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Water pump DMA fault

Chippie

Chippie

Senior member
Wakefield
Hi folks, I could do with a little help with the Zed please
E89 35is
Retuned from a run out yesterday, car had been fine all day, no issues, I called at my mothers on the way home and the car was sat for about 20 minutes, restarted and got to the end of her street and the amber high water temp warning popped up followed a few seconds later by the red warning, pulled over with no power in the engine, turned off and left to cool 5 minutes, restarted got about 500 meters and same again, managed to get the car home, fortunately i live in the same village as my mother.
I’ve tried the self bleed process and nothing is happening, no noise or water circulation in header tank.
Did a scan with ISTA and there’s fault codes with several modules 71ABE01D-BC75-45AD-90E8-2E2B435F3B2D.jpeg9B56AE6D-53E6-4A49-BC25-35BDBB735A40.jpeg

Cleared fault codes and re scanned, haven’t started the car
19D20B79-D6AB-4C20-BF8E-266D0BC975E5.jpeg

The pump and thermostat were changed about 600 miles ago, looking at the scan’s I’m thinking a problem with the DME or power supply, battery is 3 years old and kept on a trickle charger.
Any help greatly appreciated.
TIA Mick
 
A plethora of codes like this in short order are usually power supply related…loose earth strap, flat battery, fault in charging circuit..with that amount of issues you can’t see the wood for the trees..

I suggest you check the battery health and usual continuity issues..clear all codes, take it for a very short run and re-read..then take it from there..

Looks like major bus failure for whatever reason that took out the control of the coolant pump as a side issue..

DME current violation error usually indicative of some current ‘leak’…

FWIW
 
I’ve had chances to have another look this evening, checked all the fuse’s in the fuse box and they seem good, started it up and ran until warm with header tank cap off, when warm water started flowing and pulsing over the top, re fitted cap and went for a run round the block, oil temp up to 110 but no heat through vents, got back and radiator fan running, still no heat from vents, turned it off before any warning signs, possible air lock? Although I’ve driven it several hundred miles since having the new pump fitted with no problems.
 
Chippie said:
I’ve had chances to have another look this evening, checked all the fuse’s in the fuse box and they seem good, started it up and ran until warm with header tank cap off, when warm water started flowing and pulsing over the top, re fitted cap and went for a run round the block, oil temp up to 110 but no heat through vents, got back and radiator fan running, still no heat from vents, turned it off before any warning signs, possible air lock? Although I’ve driven it several hundred miles since having the new pump fitted with no problems.
Click to expand...
I hope you get it sorted out, sure looked good in my rear view mirror :thumbsup:
 
Chippie said:
I’ve had chances to have another look this evening, checked all the fuse’s in the fuse box and they seem good, started it up and ran until warm with header tank cap off, when warm water started flowing and pulsing over the top, re fitted cap and went for a run round the block, oil temp up to 110 but no heat through vents, got back and radiator fan running, still no heat from vents, turned it off before any warning signs, possible air lock? Although I’ve driven it several hundred miles since having the new pump fitted with no problems.
Click to expand...

Maybe try and bleed the system properly, there should be a procedure somewhere online (on my e90 it’s hold down accelerator / have heater on a certain way which sets the car to self bleed mode using the water pump) should be something similar on an E89 if you know someone with INPA that be able to do it too.

Good luck, just had a water pump and thermostat on my e90 and it wasn’t cheap and I did have a water pump failure communication code in the ECU for a while before it failed.
 
There's the obvious videos on YouTube that might help

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXhwpFzsySw
Hope it's that simple :thumbsup:
 
Thanks for the suggestion, I’d already used the self bleeding proses when I’d originally changed the pump and everything seemed fine, I’d tried it again the other day but like a numpty I’d had my foot on the brake pedal and not the accelerator :headbang: so after reading and watching the video I’ll try it again doing it properly this time.
 
What’s the fault code reader say now?

Strange if pump running coolant to header tank but not to heater circuits….

