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How to- Starter Motor replacement
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Onlinebigwinn
- Lifer
- Posts: 4819
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How to- Starter Motor replacement
Hi all
Symptoms- very laboured starting for a while- as I drive the car only once a week I presumed the battery was on the way out- wrong!
Once or twice I was greeted with a click and no turnover. When it did this at work I started to look at the starter motor- especially as it went from click to start after tapping the motor with a BFH.
Replacement bought using myriad of discount codes from EuroCrapParts- decent price of under £60 when I take the old one back for reconditioning.
Onto the car:
Disconnect battery.
Had a good feel around the areas- decided against taking the airbox, intake boot and intake manifold off. Note a lot of guides suggest this needs to be done- mine being a 2.2 I DIDNT need to do this with adequate space to work.
Here is the business end of the starter, tucked under the intake manifold. Have a look and move/unclip any hoses that might get in the way. I moved very little. First task- undo/loosen the bolts holding the starter motor to the bell housing- I used E12 Torx spanner to break the grip then undid with a 10mm normal socket once moving. Once they were loose I then focussed on the electrical connections. From this photo you can see the torx spanner on one and arrowed is the other. Easy to get to from the top of the engine. Note the rear of the car is to the RIGHT. The electrical connections- 13mm BIG bolt held on 2 heavy duty electrical wires, mine were red. Once off and safely stowed I undid the 10mm low volt wire. Likewise I safely stowed this away out of the way. Time to get the motor off- it separated with a bit of wiggling, moving toward the front of the car. With some manoeuvring around hoses out it came! The new one ready to go in- now this was about 10mm longer in the body than the old one but there was plenty of clearance. I tweaked up the bolts to hold it in place, then connected and tightened (NOT overtight on the 10mm low voltage that felt a bit fragile). Put all the hoses and clips back on, reconnected the battery and done!
Any questions please drop me a line- 45mins start to finish on a cold December day- minimal tools and maximum satisfaction!
Cheers
Stuart
Symptoms- very laboured starting for a while- as I drive the car only once a week I presumed the battery was on the way out- wrong!
Once or twice I was greeted with a click and no turnover. When it did this at work I started to look at the starter motor- especially as it went from click to start after tapping the motor with a BFH.
Replacement bought using myriad of discount codes from EuroCrapParts- decent price of under £60 when I take the old one back for reconditioning.
Onto the car:
Disconnect battery.
Had a good feel around the areas- decided against taking the airbox, intake boot and intake manifold off. Note a lot of guides suggest this needs to be done- mine being a 2.2 I DIDNT need to do this with adequate space to work.
Here is the business end of the starter, tucked under the intake manifold. Have a look and move/unclip any hoses that might get in the way. I moved very little. First task- undo/loosen the bolts holding the starter motor to the bell housing- I used E12 Torx spanner to break the grip then undid with a 10mm normal socket once moving. Once they were loose I then focussed on the electrical connections. From this photo you can see the torx spanner on one and arrowed is the other. Easy to get to from the top of the engine. Note the rear of the car is to the RIGHT. The electrical connections- 13mm BIG bolt held on 2 heavy duty electrical wires, mine were red. Once off and safely stowed I undid the 10mm low volt wire. Likewise I safely stowed this away out of the way. Time to get the motor off- it separated with a bit of wiggling, moving toward the front of the car. With some manoeuvring around hoses out it came! The new one ready to go in- now this was about 10mm longer in the body than the old one but there was plenty of clearance. I tweaked up the bolts to hold it in place, then connected and tightened (NOT overtight on the 10mm low voltage that felt a bit fragile). Put all the hoses and clips back on, reconnected the battery and done!
Any questions please drop me a line- 45mins start to finish on a cold December day- minimal tools and maximum satisfaction!
Cheers
Stuart
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- maxman
- Senior Member
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How to- Starter Motor replacement
Good write up.
- futureZ4buyer
- Member
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- Member
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How to- Starter Motor replacement
This is why I joined this forum . Plenty of great tips and advice to help keep our Zeds on the road and save our hard earned cash.
2004 Black Sapphire 3.0L SE. Red leather. Back box delete. Clutch valve delete. Roof motor relocated. 18" M star spoke style 193. Machine Monkey exhaust tips. Gap Tec. ZHP Gear knob. Clear side repeaters. Zun Sport lower grille.
- colb
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How to- Starter Motor replacement
Did the same on my 2.5, ratchet spanner worked fine on mine.
