in what I consider will be the remainder of my ownership. Just my thought process

I have now found the culprit that was the leak in the first place, a slit in the pipe on the leading bend of the drivers side rear roof section...

: 20220903_090816.jpg (109.5 KiB) Viewed 1821 times

And a closer look...

: 20220903_090715.jpg (124.26 KiB) Viewed 1821 times

Really not sure how this has happened, it's not like it's a location that flexes every time you operate the roof, you can't access this location without removing the headlining, but it is exposed when you have the front roof shell repaired under warranty!!

I'd like to say a massive thank you to LordLolzeye for all of his efforts in producing this How-To, it has been invaluable in getting this work completed, thank you sir you are a legend

Posted: **Fri Feb 10, 2023 10:43 pm**

Great job!
I also have a hose leak. Unfortunately, I don't have time to replace everything. I was thinking of replacing the broken hose portion with a coupler ( https://cabriolethydraulics.com/hydraul ... -couplers/). Do you know where I can find a piece of an old system to salvage a piece of hose ?

Thanks guys

Posted: **Fri Apr 07, 2023 9:30 pm**

Yoh34 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 10, 2023 10:43 pm Great job!
I also have a hose leak. Unfortunately, I don't have time to replace everything. I was thinking of replacing the broken hose portion with a coupler ( https://cabriolethydraulics.com/hydraul ... -couplers/). Do you know where I can find a piece of an old system to salvage a piece of hose ?

Thanks guys

How did that coupler work out for you, @Yoh34?

Posted: **Sat Apr 08, 2023 8:22 am**

I haven't ordered the kit yet. I hope to have time to do it next month because the sun is coming!

Posted: **Tue May 16, 2023 4:54 pm**

Hi there,

I am having the following problem, maybe someone looking into this thread might know something?

here viewtopic.php?p=2004985#p2004985

Posted: **Mon Jun 19, 2023 5:31 pm**

Hello guys,
I have found this company in Europe. They purpose:
- a quick coupler to repare a leak
- a kit with 2 coupler and a part of hydraulic hose
- a custom hose with origin plug

https://shop.cabriotech.nl/en
https://shop.cabriotech.nl/en/collections/onderdelen

Posted: **Mon Aug 07, 2023 6:59 pm**

Hello there,

I need to change the hoses that go to up to the cylinders of the rear and front shells. Does anyone know the exact number?
I am trying not to remove them until I have received them. I can see that the number 21 goes to one of the shells but I cannot see the remaining 3. Does anyone have this information to share in this post please?

Thanks!

Max

Posted: **Mon Aug 07, 2023 7:09 pm**

Hello Dave,

can I ask you how you managed to pass through the new harness under the front shell ? did you remove it? or you loosened it?
there harness there does an elbow, so wondering how you passed the new harness through.
The z4 that already had the s676 is leaking, just found out whilst I was inspecting the sound system there!
I have NOT identified the source of the link but I found trails here and there in the roof storage area in the boot (along with the area behind the seat, which I still cannot understand how it could get soaked in hydraulic oil. But it s clear oil so it has to be from the roof system.
there are holes in the car frame (internally) so it could seep through from the boot area. the headlining is not oily, it seems.
viewtopic.php?p=2020838#p2020838
I will inspect the wiring as well and if worn I will replace in all of the elbows with industrial heavy duty 4000000 times bents guaranteed!

https://www.cabriolet-roof-hoses.com/bm ... roof-hoses
do you also happen to know the hose numbers of those going up to the shells?
I am buying from them so they want the number. I can see at least 21, so I would assume the cluster 21 through 24 to go the shell.

AnubisZed wrote: ↑Mon Sep 05, 2022 8:03 am To anyone thinking of doing this work....... DON'T
Only kidding

Well mine is now done and complete, so I'm a happy bunny. This was to be done the previous weekend but one of the rear roof bolts was stuck solid so had to abandon that attempt and seek engineering assistance

So part way through the morning it looked something like this....

