E85 - Sound Deadening and Door Speakers

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PerryGunn
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E85 - Sound Deadening and Door Speakers

Post by PerryGunn » Fri Jul 05, 2013 1:42 pm

I originally posted this information in another thread but I thought I should reproduce it here as it's a more logical place if anyone is looking for the info

I wasn't very happy with the 'tinny' sound of the E85 doors when opening/closing, I heard all the arguments about 'It's a sports car, so it's to make
it lighter' but felt that an extra 4 or 5 pound in each door would hardly impact the performance, and the quality of the door sound was out-of-place with an upmarket car

So I decided that I'd add some sound deadening sheets to the inside of the outer door skin to make the doors feel more solid and, as I only have the basic 6-speaker stereo, and seeing as the door was going to be apart, I also decided that I'd add the 'missing' door speakers

I'll provide links to items similar to those that I used, and where possible I'll link to items on Amazon, you can probably find them cheaper on eBay etc. but the Amazon links are likely to be longer-lived. If I can't find it on Amazon, I'll try to provide an alternative

Parts list
- Panel tools http://www.amazon.co.uk/Yellow-No-Scrat ... B009YDZ3TM
- Butyl rubber sealing strip http://www.amazon.co.uk/TREMSHIELD-BUTY ... B008452SWQ
- Silent Coat Extra (4mm) http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/silent- ... -door.html
- Silent Coat (2mm) http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/silent- ... r-kit.html
- Seam roller http://www.amazon.co.uk/Faithfull-Soft- ... B000Y8OUAE
- 4" Speakers http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/hertz-dieci-dcx-100-3
- Soldering iron, speaker cable, crimp connectors, sharp utility knife etc.

NB This is how I did things, but please see the notes at the end of the post as I've listed things that, in hindsight, I would have done differently

I'm not going to discuss removing & replacing the door card and tweeter triangle as this is covered brilliantly in the BSW videos http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Djgcv-VpCW8 and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yq1uKzpxnAU

Once you have the door card and triangle removed, you'll be presented with this
Image
The only tip I have over and above the BSW videos is that you need to have your window down to remove the door card but once the card is off, and before you disconnect the window switches etc., raise the window again or you'll have trouble fitting the deadening sheets

The inside of the door card looks like this
Image
and you'll see the blanking plate for the door speaker, this is held in place with 3 x 8mm bolts. Remove the blanking plates and, with any luck you will find that two of the mounting holes for the new speaker will fit over the two bottom posts. Don't bolt them in place yet

You then need to bend the top speaker mounts to conform to the shape of the door card - not too difficult as the metal isn't particularly thick. Once you are happy with this, use a 'pointy thing' to mark where you need to drill small pilot holes. Remove the speaker and drill a couple of pilot holes with a 1 or 2mm drill bit - be very careful as you don't want to go through your leather. Replace the speaker and secure with the two bolts and a couple of 10mm self-tapping screws (technically self-tappers don't need a pilot hole, but I prefer to give them some guidance if possible)

You should end up with something similar to
Image

Next, using a suitibly sharp utilty knife cut some of the 2mm Silent Coat to shape and stick to the rear of the door card - use the roller wherever possible to ensure it is stuck down firmly. If you put deadening in the airbag 'pocket' ensure that you slice the deadening lengthways down the centre (see the perforated line in the first doorcard picture) so that the airbag can deploy correctly when needed - I put the Silent Coat in as a single piece and then slit it down the centre before replacing the doorcard, this picture was taken before I made the cuts
Image


In the 6-speaker stereo, the tweeter in the triangle above the door receives a full range signal and there is an in-line capacitor close to the tweeter to create a high pass filter - this is the black heatshrink-wrapped blob to the left of the tweeter in this photo. The tweeter cable is routed through a couple of strain-relief grooves at the bottom of the housing and held in place with something like rubber cement - I removed the glue (it just prises out) so that I had more cable to work with. When I replaced the cable in the grooves I used a hot glue gun rather than rubber cement.
Image