Z Shed Cymru member
1999 1.8 Z3
2003 2.5 Z4
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1999 1.8 Z3
2003 2.5 Z4
If the forum helped you, why not help the forum back. Thats the Z4 way!
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- Member
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How to- Starter Motor replacement
Hi Stuart,
Good timing as my starter motor gave out the other night and I need to tackle this. Can I ask how many bolts held your motor on? Most of the parts online show 3 bolts, but on another Starter Motor thread on here the guy's photo of the starter only had 2 bolt holes for mounting - but that was on a N-series engine I think.
Hoping 3 is the correct answer as there seems to be many more options for replacement motors with 3 mounting holes rather than 2.
Good timing as my starter motor gave out the other night and I need to tackle this. Can I ask how many bolts held your motor on? Most of the parts online show 3 bolts, but on another Starter Motor thread on here the guy's photo of the starter only had 2 bolt holes for mounting - but that was on a N-series engine I think.
Hoping 3 is the correct answer as there seems to be many more options for replacement motors with 3 mounting holes rather than 2.
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Online
- Lifer
- Posts: 3503
- Joined: Tue Sep 29, 2020 10:37 pm
- Location: North Hampshire
How to- Starter Motor replacement
3 holes on the starter motor. The two threaded holes are for the bolts through from the bell housing; the unthreaded (middle) for a locating pin.parabolica wrote: ↑Wed Dec 30, 2020 3:10 pm Hi Stuart,
Good timing as my starter motor gave out the other night and I need to tackle this. Can I ask how many bolts held your motor on? Most of the parts online show 3 bolts, but on another Starter Motor thread on here the guy's photo of the starter only had 2 bolt holes for mounting - but that was on a N-series engine I think.
Hoping 3 is the correct answer as there seems to be many more options for replacement motors with 3 mounting holes rather than 2.
The mounting on the N52 engine is completely different.
This one is about to go in a pre-facelift 2.5i. Less than £50 on carparts4less.
- Attachments
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- F546DC8D-8891-4262-B980-5E303FFDAC48.jpeg (114.87 KiB) Viewed 2851 times
2003 Maldives Blue 3.0i auto
Previously: Maldives Blue 2.5i manual (its back!) and another, and a Monaco Blue 3.0Si coupe
Previously: Maldives Blue 2.5i manual (its back!) and another, and a Monaco Blue 3.0Si coupe
- enuff_zed
- Lifer
- Posts: 15183
- Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2016 11:05 am
- Location: Attleborough, Norfolk
How to- Starter Motor replacement
Well I have to say I'd be stuck these last two weeks without Stuart's (bigwinn) input.
This how-to is another fine example.
Supposed to be wfh, so nipping out and doing a bit at a time to remove the dead starter before quickly checking the emails, then back out again.
Only extra bits I had to do was remove the sound generator for access.
Started the mounting bolts with the socket as advised, but found access too restricted for the lower one: ratchet wedged on the bell-housing.
I did find though that an old 3/8 AF ring spanner is a perfect fit.
I have two thin black wires, one to the top (8mm nut) and one to the bottom (10mm nut)
What Stuart has failed to mention is the guy with the welder who installed the motor in the first place!!!
Nearly an hour to remove it once all unbolted.
The locator peg had corroded and did not want to leave it's hole.
I recommend a good dose of WD40 before you start.
This how-to is another fine example.
Supposed to be wfh, so nipping out and doing a bit at a time to remove the dead starter before quickly checking the emails, then back out again.
Only extra bits I had to do was remove the sound generator for access.
Started the mounting bolts with the socket as advised, but found access too restricted for the lower one: ratchet wedged on the bell-housing.
I did find though that an old 3/8 AF ring spanner is a perfect fit.
I have two thin black wires, one to the top (8mm nut) and one to the bottom (10mm nut)
What Stuart has failed to mention is the guy with the welder who installed the motor in the first place!!!
Nearly an hour to remove it once all unbolted.
The locator peg had corroded and did not want to leave it's hole.
I recommend a good dose of WD40 before you start.
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Onlinebigwinn
- Lifer
- Posts: 4819
- Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2020 7:13 pm
- Location: Lincoln UK
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How to- Starter Motor replacement
Welded??
Sweet j3sus
Good job matey- spins up well now I trust?
Sweet j3sus
Good job matey- spins up well now I trust?