20220903_084609.jpg

And then about 7 hours later it looked a lot like this...

20220903_151318.jpg

Just needed the aligning doing at this point, but that was for Sunday and is now all sorted.
It is a long job and I'd suggest a certain level of mechanical awareness would be beneficial. It's also back breaking, frustrating and bloody awkward to do. I really wasn't looking forward to doing this one little bit, but considering how much this has saved me in labour costs then it is well worth all the hassle.
Would I recommend doing this yourself, well if you are mechanically minded and really don't mind getting stuck in then yes. BUT, this is not a job you can start and then feel it's not for you and get a mechanic to finish it, this is one job you are just going to have to see all the way through to the end.

So what are we replacing here....
Hydraulic hoses to all 6 rams (12 pipes)
Wires to almost all microswitches
2 microswitches (if your Z is an older one like mine is)
Wiring loom for the hydraulic pump complete (including the relay connection block)

Basically the whole lot excluding some of the microswitches themselves.
At the end of the day I looked at it like this, if one of my 12 hoses has split (however that may have occurred) and my Z is 11 years old, then any one of my other 11 may go at any point, coupled with this they all flex at the same rate along with the wiring loom to the microswitches. This is a very big job to do to replace one hose, so why not just bite the bullet and do the lot in one go, yes it is time consuming but to do it all at once is going to save you having to do it all again next time. So I'm pretty sure I won't have to do any of this again in what I consider will be the remainder of my ownership. Just my thought process

I have now found the culprit that was the leak in the first place, a slit in the pipe on the leading bend of the drivers side rear roof section...

20220903_090816.jpg

And a closer look...

20220903_090715.jpg

Really not sure how this has happened, it's not like it's a location that flexes every time you operate the roof, you can't access this location without removing the headlining, but it is exposed when you have the front roof shell repaired under warranty!!

I'd like to say a massive thank you to LordLolzeye for all of his efforts in producing this How-To, it has been invaluable in getting this work completed, thank you sir you are a legend

Posted: **Mon Aug 07, 2023 8:08 pm**

You don't need to remove the front shell, only the rear one (with the rear screen in it) and DON'T FORGET to remove the rear screen connections!!!!

On the cabrio site they ask you to phone them, there they'll work out exactly which hose/s you need

Posted: **Tue Aug 15, 2023 8:41 pm**

AnubisZed wrote: ↑Mon Aug 07, 2023 8:08 pm ...and DON'T FORGET to remove the rear screen connections!!!!

And this has to be done very, very carefully as many of these "old" connectors tend to tear off the glass when trying to remove the two connectors!!!

That is a very sh.itty situation as these connectors were soldered directly onto the metallized glass.

In between I found a solution to get it fixed with my heatgun. But this is very risky if you don't have any experience with carglas.

Posted: **Tue Aug 15, 2023 8:51 pm**

MaxSheperd wrote: ↑Mon Aug 07, 2023 7:09 pm ...can I ask you how you managed to pass through the new harness under the front shell ? did you remove it? or you loosened it?
The harness there does an elbow, so wondering how you passed the new harness through.

I loosen the two rear screws of the front panel to remove the old harness and move the now one into this "ellbow". But, always open these screws only after heating up the screw's core with a heatgun. Not cold, as you risk to tear a glued screw!
And take care of the shims below these 2 screws.

Posted: **Sun Apr 14, 2024 2:03 pm**

My buddy's car had a minor fluid leak on the driver side. The cylinder and pipe/line was fine but it was leaking at the port. I slide the retaining clip out and removed the pipe/line and seal. The seal looked fine. I did notice that the retaining clip seemed to be 'flattened' so it was retaining, but not providing an axial force. I used a small screwdriver to open up the clip so it provided a stronger wedge. It took more force to reinstall but the leaking has stopped. Time will tell.

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