Re: Change your Air, Oil and Oil Filter
Posted: Sat Jun 05, 2010 8:45 pm
also forgot to add the diff oil on all z4's except the M coupe and roadster is lifetime oil and doesn't need to be changedn
Thanks CJ - I will re-order the How-To so that we're taking the sump-plug out first.cj10jeeper wrote:I like this write up and as evidenced by the comments helped a lot of people.
One tip I'd add:
If you undo the sump plug first before the oil filter and removing the rocker cap, then the oil will not flow out fast all over your hand while you undo the sump plug as it cannot drain freely. Secondly the oil will drain partly out of the filter bowl reducing mess and have longer to drip out while you do the other jobs.
Warming the engine up is more important than just making the oil flow as it gets all the dirt back into suspension and not left to be washed around in your nice clean oil
It is.. if you've drained absolutely everything correctly.Gorbash12346 wrote: as for the oil adding if you have allowed the car to drain with the oil filter removed until there is nothing more than a small drip from the sump drain the amount needed is excactly 6.5 litres on the dot
hope this helps
Shipkiller wrote:One other optional step you can do to fend off oil starvation at initial start-up.
After you put the drain plug back in the oil pan, and before you put the oil filter cartridge in, pour some new oil on the cartridge, put the cartridge in and pour the rest of the bottle into the oil filter cartridge housing. This will minimize the the small amount of start-up starvation that happens after a oil change. It takes a finite amount of time for the oil pump to pressurize the system and allow oil to flow through the filter, and onto the rest of the system.
Dont think this question was answered and I will shortly be in the same situation. What method does non dipstick owners use when changing their oil?volvos60 wrote:This is great.
Problem is that you mention checking the oil level with the dipstick as you refill to bring it up to level before you start the engine, as would be normal practice.
My 3.0 Z4 has no dipstick, it has an oil level readout on the instrument panel whcih only gives the oil level after the engine has been running, Any idea how to work around this as you would not want to run the engine until you know you have a decent oil level - catch 22?
sk93 wrote: 1x 36mm Socket (although I ended up using a 38mm, so skip to step 7 and check first if you need to buy one!)
Step 7
Carefully unscrew the oil filter cover using the 36mm socket and lift slightly, allowing the oil still in the filter to drain:
Thanks cjcj10jeeper wrote:It's 100% guaranteed a 36mm socket. Ideally get a 6 faced one so it doesnt round the corners of the cap 'nut'.
I think the green "o" ring was integral with my filter.blackredz4 wrote:i m doing mine tomorrow, i got a small green o ring in my filter kit (bmw) have non of you changed this ? and my filter cap is 86 mm 16 sides ive brought a special tool for the job
This how-to was regarding non-M engined cars. For ours we need Castrol TWS 10w60Z8Cookie wrote:Is Castrol Edge 0W30 Oil still the recomended oil? I am sure I saw 10W60 recomended somewhere else.
Doh! I should have spotted that in the photos!playalistic wrote:This how-to was regarding non-M engined cars. For ours we need Castrol TWS 10w60Z8Cookie wrote:Is Castrol Edge 0W30 Oil still the recomended oil? I am sure I saw 10W60 recomended somewhere else.
Same here. But don't go on the E89 forum or you'll have a heart attack. Some of those haven't changed their oil (never mind a service) in over 20k milesharoldbrock wrote:Based on my experience, I change oil every 7500 mph. But there are some people that are using the 5000mph style. A dirty oil would harm your engine and changing it once in a while is the best solution. According to the proper "how to change engine oil and filter", car users normally change their oil in the range of 5000 - 7500.