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Hello,

I'm trying to do rod bearing swap myself using jack stand. I see some videos for M3. Not at all for Z4m. Any steps or details witth photo/videos to remove oil pans?

Here is the link of sound
Valve adjustment, vanos rebuild, cam shaft, rocker arm replacement were done. Is this noise coming from rod bearing? Or what can cause it?

https://youtube.com/shorts/vjVnohU0fC8? ... MM2REZehDB

Updated:
Better video here
https://youtube.com/shorts/ZvvYnqEh-n8? ... zFkmz7YI-a

A video inside the engine bay would help to identify the sound. Could be a timing chain rattle. https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=607732

That sounds like a rocker arm to me, I think rod knock is more of a thud - have you checked the oil filter at all to see if there are any metallic flakes / debris?

raymond.harper wrote: ↑Thu Feb 08, 2024 7:41 am A video inside the engine bay would help to identify the sound. Could be a timing chain rattle.

Hello, I will take a new video inside of engine bay and each part.

Simon 3.2M wrote: ↑Thu Feb 08, 2024 10:53 am That sounds like a rocker arm to me, I think rod knock is more of a thud - have you checked the oil filter at all to see if there are any metallic flakes / debris?

Hello, I recently purchased with new valve job+ rocker arm done + new oil changes, so I never tested yet. Any idea how much sample I need to take for blackstone lab? if it is small amount, I prefer to send it..

Doing rod bearings is a pretty major job.

As I understand it the front crossmember has to be removed to get the sump pan off, which means supporting the engine from above and is probably why it makes sense to fit new engine mounts at the same time.

I had my bearing shells and engine mounts replaced at 78K miles, but I've seen worn shells at around 50K and others no worse that had done over 100K!

Good luck anyway.

I did mine on axle stands in a single garage

Front cross member down
which has a lot of stuff bolted to it

The worst bit of the job is the engine oil dripping on you

To avoid this I removed the oil pan one weekend and cling filmed the bottom end to keep any dust and grit out, then the next weekend did the job

PM me if you want to talk you way through the job

PDJ wrote: ↑Thu Feb 08, 2024 10:58 pm I did mine on axle stands in a single garage

Front cross member down
which has a lot of stuff bolted to it

The worst bit of the job is the engine oil dripping on you

To avoid this I removed the oil pan one weekend and cling filmed the bottom end to keep any dust and grit out, then the next weekend did the job

PM me if you want to talk you way through the job

Thank you. Many Many questions... I sent you PM.

As I was dinging a lot of work on the front of the car I removed as much of the parts that bolted to the cross member as possible

I did remove the steering rack as well I can not remember if this needs to be removed or not

I will look back at my photos

If you search my posts by my user name it is all in the thread what have you done to your car

When you remove the oil pump to get at one or two of the rod bearings the relief valve needs checking it is integral to the oil pump so if it is worn it is a new pump or blank it off and fit an adjustable relief valve external to the engine

As above, that doesn't sound like a rod bearing, more top end.

sounds like a worn follower type noise....

Here is a new video clip. Definitely. It is coming from the top. Is it good to start to put a new tenionser?

https://youtube.com/shorts/ZvvYnqEh-n8? ... zFkmz7YI-a