I made up some leads, the left-hand lead below was about 80cm long and has crimped female spade connectors on one end and male bullet connectors on the other, the right-hand lead is abut 15cm and has female bullet connectors and bare wire. After crimping, I also fill the wire end of the crimp connectors with a squirt from a hot glue gun as it acts a bit of additional strain relief
Image

Cut the tweeter connector wire about 5cm from the end, strip and solder back together along with the bare ends of the bullet connector wires - don't forget to place some heatshrink tubing on the tweeter wires before soldering or you'll have to go back and redo it (ask me how I know). The Tweeter cables have a black stripe on the +ve wire so ensure that you match this up with your speaker wire.
Image


Back at the car, we need to remove the airbag so disconnect the lead from the -ve terminal of your battery or you'll end up with an airbag warning light and a trip to the dealers to get it reset. When you disconnect the battery, it's a good idea to wrap the end of the disconnected lead in a thick plastic bag so there's no danger of accidental reconnection.
Image

Remove the 3 bolts holding the airbag in place and then remove the connector , mine had a black locking clip that needed to be lifted on each side befor the connector would release
Image

Work your way around the top half of the foam door membrane with a sharp utilty knife slicing through the middle of the butyl rubber seal, try not to cut or tear the foam - the butyl should still be very sticky. Small cuts or tears in the foam can be repaired with a sticky blob made from the butyl tape
Image

There's no need to cut all the way around, the top half will peel back allowing you access to the inside of the door
Image

Cut the Silent Coat to size/shape and cover as much of the outer doorskin as you can reach - using the roller wherever possible and firm hand pressure when you can't use the roller
Image

I put in two layers using half the pack of 4mm Silent Coat on each door as the first layer and then covering this with another layer of the 2mm. You should be able to hear the difference if you rap on the outside of the door with your knuckles, the doors should sound a lot more solid
Image

I then added another bead of butyl just inside the original - the original butyl is still very sticky so this may not be strictly necessary.
Image

Re-stick the door foam being careful to ensure that all wires go back in the correct places. While you are doing this run the new speaker wire from the tweeter location (bullet end) to the speaker location (spade end). Follow the existing loom and secure the speaker cable by going over & under the existing cables. Reconnect and replace the airbag module.

Replace the door card connecting the speaker wires to the speaker (ensure polarity is correct) as you do so

When you reconnect the tweeter plug the bullet connectors together and push any spare wire behind the door card - I wrapped the wires in a small piece of bubblewrap to prevent any rattling
Image

If you turn on your stereo and wonder why nothing works, get out of the car and reconnect the battery :wink:


In Hindsight:

- I wouldn't bother with the pack of Silent Coat Extra (6 x 4mm sheets), the volume pack of Silent Coat (20 x 2mm sheets) is easily enough to do both doors and door cards.

- I'd tap into the tweeter feed lower down in the door and crimp a bullet socket onto the car side of the feed and then crimp both the door speaker and tweeter feed together into a bullet plug, once connected I'd add some heatshrink over them as additional damp-proofing. This would be very neat and easier than soldering.
Last edited by PerryGunn on Sun Jan 19, 2014 8:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: E85 - Sound Deadening and Door Speakers

Post by edd_jedi » Thu Sep 12, 2013 10:46 am

Just wanted to say that I found this very useful today while sorting out my damaged weather membrane :)
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Re: E85 - Sound Deadening and Door Speakers

Post by Chazaxl » Mon Sep 16, 2013 8:12 am

Just bought a Z4 and was thinking of doing this. Was it worth the effort to sound deaden?

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Re: E85 - Sound Deadening and Door Speakers

Post by PerryGunn » Mon Sep 16, 2013 4:08 pm

Chazaxl wrote:Just bought a Z4 and was thinking of doing this. Was it worth the effort to sound deaden?
Everyone who's put in the sound deadening seems to think it's been a worthwhile exercise
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Re: E85 - Sound Deadening and Door Speakers

Post by Chazaxl » Mon Sep 16, 2013 6:01 pm

PerryGunn wrote:
Chazaxl wrote:Just bought a Z4 and was thinking of doing this. Was it worth the effort to sound deaden?
Everyone who's put in the sound deadening seems to think it's been a worthwhile exercise
Thanks - will be doing the same - considering doing some over the floor too - it can only help.