The pump responds to a wide number of inputs not just the engine running…
 
Tried the self bleeding again using the accelerator and nothing, I think the flow I saw yesterday was the hot water rising from the engine, similar to a geyser heated by the hot rocks below.
I also removed the fuse box last night, I’d struggled previously with access when doing my dash cam, there’s a bunch of wires that loop over a metal brace limiting the amount to fuse box drops down, so this time I’ve managed to force the mires and connector over to brace and now the fuse box is sat on the footwell floor, (now have easy access) and all the fuse check out except one which has no power at all, (this could be my fault as when I did the dash cam I ended up putting a fuse in the wrong place and couldn’t figure out where, so there’s an extra fuse in there somewhere :headbang:.(top tip take a photo first).
I also had doubts about ISTA and the cable settings in windows, I also have VCDS installed for my Audi and when I first scanned the Zed it wouldn’t connect, I changed the com setting and it connected but it turns out I also needed to change the latency times, so a fresh scan now only shows the water pump.

F821C199-7150-4EE5-AE07-AB68C8F47539.jpeg
 
That implies either the connector has failed / not attached and /or the pump is dead as in Monty Python…
 
B21 said:
That implies either the connector has failed / not attached and /or the pump is dead as in Monty Python…
Click to expand...

That’s what I thought, next step is to get underneath and get the pump off (if only I had a scissor lift).
Luckily I still have the old working pump so if it’s faulty I’ll be able to swap them over and return the new pump to AUTODOC, I think they quote between two and eight weeks turnaround.
 
Chippie said:
B21 said:
That implies either the connector has failed / not attached and /or the pump is dead as in Monty Python…
Click to expand...

That’s what I thought, next step is to get underneath and get the pump off (if only I had a scissor lift).
Luckily I still have the old working pump so if it’s faulty I’ll be able to swap them over and return the new pump to AUTODOC, I think they quote between two and eight weeks turnaround.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately often with these type of systems the ‘A B’ swap is sometimes the only way to isolate a fault..
 
Problem now resolved :D
After only 3 months and 909 miles the new pump had failed, so much for the preventative measure of replacing the old one after 11 years and 74274 miles.
I’ve had the old one refitted for now until I can get the “new one” exchanged under warranty, keeping me on the road :driving: for the time being, probably the last run of the season this coming weekend so no real pressure to get the replacement back quickly.
There’s something to be said for being a bit of a hoarder and not throwing things straight in the bin.
 
Sadly there is still ‘infant mortality’ and ‘dead on arrival’ parts…I got a Valeo boost sensor and it was duff fresh out of the box…fortunately ISTA was powerful enough to trouble shoot it..put the old one back in..

Whose make and part number may I ask for the pump?
 
Quick update on this,
I had to fill in a warranty claim for the replacement pump,
They wanted to know if the pump was fitted by a garage or myself, and if I was claiming for the fitting costs, because my son did it they wanted copies of his qualifications, I got the feeling if I’d done it myself it would have been a lot harder getting a replacement, fortunately they approved the claim and a new pump arrived about a week later, now just waiting while he has time to swap them over again.
Just be aware that fitting items from AUTODOC yourself could invalidate the guarantee.
 
Chippie said:
Quick update on this,
I had to fill in a warranty claim for the replacement pump,
They wanted to know if the pump was fitted by a garage or myself, and if I was claiming for the fitting costs, because my son did it they wanted copies of his qualifications, I got the feeling if I’d done it myself it would have been a lot harder getting a replacement, fortunately they approved the claim and a new pump arrived about a week later, now just waiting while he has time to swap them over again.
Just be aware that fitting items from AUTODOC yourself could invalidate the guarantee.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the update..had a similar issue with Autodoc with some Hella N54 ignition coils that would auto eject off the spark plugs..

I guess if you didn't claim fitting costs then being a 'hobby' mechanic should not, in itself, preclude servicing the warranty claim for parts only?
 
B21 said:
Chippie said:
Quick update on this,
I had to fill in a warranty claim for the replacement pump,
They wanted to know if the pump was fitted by a garage or myself, and if I was claiming for the fitting costs, because my son did it they wanted copies of his qualifications, I got the feeling if I’d done it myself it would have been a lot harder getting a replacement, fortunately they approved the claim and a new pump arrived about a week later, now just waiting while he has time to swap them over again.
Just be aware that fitting items from AUTODOC yourself could invalidate the guarantee.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the update..had a similar issue with Autodoc with some Hella N54 ignition coils that would auto eject off the spark plugs..

I guess if you didn't claim fitting costs then being a 'hobby' mechanic should not, in itself, preclude servicing the warranty claim for parts only?
Click to expand...

I got the feeling they were more concerned that a part could be incorrectly fitted causing it to fail.
 
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