04 z4 e85 - Crank but no start

[NewToZ4]

Hey all,
I came back from university during the winter to find my poor z4 cranking without a start. This has continued through a new battery, and a jump start, that is to say it just cranks.

The only clue so far is that the “shrader valve” on the fuel rail doesn’t seem to be getting fuel at all (Personally, i am unfamiliar with how that system works and any information would be appreciated). We are unsure of if we can hear the fuel pump working, but it’s our only lead. We have adequately filled the tank, so it’s getting gas, and have checked the related fuses.

I have seen things about a EKPM, or the control module for the fuel pump, but the location i found for it was incorrect. I ripped up the trunk lining of our “parts car” (same car, just more mileage) to check its location and it was not there. My model is a 2004 z4 2.5i base package. There is no security, or any of the premium features, just as basic as can be.
Any help would be appreciated,
Thank you all

[enuff_zed]

Could well be the fuel pump.
The other thing that causes those symptoms is the EWS (immobiliser) so really you need to check the codes first.

[NewToZ4]

Could well be the fuel pump.
The other thing that causes those symptoms is the EWS (immobiliser) so really you need to check the codes first.

From the research i have done, the EWS will lock the wheel and there will be no crank. We have read the codes, and for some reason there seem to be plenty, and as i have asked here before, mostly they are related to options that are available with my wiring harness, but did not come packaged with the car. Is this typically the case, or would EWS simply cut fuel, and allow the starter to crank?

[enuff_zed]

I had an ongoing saga with a faulty DME. With bigwinn's help we eventually fixed it, but as part of our investigations we fitted a new DME but did not remove it's link to the EWS. We got faults telling us there was an incompatibility but the engine still cranked, it just would not fire. So the EWS must stop the fuel pump from running, or maybe cancels out ignition. but the starter still turned the engine over ok.

[NewToZ4]

Hey all,
I came back from university during the winter to find my poor z4 cranking without a start. This has continued through a new battery, and a jump start, that is to say it just cranks.

The only clue so far is that the “shrader valve” on the fuel rail doesn’t seem to be getting fuel at all (Personally, i am unfamiliar with how that system works and any information would be appreciated). We are unsure of if we can hear the fuel pump working, but it’s our only lead. We have adequately filled the tank, so it’s getting gas, and have checked the related fuses.

I have seen things about a EKPM, or the control module for the fuel pump, but the location i found for it was incorrect. I ripped up the trunk lining of our “parts car” (same car, just more mileage) to check its location and it was not there. My model is a 2004 z4 2.5i base package. There is no security, or any of the premium features, just as basic as can be.
Any help would be appreciated,
Thank you all

Update: the rear sub grille for the passenger side seemed to be coming off, so i opened it up and found a rats nest and a chewed wire. Pictures are attached but seeing as how it’s so close to the fuel pump, i figured i should see if anyone knows which wires they are.

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IMG_1249.png (370.66 KiB) Viewed 234 times

[NewToZ4]

I had an ongoing saga with a faulty DME. With bigwinn's help we eventually fixed it, but as part of our investigations we fitted a new DME but did not remove it's link to the EWS. We got faults telling us there was an incompatibility but the engine still cranked, it just would not fire. So the EWS must stop the fuel pump from running, or maybe cancels out ignition. but the starter still turned the engine over ok.

Thanks, that’s interesting definitely. I will be there later tonight to re-scan it and have a look at the chewed wires i posted here. Just curious though, i know to relink you have to have a specific software and possibly input the vin, and im just wondering what your eventual fix was?

[enuff_zed]

Screenshot 2024-01-16 192427.png (38.17 KiB) Viewed 230 times

[enuff_zed]

So the DME powers the Fuel Pump Relay (unless the EWS tells it not to I guess?)

Check Fuse F33 to ensure that the relay can be powered.
Then check Fuse F19 to be sure that power can pass through the relay to the pump.

Looks a pretty simple circuit to the pump.
A brown earth and a white/blue power supply.

[enuff_zed]

The fuel pump Relay (K6301) is mounted on the rear of the fuse box.

Screenshot 2024-01-16 193139.png (175.17 KiB) Viewed 227 times

[NewToZ4]

So the DME powers the Fuel Pump Relay (unless the EWS tells it not to I guess?)

Check Fuse F33 to ensure that the relay can be powered.
Then check Fuse F19 to be sure that power can pass through the relay to the pump.

Looks a pretty simple circuit to the pump.
A brown earth and a white/blue power supply.

Those fuel pump fuses were checked, along with a couple others that could’ve been related and the relay is fine. We ended up taking off panels to try and reveal the wires to see if more were chewed (didn’t find any), and found more rats nest to clean. No progress on the actual fuel pump problem, besides having access to the chewed wires that may or may not be related.

Side note: i have noticed that the lock from the inside does not work, i can only use the key to lock it. Not sure if that indicates anything about the state of the vehicle, but the hazards work and i have never had this happen before

[NewToZ4]

Could well be the fuel pump.
The other thing that causes those symptoms is the EWS (immobiliser) so really you need to check the codes first.

I checked the codes, and have some EWS and DME,
EWS CODE(1):
00000F - Voltage supply of ews3 module
DME CODE(4):
00299A - CAN fault management EGS
002746 - Digital Motor Electronics, Cylinder 2 Misfire
0027C7 - Digital Motor Electronics, Main relay, switching delay
0028B2 - Digital Motor Electronics, Speed limitation, reset

There’s other codes too, mostly for open circuit stuff that my car doesn’t have, just has the wiring for it. The code for the EWS3 I read is somewhat common, and to test the voltage directly, but it didn’t give a good way to do that, if anyone has any tips