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My understanding of Transport/Transit Mode is that it is only an issue where the supplying dealer hasn't fully deactivated it when first prepping the car for the road. A lot of them just effectively turn it off rather than deactivating it as a feature so it cant return. When its just turned off/reset it has the potential to return under certain conditions. These include a sustained period of low voltage like you can get with a failing battery or power drain etc. Not the power being shut off entirely when you change a battery etc.

I for one have personally replaced my failing battery as well as having the battery disconnected on a number of occasions for various tasks such as fitting M Sports seats and a Royals Steering Wheel etc. On all of these occasions the most the battery was disconnected for was no more than an hour. So either mine has been deactivated properly from the original supplying dealer, or its still capable of coming back but a battery disconnected for a hour doesnt trigger it.

MACK wrote:My understanding of Transport/Transit Mode is that it is only an issue where the supplying dealer hasn't fully deactivated it when first prepping the car for the road. A lot of them just effectively turn it off rather than deactivating it as a feature so it cant return. When its just turned off/reset it has the potential to return under certain conditions. These include a sustained period of low voltage like you can get with a failing battery or power drain etc. Not the power being shut off entirely when you change a battery etc.

I for one have personally replaced my failing battery as well as having the battery disconnected on a number of occasions for various tasks such as fitting M Sports seats and a Royals Steering Wheel etc. On all of these occasions the most the battery was disconnected for was no more than an hour. So either mine has been deactivated properly from the original supplying dealer, or its still capable of coming back but a battery disconnected for a hour doesnt trigger it.

Thanking you! I guess you do learn something new every day ey?
I'll bear this in mind for my future disconnection ventures! Cheers MACK

Interesting. I used DIS and was asked if I wanted to "DELETE" transport mode. Which I said yes to. Is this the same as fully deactivating? I have no idea!!

Andy.

andyfanshawe wrote:Interesting. I used DIS and was asked if I wanted to "DELETE" transport mode. Which I said yes to. Is this the same as fully deactivating? I have no idea!!

Andy.

I would guess if it's been deleted it won't give you the option to delete again. Might be worth a second look.

andyfanshawe wrote:Interesting. I used DIS and was asked if I wanted to "DELETE" transport mode. Which I said yes to. Is this the same as fully deactivating? I have no idea!!

Andy.

Yep - I believe you have banished that demon for good. I thought you were only running INPA, not DIS as well. Perhaps I didn't read the posts correctly, sorry.
I only have INPA/NCS (dummies) and Carly, as they have done everything I've needed so far for coding (DRL's, power to windows when doors open, delete beeping when key in ignition and door open, 3 flashes for indicator tap, clear fault codes and so on...). Deleting Transport Mode is not an option with any of them, but I can reset it if needs be so that's good enough for me

Got a squeaky wiper linkage!! A really irritating 1 squeak per wipe.
So lets have a look under the scuttle.
Wiper arms stuck solid so had to use my wiper removal tool


Really stuck well, so had to tap the arm with a punch and hammer to get it to free off (like breaking a ball joint by hitting the side), but a LOT more carefully. One tap and they popped off.

First view inside






here's the squeaky ball joint


Not much play in it, so squirted it with extreme synthetic lubricant.

All put back together after vacuuming out all the leaves and things!

New wiper blades completed it.

Andy.

Good work, has it stopped the squeak though? Drives you mad doesn't it!
Rob

Smartbear wrote:Good work, has it stopped the squeak though? Drives you mad doesn't it!
Rob

Of course its stopped!! And, yes, its bloody irritating.

Who on Earth designs such things to get so full of debris in an area that is not easily serviced?

I have the exact same squeak, drives me insane! I thought it was the wiper arms, so I coated them with grease, but to no avail. I shall have another look at that ballpoint tomorrow, cheers!

You can actually see the offending joint without removing the scuttle (if its the same one that squeaking!). I could have sprayed lube on it without dismantling.
Have a look from the drivers side down by the end of the scuttle panel.
There are 2 other ball joints also, but they were fine on mine.
Good luck.
Andy.

2 simple little jobs today...

here's one of only 2 exhaust heat shield bolts that I haven't removed and treated. Poor photo though, sorry.



The white corrosion is clearly visible due to the different metals touching each other.

So, bolt removed and white corrossion brushed away, and area above and underneath sprayed with aluminium anti-seize





Then a stainless washer added but not before being sprayed liberally



And onto job number 2.....

Yeah, yeah, I know. What happened to the foglights?...Job in progress. When I can get round to it after fixing customers cars.

CDV, or clutch delay valve removal.

Really simple, here's a photo of before and after removal.





Then hydraulic circuit vacuum bled because no one else is around.

Not test driven it yet due to the weather, so it goes into the back of my workshop waiting.



In the foreground is my 5.7 litre camaro on the lift undergoing fuel injection conversion. A bad boy indeed !!

Andy.

Nows the time for roof motor relocation.
It was obvious from the start that this car wasn't on its first rodeo!!
Clips missing, etc
Anyway, I managed to get the top off the motor housing


Dry as a bone.
Pulled the motor out onto the plastic shelf.


And thats where it stopped! No matter how many tie wraps I cut and how many clips I pulled the hydraulic lines out from, it wasn't going any further. The lines were well secured down the front of the housing. It looked like the bowden cable was complicating things. So,.........a bit of thinking........I didn't want to cut the cable for reasons to be seen later.....so no option......lets remove the softop complete.

Couple of hours later and he we are





Thought about making it into a roadster permanently, but......NO.!!

here's the lower motor housing

Dry as the proverbial desert. and the motor doesn't look 11 years old


The line connections going in to the motor look corroded slightly, but the motor doesn't. So in my humble opinion, this has been out before and a new motor attached to the old hydraulic connections that were undoubtedly submerged in the past.

Here's a couple of photos of the bottom of the place where the motor housing sat




and the drivers side


Just goes to show that keeping drain holes clear is not always the answer.

Anyway, softop replaced and motor finally pulled through. Plastic panel marked for cutting and cut out.


Section of rubber hose cut

and sharp edges sleeved for full protection to hydraulic lines and wires


Motor put into its place and the shelf plastic trim cut and sleeved. Unfortunately I forgot to photograph it so I put my phone through into the area where the motor used to be and took a photo there

Hopefully you can see that there is no way there will be any chafing!

And now the bowden cable.
I need a factory look, so I rerouted the cable back to where it waqs originally, with the exception that it now sticks through further......to here

and secured


Just got to make a cover for the motor now and the car will look and act as per the handbook says. For the sanity of future owners who will actually be able to find the bowden cable red handle!

Andy.