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Lets hope it dries up okay and all is well

If you are in the position with the boot shut, but the rear shell is not locked in place, there may be a way to open the boot.
I've done the pin 12 trick recently, so can help if you end up with that....but try this first.

With another helper, lift up the rear shell just enough to get your hand under. each side Look for the micro switch that triggers when the shell is closed and hold it in the closed position. There is one at each corner, once both are closed by hand, you should see the flashing red light go out, and you can now reach over and open the boot via the roundel.
DO NOT have someone try and close the roof via button or the remote, if it triggers it will take your fingers off.

Stash36 wrote: ↑Sat Jan 27, 2024 3:08 pm If you are in the position with the boot shut, but the rear shell is not locked in place, there may be a way to open the boot.
I've done the pin 12 trick recently, so can help if you end up with that....but try this first.

With another helper, lift up the rear shell just enough to get your hand under. each side Look for the micro switch that triggers when the shell is closed and hold it in the closed position. There is one at each corner, once both are closed by hand, you should see the flashing red light go out, and you can now reach over and open the boot via the roundel.
DO NOT have someone try and close the roof via button or the remote, if it triggers it will take your fingers off.

Cheers Stash, I plan to put the lock into service mode as soon as I get it open, I've done this before when working on the hall sensors.

Unfortunately my version of ISTA doesn't seem to have those that others have shown with the soft close element, mine only has window menu items and even they seem unresponsive.

I think I'll have to go down the other route and do the pin 12 trick. What steps did you take after exposing the fuse box and the bits you needed, was it a piece of wire to connect them?

Just follow the already linked thread:
viewtopic.php?t=144888

Bte123, who mentioned Ista? Read my post again, you can probably open the boot without the fusebox method. It works but is a pita

The correct way in Ist*a is via the JBE unit on top of the ECU diagram.

Stash36 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 28, 2024 10:57 pm Bte123, who mentioned Ista? Read my post again, you can probably open the boot without the fusebox method. It works but is a pita

it was mentioned earlier in the thread that there's a way to unlock and open the boot through INPA (and INSTA) but my installed INPA didn't have this option. anyway, shall be doing manual 12 pin method this week. thanks for the help.

RobbiZ4 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 28, 2024 11:11 pm The correct way in Ist*a is via the JBE unit on top of the ECU diagram.

Even in INPA the same story:
this function is ONLY located at the Junction Box (JBBF).

I think I have a further problem that I cannot think of a way around.

The problem with the roof seems to have drained the battery - putting the key in the ignition gives absolutely no result and trying to turn on the ignition the same - nothing.

Would the 12 pin trick still work with a dead battery? How does anyone get into the boot if the battery dies?

I've tried connecting the pin to the fuze with copper wire from an electrician friend but no result when I do this.

Any suggestions?

bte123 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 3:29 pm I think I have a further problem that I cannot think of a way around.

The problem with the roof seems to have drained the battery - putting the key in the ignition gives absolutely no result and trying to turn on the ignition the same - nothing.

Would the 12 pin trick still work with a dead battery? How does anyone get into the boot if the battery dies?

I've tried connecting the pin to the fuze with copper wire from an electrician friend but no result when I do this.

Any suggestions?

You need to use the main battery charging point in the engine bay..its a red plastic covered point near the bulkhead..remove the red cap and /or either put a jumper battery to that or a decent charger and recharge the battery..attend to charging the battery immediately otherwise it will be ruined and you'll need a new one of those to add to your woes..

B21 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 3:41 pm

bte123 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 3:29 pm I think I have a further problem that I cannot think of a way around.

The problem with the roof seems to have drained the battery - putting the key in the ignition gives absolutely no result and trying to turn on the ignition the same - nothing.

Would the 12 pin trick still work with a dead battery? How does anyone get into the boot if the battery dies?

I've tried connecting the pin to the fuze with copper wire from an electrician friend but no result when I do this.

