retrofit from stereo to s676a
Posted: Fri Jul 21, 2023 12:42 pm
Hello,
RE: diagrams
maybe they did it one way then discontinued the other way.
Just an update about this mod:
1) Dave, I followed your advise and did not solder any wires behind the headunit. I actually took more advantage of the existing wiring and used it as much as could. Though still some of the wiring had to be done assuming inconceivable positions whilst soldering as to ensuring messing with the car as little as possible. Thank you <3
2) I have finished 95% of the wiring. Posting some pics at the end of this post. I still need to do the connector in the fuse box for the power supply. I bought an e90 fuse box, which I will use as dummy but still does have the same time of connector which I could not find anywhere. Also waiting for rear ¾ tweeters be delivered and the 42-pin connector be delivered.
3) I am going to test the wiring; I ll check all the connections to the speakers using a pair of pin from the head unit (formerly powering a set of speakers, say 2 and 6), then I will use one speaker to check if all pins coming from the head unit are indeed sending audio.
4) Dave, earlier, for the coding, you said: “As for coding you'd have code $676 to the VO with FA_WRITE to CAS and NFRM and then SG_CODEIREN to CIC.” I remember I had to change the vehicle order (VO), but I was wondering if you could please give some more details/guidance on this. That would be pretty much appreciated!
5) About the door speakers + tweeter. I just wanted to double check. These originally were powered by the same wiring from the headunit. So basically one wire for left door tweeter and speaker and front sub and one wire for the set on the driver side (right); by the way the wiring for the driver side goes from the head unit to around the fuse box; at this point it then goes behind the whole dash board and pops back on the driver’s side, pretty much where the right front sub is.
Now, since both front left and right subs are powered by the same channel from the amplifier, I cut and seized the branch of the wiring going to them originally and reconnected them with the wiring coming from the amplifier. So I will still use the existing wiring for left door tweeter and speaker and right door tweeter and speaker.
Thanks
I hope this can help someone for this mod or something else too
Max
PICS:
Aerial diversity. Created a Y sections which will now go to the amp. Did this just on top of the rear left wheel arch as there is big harness.
CAN high and low; there were two pairs of wires one for the CTM and one for the parking distance sensor unit. Picked the latter as did not want to mess with the CTM. So used a multimeter with disconnected battery to make sure I was cutting the right pair. The wires were so thin and given the age of the car I thought they were going to crack or weaken. I decided to use surgical electrode needles to assess them. The Y section was done next to the amp so easy to connect to.
The rear ¾ speaker + tweeter was cut and extended to reach the amp, then from the amp I brought a couple of wires at this spot to reconnect speakers after audio s been boosted by the amp.
The bulk of the job was at the fuse box. I removed the glove box and front dashboard for easy access but still soldering positions to assume were kind of inconceivable to sustain for long periods.
RE: diagrams
maybe they did it one way then discontinued the other way.
Just an update about this mod:
1) Dave, I followed your advise and did not solder any wires behind the headunit. I actually took more advantage of the existing wiring and used it as much as could. Though still some of the wiring had to be done assuming inconceivable positions whilst soldering as to ensuring messing with the car as little as possible. Thank you <3
2) I have finished 95% of the wiring. Posting some pics at the end of this post. I still need to do the connector in the fuse box for the power supply. I bought an e90 fuse box, which I will use as dummy but still does have the same time of connector which I could not find anywhere. Also waiting for rear ¾ tweeters be delivered and the 42-pin connector be delivered.
3) I am going to test the wiring; I ll check all the connections to the speakers using a pair of pin from the head unit (formerly powering a set of speakers, say 2 and 6), then I will use one speaker to check if all pins coming from the head unit are indeed sending audio.
4) Dave, earlier, for the coding, you said: “As for coding you'd have code $676 to the VO with FA_WRITE to CAS and NFRM and then SG_CODEIREN to CIC.” I remember I had to change the vehicle order (VO), but I was wondering if you could please give some more details/guidance on this. That would be pretty much appreciated!
5) About the door speakers + tweeter. I just wanted to double check. These originally were powered by the same wiring from the headunit. So basically one wire for left door tweeter and speaker and front sub and one wire for the set on the driver side (right); by the way the wiring for the driver side goes from the head unit to around the fuse box; at this point it then goes behind the whole dash board and pops back on the driver’s side, pretty much where the right front sub is.
Now, since both front left and right subs are powered by the same channel from the amplifier, I cut and seized the branch of the wiring going to them originally and reconnected them with the wiring coming from the amplifier. So I will still use the existing wiring for left door tweeter and speaker and right door tweeter and speaker.
Thanks
I hope this can help someone for this mod or something else too
Max
PICS:
Aerial diversity. Created a Y sections which will now go to the amp. Did this just on top of the rear left wheel arch as there is big harness.
CAN high and low; there were two pairs of wires one for the CTM and one for the parking distance sensor unit. Picked the latter as did not want to mess with the CTM. So used a multimeter with disconnected battery to make sure I was cutting the right pair. The wires were so thin and given the age of the car I thought they were going to crack or weaken. I decided to use surgical electrode needles to assess them. The Y section was done next to the amp so easy to connect to.
The rear ¾ speaker + tweeter was cut and extended to reach the amp, then from the amp I brought a couple of wires at this spot to reconnect speakers after audio s been boosted by the amp.
The bulk of the job was at the fuse box. I removed the glove box and front dashboard for easy access but still soldering positions to assume were kind of inconceivable to sustain for long periods.