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Front Bumper Removal - DIY by mister_roger

mister_roger

Member
Bellevue, WA
In my recent project of converting my standard Z4 bumper to a Z4M front bumper, I decided it would be good opportunity to also create a DIY for removing the front bumper. The original Z4um (and zpost) DIY (http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63034), proved to be a valuable resource in this procedure. Unfortunately, the picture links are dead.

So with intention to provide the community with a new resource, here is my writeup for a standard Z4 front bumper removal:

Overview:
First you need to understand how the front bumper is attached to the body. It is held on by 7 hex screws along the top edge in the engine compartment, 4 expanding tabs along each fenderwell, and 7 8mm screws along the underside of the front bumper edge. The sides of the bumper snap into place where it meets with the fender.

Tools required:
-Screwdriver with hex bits -or- allen wrench crank tool from BMW tool kit.
-Tiny screwdriver (size of a toothpick)
-8mm socket or wrench
-confidence


Step 1:

Start by removing the expanding tabs along each fenderwell. These tabs function by having a small plastic rod become inserted down the middle, causing the tab to expand and lock in place. To remove these tabs, take the tiny screwdrive and PUSH the rods all the way in until you hear them fall. Don't worry, you'll be able to recover them when the bumper is removed.
CIMG7688.jpg

Now it's loose
CIMG7692.jpg

Remove the 7 remaining tabs from both fender wells in the same manner.


Step 2:

Remove the 7 8mm screws/bolts along the underside of the front bumper. These are pretty straightforward.
CIMG7695.jpg


Step 3:

Pull off the sides of the bumper where it meets the fender. You may have to give it some force, but after some firm pulls and it should eventually pop off.
CIMG7697.jpg


Step 4:

Remove the 7 hex screws along the top edge of the front bumper. This should be done last, because these 7 screws are all that's holding your bumper in place at this point. Using your Screwdriver with hex bit, simply remove the screws. Watch out, they may be a little tight.

OPTION 2: If you do not have a hex screwdriver handy (like i did), I discovered that this allen-wrench crank tool thingy from the supplied emercency tool kit actually fits into the hex screws. It's not intended for this use though, because you run the risk of stripping out the allen head when it turns against the teeth in the hex screw. But as long as you're careful and don't overdo it, this tool should be able to get these screws out. This tool is made from pretty strong metal.
CIMG7698.jpg


Step 5:

With all the screws and hardware removed, gently pull the bumper forward a bit and disconnect the fog light harnesses (if you have fog lights). The bumper should now pull completely forward and is no longer attached to the body.
CIMG7699.jpg

Make sure you save this piece as well, which runs along the top edge where the hex screws were.
CIMG7700.jpg

With the bumper removed, you should see the 4 expanding tab pins that dropped. Save them for use later.
CIMG7711.jpg

Reinstalling the bumper is the exact same process in reverse order. The expanding tabs are placed in their holes, and the pins inserted afterwards to lock them into place.

And that is how it's done.

Best,

-Roger
 
One question though. When looking at my TIS program, they mention the need for what seems to be a shim kit to be used when aligning the bumper during installation. Was that required?
 
Glad you liked the write up :) I didn't use any shim kits when realigning the bumper. The only part of reinstalltion that may require a sharp eye is maintining consistent gap between the hood and front bumper. Make sure the gap is even before fully tightenig the screws.
 
Anyone done this on a 06+ non-Z4M ? I tried it a few months back, failed and never got to doing it. I got everything off, pins through and just couldn't pull off the bumper? Reflector related perhaps?
 
Great write up mister_roger
Permit me me to make a couple of comments having removed and refitted mine many times and several others of pre and post facelift.

Firstly when separating the cover from the wing I suggest using a combination of fingers behind the cover and a thumb pressed on the wing. This reduces the chance of bending the metal wing by over pulling it without support. Previously unremoved ones are very tough to detach. Correct method really is to use a tool to release the clamp behind the cover.

Where headlight washers are fitted these will need disconnecting. I suggest as you pull the bumper forward, place it on a cloth on the ground and use a tube clamp on the hose. Once clamped the washers can be disconnected without draining the entire water reservoir.

When refitting I suggest loosely fixing the single centre hex bolt as this keeps everything steady while you align things. Note also that in the lower rear corners (as seen in photo 2) there is an engagement lug in front of the bolts. If you dont get this connected in the square hole, the rest will not alight properly.

