I have bought a Creator 410 for my Z4MC which is moderately useful and it has advised "OD Power Window Open circuit jam protection strip" or some such but without a specific code. It also says Error EKS. This is probably linked to the fact that the windows no longer have a two stage switch (in that there is no longer a one touch close) and that they only drop a fraction on entry/exit. A friend's has far more movement. can anyone please advise what can be done? i have tried most of the "hold the switch down/stare at the mirror/stand on your head for two seconds" type routines but this hasn't changed anything. The codes cant be cleared.
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Electric Windows
- Thread starter CliveN
- Start date
Does nobody know different reset operations for windows in a E85/86. While I might have cured the airbag issue, this is a real PITA as I cant easily close the doors. Both windows drop but only a fraction. I have tried the "down/hold/up/hold and repeat" several times now and it makes no difference although I have now found then the drivers window now operates on the second switch - it originally only worked on switch position one. the passenger window has full operation (but still doesn't go down well enough). Any ideas please?
Before I issue a blank cheque to an outfit to restore my e/w issue of not dropping on opening the door is there anyone who can offer me a foolproof way of resetting it on a 2007 E86. I have tried the ones on YouTube with no obvious effect. The drivers side is particularly stubborn. It has a new motor (2018) but Sytners did not replace the mechanism.
Assuming nobody knows any other methods can someone technical please explain what might be the problem- it does set out an error on Creator 410 but no code. Also can someone set out who might be best to fix - a good Indy locally or an auto electrician? Thank yiu
Assuming nobody knows any other methods can someone technical please explain what might be the problem- it does set out an error on Creator 410 but no code. Also can someone set out who might be best to fix - a good Indy locally or an auto electrician? Thank yiu
OK, silly question maybe, but if you wind the window up with the door open, it should drop a little when it reaches the top. How far? does it go the full 10mm or so down?CliveN said:
Grasping at straws but I'm wondering if the window has been adjusted too high up so can't then give the full range of clearance drop?
As I said, a random thought.
Thank you. I have tried this procedure and no luck. The windows seem to be happy when going up and down normally just about.
Passenger side: UP - both stages of switch works (manual and auto close). DOWN - both stages work (manual and auto open). Drivers side: UP - only first stage works (manual only). DOWN - both work properly.
Both windows open/close on the key if you continue to press unlock/lock button.
Both windows do go down (you can hear the clunk) but the movement is less than 1mm. This happens on both open and closed doors. Having tried it out on my 240 with doors open I see that windows should only go to the “door open” position - mine go to their “only just open” position.
All of this indicates that other than one switch procedure (on drivers door) all is okay. In that they are doing as they should but just not enough.
The window motor in the drivers side (not regulator) was replaced in 2018 by Sytner.
I thought about the window not being adjusted in the frame properly but if it wanted to go higher but was prevented by the frame (eg it was set too high and thus wouldn’t lower enough) then it would probably fry the motors. Also the passenger side appears to have never been touched but it has exactly the same symptoms.
Passenger side: UP - both stages of switch works (manual and auto close). DOWN - both stages work (manual and auto open). Drivers side: UP - only first stage works (manual only). DOWN - both work properly.
Both windows open/close on the key if you continue to press unlock/lock button.
Both windows do go down (you can hear the clunk) but the movement is less than 1mm. This happens on both open and closed doors. Having tried it out on my 240 with doors open I see that windows should only go to the “door open” position - mine go to their “only just open” position.
All of this indicates that other than one switch procedure (on drivers door) all is okay. In that they are doing as they should but just not enough.
The window motor in the drivers side (not regulator) was replaced in 2018 by Sytner.
I thought about the window not being adjusted in the frame properly but if it wanted to go higher but was prevented by the frame (eg it was set too high and thus wouldn’t lower enough) then it would probably fry the motors. Also the passenger side appears to have never been touched but it has exactly the same symptoms.