Z4-forum.com

A quick run through with pics as requested by @Big Andra

In some ways replacing E89 rear struts is more straightforward than on the E85… after a bit of trial and error, once you know how to get to the top mounts…

The plastic push- fit rivets are reusable if treated with a bit of care.

First of all there are two that need to be removed which are hidden behind the bulkhead trim panel as follows:
Removing the two bulk rivets indicated makes this considerably easier:
More in next post.

Then it’s a case of removing the rivets that hold down the ‘top mount trim pieces’, which are next to the roof mechanism on both sides as follows;

Then you need to remove the small storage box on the passenger side, this releases with a bit of wiggling once the two rivets to the left of the photo have been removed, and the hidden rivet beneath the lid have been removed (location marked with an X);
To remove any doubt, the corner trim and storage box come out as one piece.

Also, removing the fourth rivet on the boot floor in the first photo releases tension on the trim panel holding in the part to be moved /removed.

At this point, with a bit of force and possibly some swearing, you should be able to pull the trim piece out from behind the bulkhead and roof mechanism and either remove it completely or just move it so you have sufficient access to the top strut mount. On the passenger side.

If you can gain sufficient access without removing it completely, this makes it easier to reassemble. The other pieces of trim hold this piece in at the ‘boot end’, so it’s a bit awkward to get it back in if completely removed

This is definitely the case on the drivers side as you don’t need to remove the corner boot trim.

For the drivers side there’s a little less to do as there’s no storage box to be removed.
I simply removed the rivets circled and this gave me enough wiggle room to manoeuvre this trim piece out of the way after pulling firmly to release it from behind the boot trim and roof mechanism.

To summarise, the trickiest bit really is manoeuvring the trim piece’s back into place, especially the storage box… it’s a case of trial and error really

This is what the push fit rivets look like once separated;
I separated them all and put them in a cup of freshly boiled water and left them in there for about half an hour. I then spread the prongs gently with blunt knife. Reinsert the pronged part first, you’ll have to apply very gentle pressure to the prongs, then push in the pin.

This worked much better for me than just poking them back in as they seemed to have lost their grip

True-Blue wrote: ↑Mon Apr 22, 2024 1:30 pm To summarise, the trickiest bit really is manoeuvring the trim piece’s back into place, especially the storage box… it’s a case of trial and error really

This is what the push fit rivets look like once separated;

IMG_3669.jpeg

I separated them all and put them in a cup of freshly boiled water and left them in there for about half an hour. I then spread the prongs gently with blunt knife. Reinsert the pronged part first, you’ll have to apply very gentle pressure to the prongs, then push in the pin.

This worked much better for me than just poking them back in as they seemed to have lost their grip

Interesting technique..I’ll have to try it

Absolutely spot on

Agreed having just done the job the trim is the worst part to move the rest is easy as long as you can undo the bottom shock absorber bolt. i used a windy gun.

k755 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 23, 2024 11:04 am Agreed having just done the job the trim is the worst part to move the rest is easy as long as you can undo the bottom shock absorber bolt. i used a windy gun.

Yeah, I still haven’t bought a rattle-gun…

The bottom bolts are indeed an effort, but I found that a liberal application of WD40, waiting half an hour and then brute force with a breaker bar after jacking the hub up to get a bit more clearance was the solution. Be advised, this approach may lead to an unplanned release of bodily gas

Another tip is to virtually undo the nut on top of the shock absorber itself whilst the shock is still in situ, rather than remove the shock first. This is a rear shock, so nothing is under tension.

I used a ratchet head ring spanner on the nut itself and a small adjustable wrench to hold the shaft and stop it spinning
Didn’t take a photo whilst on the car, but this is one of the old ones with the nut close to the top of the thread

Which shocks did you use and how much are we looking at for standard replacement rears chaps? Sensible to do the springs as well I would think?
I know this is very much needed on my 2009.

Stash36 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 23, 2024 2:35 pm Which shocks did you use and how much are we looking at for standard replacement rears chaps? Sensible to do the springs as well I would think?
I know this is very much needed on my 2009.

I used Bilstein B4’s, which is O.E. Equivalent, fortunately the springs on the rear of this car were replaced recently.

Autodoc app is the way to go, but keep an eye on their price vs discount as it varies daily. Delivery times vary, this order took about 10 days, but I was in no rush.

£117.98 for the rear pair, plus I never re-use top mounts. I paid £402 including delivery and ‘safe order’ for front and rear Bilstein B4’s and lemforder top mounts. I’d have preferred Sachs as they are actually O.E., but they didn’t have stock at the time.

Thanks TB, great write up as well.