As mister_roger says ther are no shims but if you move the headlights they have a whole variety of adjustmests that need working on to get the body, bumper and light gaps correct.

Bimmer zealot - the pre and post standard and ///M are all identical and totally interchangeable. The side lenses you refer to have no connetion and are simply fastened to the bumper cover with 2 self threading nuts. You just need to pull harder to split the cover from the wing, but take care as you could crack the delicate lenses...
 
powerontap said:
One question though. When looking at my TIS program, they mention the need for what seems to be a shim kit to be used when aligning the bumper during installation. Was that required?

anyone able to confirm this?
 
powerontap said:
powerontap said:
One question though. When looking at my TIS program, they mention the need for what seems to be a shim kit to be used when aligning the bumper during installation. Was that required?

anyone able to confirm this?

No shim kit that I have ever seen, however where the headlights mount they have fixings that can be adjusted to ensure the headlight gap/fit is correct to the panels. Obvious once you take the front off.
 
Might be needing this as Im thinking of getting the aero front bumper. Do the washer jets fit on afterwards or should they be on the bumper when I buy it? Can't really tell from the picture.
 
Tommo said:
Might be needing this as Im thinking of getting the aero front bumper. Do the washer jets fit on afterwards or should they be on the bumper when I buy it? Can't really tell from the picture.

If the 'new' bumper has washer jet provision then you just unclip and swap them over to the new one. They certainly don't come with it from BMW (nor the hose clips, mesh inserts, etc.

In fact even if it does have washer jet holes the moulding and bracket is on the inside already so you would just have to carefully cut out the holes in the top
 
Right thanks :)

Got outbid by a pound in the end. :thumbsdown: Forgot what time it was ending :headbang:

Went for £41 in the end. :(
 
It was an Aero front bumper in silver with some slight scratches. Wasn't twisted or anything apparently. Was quoted £80 for the respray so was looking forward to getting it.

Edit : It was posted in the buy and sell by somebody who had seen it. It was listed as a standard bumper so Im not totally sure the guy knew what he was selling.
 
Just wanted to say thanks to the OP - Had to do this yesterday to fit my new washer pump after the cover bracket broke losing my washer cover :(

Clear and concise helped get the job done reasonably quickly, thanks :thumbsup:
 
mister_roger,

Firstly can I say what a great couple of write ups! If I ever get brave enough to do this sort of project, then I'll be sure to take a look at your guides.

I have a question about the kidney grill removal. You state that they just pulll out with a bit of force? Are the no screws used at all?

I took a look a mine yesterday, and they look to be glued (?) onto the bumper, can this be the case
:?
 
Hi goose,

Thanks for the feedback. Regarding the kidney grills, they should just snap into place. It is secured to the bumper with plastic locking tabs around the edge, but should be able to pull right out with some wiggling and firm pressure. There is a backing plate behind the bumper to which the grill attaches to and this piece is glued to the bumper, but the grill piece itself is detachable.

Best of luck to you,
-Roger
 
Ive compared mine with that of a collegues BMW (not a z), and mine have definitly been fixed in with some form of adhesive at some point in the past.

Careful cutting job required me thinks
 
Thanks to this guide I removed my original bumper without a hitch.

Mounting my aerokit however is a different matter so I would like to add some additional pointers to those who are going to DIY an aerokit bumper.

Things you need:
Hex socket set, size 8 will be used for removing 7 hex screw mounts at the bottom of the bumper, size 10 will be used to remove/mount plastic hex screw of badge.
Allen wrench set to remove the 7 bolt mounts on top of the bumper (forgot what size i used)
Precision screw driver set to push the pins in the wheel well
Torx 20 to loosen screw in headlight mount

Part number for aerokit front bumper and washer covers:


Various tips:
1. when removing the bumper attachment from the fender, it is easier if you pull down and pull out. if you just pull it out, you can damage the teeth of your bumper. make sure the plastic mount screwed to the metal fender after you remove the bumper is aligned, all tabs clipped and mounted properly before you put in the bumper.

2. adjusting the headlights is a must (at least in my case) when putting in the aerokit bumper. these can be accessed once bumper has been removed. only 4 screws hold the headlight in place. one on the left and right and two at the bottom.

3. there are only 4 hex screws mounts at the bottom of the aerokit bumper and the left and right most screws will bend your bumper

4. make sure to check mounting holes on top of the bumper (7 holes) and at the bottom (4 holes) before mounting the bumper. mine came with one bottom hole un-punched. i had to drill it before mounting the bumper
 
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