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- enuff_zed
- Lifer
- Posts: 15183
- Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2016 11:05 am
- Location: Attleborough, Norfolk
How to- Starter Motor replacement
Not actually welded, but it seemed like it for a while!
All bolted in and starts better than ever. Old one never span that fast since we had it.
Appreciate all the advice Monday night.
Stuck with the back end on ramps, blocking access to my E89, with Vall needing to use the daily and me needing to get to work!
Glad you knew how to get the auto box moveable.
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Onlinebigwinn
- Lifer
- Posts: 4819
- Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2020 7:13 pm
- Location: Lincoln UK
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How to- Starter Motor replacement
always a pleasureenuff_zed wrote: ↑Wed Jun 16, 2021 1:17 pmNot actually welded, but it seemed like it for a while!
All bolted in and starts better than ever. Old one never span that fast since we had it.
Appreciate all the advice Monday night.
Stuck with the back end on ramps, blocking access to my E89, with Vall needing to use the daily and me needing to get to work!
Glad you knew how to get the auto box moveable.
Will deffo pop over soon- keeping an eye on Liams race dates
If the forum helped you, why not help the forum back. Thats the Z4 way!
EWS Delete PM me
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- enuff_zed
- Lifer
- Posts: 15183
- Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2016 11:05 am
- Location: Attleborough, Norfolk
How to- Starter Motor replacement
So why did mine have 2 thin black wires and yours only one? Was yours a manual? Maybe its something to do with the gear selector on the auto?bigwinn wrote: ↑Wed Jun 16, 2021 1:56 pmalways a pleasureenuff_zed wrote: ↑Wed Jun 16, 2021 1:17 pmNot actually welded, but it seemed like it for a while!
All bolted in and starts better than ever. Old one never span that fast since we had it.
Appreciate all the advice Monday night.
Stuck with the back end on ramps, blocking access to my E89, with Vall needing to use the daily and me needing to get to work!
Glad you knew how to get the auto box moveable.
Will deffo pop over soon- keeping an eye on Liams race dates
Also, for anyone else attempting this, my replacement starter was longer than the old one too.
I pulled the old one out connector end first, but to fit the new one I had to put the 'drive' end in first and push it a little way into the housing to get room to swing the other end in.
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Onlinebigwinn
- Lifer
- Posts: 4819
- Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2020 7:13 pm
- Location: Lincoln UK
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How to- Starter Motor replacement
Possible due to auto/manual diffs I suppose?enuff_zed wrote: ↑Wed Jun 16, 2021 2:01 pmSo why did mine have 2 thin black wires and yours only one? Was yours a manual? Maybe its something to do with the gear selector on the auto?bigwinn wrote: ↑Wed Jun 16, 2021 1:56 pmalways a pleasureenuff_zed wrote: ↑Wed Jun 16, 2021 1:17 pm Not actually welded, but it seemed like it for a while!
All bolted in and starts better than ever. Old one never span that fast since we had it.
Appreciate all the advice Monday night.
Stuck with the back end on ramps, blocking access to my E89, with Vall needing to use the daily and me needing to get to work!
Glad you knew how to get the auto box moveable.
Will deffo pop over soon- keeping an eye on Liams race dates
Also, for anyone else attempting this, my replacement starter was longer than the old one too.
I pulled the old one out connector end first, but to fit the new one I had to put the 'drive' end in first and push it a little way into the housing to get room to swing the other end in.
I'll have a look on the 3L auto later on see what thats got on it
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- enuff_zed
- Lifer
- Posts: 15183
- Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2016 11:05 am
- Location: Attleborough, Norfolk
How to- Starter Motor replacement
Out of interest, I thought I'd see what had caused my starter motor to fail.
It was the original, marked up as 2003, so it hadn't done badly.
I know it's the brushes that wear, but I didn't think they'd look like this!
It was the original, marked up as 2003, so it hadn't done badly.
I know it's the brushes that wear, but I didn't think they'd look like this!
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Onlinebigwinn
- Lifer
- Posts: 4819
- Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2020 7:13 pm
- Location: Lincoln UK
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How to- Starter Motor replacement
Edit- I’m doing this on my 3.0 with sound generator and it’s nowhere near as easy
I’ve found that to get to the start point on the 2.2 you have to take the sound generator kit out leading up to the bulkhead
I’ve found that to get to the start point on the 2.2 you have to take the sound generator kit out leading up to the bulkhead
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