Any suggestions?

You need to use the main battery charging point in the engine bay..its a red plastic covered point near the bulkhead..remove the red cap and /or either put a jumper battery to that or a decent charger and recharge the battery..attend to charging the battery immediately otherwise it will be ruined and you'll need a new one of those to add to your woes..

Thanks mate, this sounds like the next step. Though it's been a few days so could be completely dead. I'll give it a go with a charger and then see what happens.

Is the assumption that a battery with at least some charge in it should then mean the 12 pin trick will work?

bte123 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 3:53 pm

B21 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 3:41 pm

bte123 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 3:29 pm I think I have a further problem that I cannot think of a way around.

The problem with the roof seems to have drained the battery - putting the key in the ignition gives absolutely no result and trying to turn on the ignition the same - nothing.

Would the 12 pin trick still work with a dead battery? How does anyone get into the boot if the battery dies?

I've tried connecting the pin to the fuze with copper wire from an electrician friend but no result when I do this.

Any suggestions?

You need to use the main battery charging point in the engine bay..its a red plastic covered point near the bulkhead..remove the red cap and /or either put a jumper battery to that or a decent charger and recharge the battery..attend to charging the battery immediately otherwise it will be ruined and you'll need a new one of those to add to your woes..

Thanks mate, this sounds like the next step. Though it's been a few days so could be completely dead. I'll give it a go with a charger and then see what happens.

Is the assumption that a battery with at least some charge in it should then mean the 12 pin trick will work?

Pin 12 trick only requires a small amount of power..that's not the issue..flattening your battery on a E89 is a very bad thing to do..I can't remember in the thread as to how odl the battery was..

B21 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 4:02 pm

bte123 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 3:53 pm

B21 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 3:41 pm

You need to use the main battery charging point in the engine bay..its a red plastic covered point near the bulkhead..remove the red cap and /or either put a jumper battery to that or a decent charger and recharge the battery..attend to charging the battery immediately otherwise it will be ruined and you'll need a new one of those to add to your woes..

Thanks mate, this sounds like the next step. Though it's been a few days so could be completely dead. I'll give it a go with a charger and then see what happens.

Is the assumption that a battery with at least some charge in it should then mean the 12 pin trick will work?

Pin 12 trick only requires a small amount of power..that's not the issue..flattening your battery on a E89 is a very bad thing to do..I can't remember in the thread as to how odl the battery was..

Yes I've heard this. The stupid thing is it isn't driveable at the moment so taking it out and keeping what little charge was left in it wasn't really feasible. It's all been a mess and timings have been keeping me from being able to do anything about it.

It was a cheap purchase 5 years ago as a cat s for some bodywork damage but I got the feeling it had been severely unloved in general for some time. Mechanically it's absolutely purring but electric l roof has been a bit of a persistent thorn - the hydraulic motor is shafted and I desperately need to replace it, so I can then lock the roof in place and then actually drive it.

I'm guessing the frm module might be fecked after the battery drain, I've seen some services on eBay which will re program it and send it back so will prepare to have to remove that too I think.

Update:

popped the boot! i popped the boot!

had to reconnect a pin connector or two in the fuse box which id undone to get better access, put a jumper charger on through the point under the hood and then heard the sweetest of sweet sounds! thank god for you guys.

now... I've removed the pump from the hydraulic unit and am going to clean / dry it out over a day or two. i'll also be looking to dry out the entire footwell area, put some waterproof lining down (i have some waterproof tarp to use) and replace the foam (i've bought some from ebay).

for the life of me i can't work out where the water is getting in from. it isn't wet anywhere in the general area of the boot, only INBETWEEN the plastic layer cover and the actual fabric layer cover which covers the access to the battery / pump. very strange.

the next issue i might have is once the battery is charged the frm might be fecked, will have to wait and see.

The water usually comes through the rubber gaskets around rear lights or the vents in the boot...