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bte123 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 5:41 pm now... I've removed the pump from the hydraulic unit

Hopefully not all the 12 hydraulic hoses!! That's not an area to play without any knowledge!!!

But, if the pump really was Under water, you have to remove the cover of the motor to get it dried out completely.

You can remove the 2 screws on the absolute right of the motor to pull the metal cover off witbout any risk. Maybe the internal temperature sensor is dead, but that will come up later.

RobbiZ4 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 6:52 pm

bte123 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 05, 2024 5:41 pm now... I've removed the pump from the hydraulic unit

Hopefully not all the 12 hydraulic hoses!! That's not an area to play without any knowledge!!!

But, if the pump really was Under water, you have to remove the cover of the motor to get it dried out completely.

You can remove the 2 screws on the absolute right of the motor to pull the metal cover off witbout any risk. Maybe the internal temperature sensor is dead, but that will come up later.

i actually had to do this once before so absolutely, not touching the hoses. I've removed the motor alone and have cleaned and dried out both parts (they pull apart after you break the magnetic seal).

i've drilled two small sump holes into the base and dried it out. lets see what happens after the battery if fully charged, i suspect the frm is knackered so i'll send it off for repair if need be.

thanks for the input, the fusebox was one of the trickiest bits as it is so difficult to get to position wise and is only easy once you know how i guess.

Battery has been fully charged by an garage and I replaced it this morning. When I put the key in the ignition stage 1 is fine, radio lights, parking break and main central icon on dash comes on.

Absolutely nothing else however - so response when trying to get to 'stage 2' or starting the car, and no other electrical response

Would this possibly point to a bricked FRM? Would this prevent even starting the car or getting the full dash illuminated? I've removed it from under the foot well on drivers side and plan to send it off tomorrow as Carly reported an frm fault.

I did get ccid 719 on the dash but surely if the battery was completely totalled it wouldn't work at all? I thought I might try fixing the frm first then maybe try a new / replacement battery?

If anyone has insight it'd be appreciated but I do have one or two ideas to see how they play out in the meantime.

What voltage is the battery showing under load..?

Not usual for flaunt batteries to nominally recharge but then collapse as soon as any load applied..just had it with a big leisure battery that I let go flat..never been used ..shows 13v off load..any load and it’s down to 9v..but even CTEK says it’s ok and fully charged..

Then it’s fault code reader time assuming the battery is good..

B21 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 18, 2024 4:54 pm What voltage is the battery showing under load..?

Not usual for flaunt batteries to nominally recharge but then collapse as soon as any load applied..just had it with a big leisure battery that I let go flat..never been used ..shows 13v off load..any load and it’s down to 9v..but even CTEK says it’s ok and fully charged..

Then it’s fault code reader time assuming the battery is good..

I tried a brand new battery and I'm getting the same issue - some lights show that power is indeed going through the car (radio, parking break) but putting key in just illuminates the central dash elements and i get the bong of ccid 719 which 'indicates' a faulty battery. the new battery was registered to the car using carly and all went smoothly. Attempting to move into phase two of ignition does nothing, absolutely no more response from dash etc.

error code looked to be A3C1 - i had the frm module fixed and reconnected it before the new battery. was told this should just be plug and play.

im at a loss now, no idea where to turn.
i already have a new car and this one (14+ years old, cat s, speakers on their way out, hydraulic pump issues which started this whole thing) leading me to think this is just worth scrapping.

i can't start it to get it to an indy, it's probably only worth £500-£1000 on a private sale in working order anyway so don't really want to spend a few £100's getting it picked up, inspected, then worked on etc.

anyone want a track car? lol.

seriously, if anyone has any 'try this at home' next steps then great, but if not I think I'll get what I can for it and move on.

Just guessing here but could there be a problem with the immobiliser loosing sync with the key?