Complete hood make over help

FsXTimmix · Post by **FsXTimmix** » Sat Feb 18, 2017 6:11 pm

I haven't driven my 2007 BMW z4 in just over a year. Since then, the hood has become very green moulded and the inside of the car has become damp. I have gently hosed off all the loose debris and am about to clean the hood and the rest of the car.
What is the best way for me to do this? I have read articles that say Johnston's baby bath is good for this type of job, but didn't want to take this advice before consulting the Z4 forum. Will this green mould on the hood plague me forever? Thanks!

Grumpyowl · Post by **Grumpyowl** » Sat Feb 18, 2017 6:15 pm

I would buy an Autoglym fabric roof cleaning kit.

Yorkie Z · Post by **Yorkie Z** » Sat Feb 18, 2017 6:20 pm

Take it down the jet wash and then AG

FsXTimmix · Post by **FsXTimmix** » Sat Feb 18, 2017 6:24 pm

Once I have it all clean, I want to refurbish it too. I've heard using AG Hood Sealer mixed with 50% black shoe polish can achieve a good look. This recommended?

Matt64 · Post by **Matt64** » Sat Feb 18, 2017 7:57 pm

You don't want to be arsing about with boot Polish and the like.
Renovo is the stuff to use. They do a cleaner & restorer. Used it for years on all mx5, it's good stuff.

patriot66 · Post by **patriot66** » Sat Feb 18, 2017 8:04 pm

When the hood is bone dry give it a good going over with a stiff nylon brush and your vacuum cleaner. This will lift loads of loose dirt from the fabric. I then mix a strong solution of TFR at 20:1 and thoroughly brush this in with the same stiff brush after wetting the hood with a hosepipe. Rinse any TFR from the windows or paintwork with the hosepipe as you work your way round the hood. If your fabric is in good condition then pressure wash completely and thoroughly from a distance of 18 inches or so. If the fabric is weathered then flush the hood with your hosepipe for a good while. Dry off as much water as possible with a microfibre towel. I then apply Fabsil Gold with a brush direct to the damp fabric. Let the hood dry completely for at least 24 hours. When it rains the water beads like you won't believe and lasts for months !
Some people on this forum mix liquid shoe polish with their waterproofer but my car has had a hardtop fitted through the winters all its life and so the fabric is in excellent condition.

Cookie · Post by **Cookie** » Sat Feb 18, 2017 9:12 pm

I have used the Renovo 3 pot proces today for the first time and been very impressed with the end result. Always been an Autoglym person before, but this time it wouldn't touch the sap spots after 3 attempts. Saw the Revono advertised, read lots of reviews, watched the YouTube vids and perched through Amazon £33.98. Should have taken before and after pics but wanted to get done in the day. Just make sure you follow the instructions.

mr wilks · Post by **mr wilks** » Sat Feb 18, 2017 9:19 pm

Yorkie Z wrote:Take it down the jet wash and then AG

Ruthless

but effective

there is a layer of waterproof rubber underneath the exterior so in reality there is no issue with doing this , i would errr on the side of caution though & avoid the really high pressure powerwashes at garages

FsXTimmix · Post by **FsXTimmix** » Sun Feb 19, 2017 8:54 pm

Just posting an update! I washed the hood using the power hose and gave it a good scrub around the bad areas and let it dry. These are the results so far. I've washed the hood again using AG hood cleaner and am waiting for it to dry

Hilly30si · Post by **Hilly30si** » Thu Feb 23, 2017 12:18 pm

As Andy said completely no use in applying waterproofing to the roof as its make up is a sandwich of mohair outer resin water proof middle layer, then inner layer. As said when the roof is bone dry brush with still nylon brush then vacuum off. I had my TT 8 years and that roof always looked brilliant, and its the only cleaning I ever did

dhobbs · Post by **dhobbs** » Thu Feb 23, 2017 8:19 pm

You can use a diluted Milton solution to kill the mould. Use an old toothbrush to agitate it in the grooves.

mr wilks · Post by **mr wilks** » Thu Feb 23, 2017 8:41 pm

Not looking too good there is it

Ive had them worse than that & it really doesn't take much to make them come back to new
A few hours effort & maximum spend (£20 )
Jmo but I would hold back from applying any form of waterproofer until you have it looking A1

This is how it should be after a clean & dye , then think about sealing

step_change · Post by **step_change** » Thu Feb 23, 2017 10:26 pm

I'm about to do mine as well and have bought the Renovo restorer/cleaner and then the water proofer after much research. I will take some before and after pics.

JAD · Post by **JAD** » Fri Feb 24, 2017 12:35 pm

mr wilks wrote:Not looking too good there is it

Ive had them worse than that & it really doesn't take much to make them come back to new
A few hours effort & maximum spend (£20 )
Jmo but I would hold back from applying any form of waterproofer until you have it looking A1

This is how it should be after a clean & dye , then think about sealing

That looks brilliant, Andy. What products out of interest? I'm a clean freak but no experience of dye-ing (dying looks/sounds wrong

)

JAD · Post by **JAD** » Fri Jun 09, 2017 4:01 pm

mr wilks wrote: ↑Thu Feb 23, 2017 8:41 pm Not looking too good there is it

Ive had them worse than that & it really doesn't take much to make them come back to new
A few hours effort & maximum spend (£20 )
Jmo but I would hold back from applying any form of waterproofer until you have it looking A1

This is how it should be after a clean & dye , then think about sealing

Can you recall what you used here, Andy?

Z4-forum.com

Z4-forum.com