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Re: E85 - Sound Deadening and Door Speakers

Post by gingertosser » Mon Sep 16, 2013 9:23 pm

i dont think the sound deadening in the airbag exit in the door card was a good idea but nice Wright up

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Re: E85 - Sound Deadening and Door Speakers

Post by PerryGunn » Sun Oct 20, 2013 9:02 am

gingertosser wrote:i dont think the sound deadening in the airbag exit in the door card was a good idea but nice Wright up
It should be fine as long as you keep the deadening in two halves (either side of the fracture line) so it doesn't inhibit the panel splitting should the airbag go off
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Re: E85 - Sound Deadening and Door Speakers

Post by Spikey » Sun Oct 20, 2013 9:16 am

Very useful post - ill keep this one tagged for the future ( when I get brave enough)

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Re: E85 - Sound Deadening and Door Speakers

Post by EJL » Thu Jan 23, 2014 5:27 pm

Great post - hope to do this in the future!
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Re: E85 - Sound Deadening and Door Speakers

Post by RenoRaines » Thu Mar 26, 2015 10:05 pm

PerryGunn wrote: In the 6-speaker stereo, the tweeter in the triangle above the door receives a full range signal and there is an in-line capacitor close to the tweeter to create a high pass filter - this is the black heatshrink-wrapped blob to the left of the tweeter in this photo.
Help me a bit here.

Looking at wiring diagram it shows that signal for tweeter and front woofer are shared. And rear mid range speaker (behind your head) is alone on channel.
Another thing that puzzles me;
Base 6 speaker system:
Tweeter 4 Ohm
Footwell Woofer 2 Ohm
MID range rear 4 Ohm

If I understand correctly you've added a pair of 4 Ohm speakers on front Tweeter/Woofer channel? So you've split the resistance?

EDIT:
After calculating you haven't altered ohm load much. Probably that's why the system still works although it's a bit more strain for radio's amp to drive 2 additional speakers.

Resistance of original setup would have been 1,3 Ohms. With added speakers you get Ohm load of exactly 1 Ohm.
Last edited by RenoRaines on Thu Mar 26, 2015 10:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: E85 - Sound Deadening and Door Speakers

Post by PerryGunn » Thu Mar 26, 2015 10:30 pm

RenoRaines wrote: Looking at wiring diagram it shows that signal for tweeter and front woofer are shared. And rear mid range speaker (behind your head) is alone on channel.
Another thing that puzzles me;
Base 6 speaker system:
Tweeter 4 Ohm
Footwell Woofer 2 Ohm
MID range rear 4 Ohm

If I understand correctly you've added a pair of 4 Ohm speakers on front Tweeter/Woofer channel? So you've split the resistance?
Effectively another 4ohm speaker has been wired in parallel with the 4ohm tweeter this gives an effective resistance the same as a 2ohm speaker or, to look at another way, it's the same as replacing the tweeter with an aftermarket 2ohm unit

This means that the amplifier will be delivering twice the current but the effective SPL will be +3db which is a doubling of SPL (assuming identical speakers) so you would require less current to achieve the same SPL as the original config i.e. you'd have the volume knob turned down a bit.

At the end of the day, lots of people had done this before me and it doesn't seem to have caused any issues for anyone
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Re: E85 - Sound Deadening and Door Speakers

Post by RenoRaines » Thu Mar 26, 2015 11:01 pm

The other thing to consider is of course the current. I would like to continue the story. So front speakers are driven from the same channel. Instead of adding front speaker would it be able to add 2 bass speaker in the rear. Rear channel speakers are "alone" on the channel. Could you simply add 2 OEM (2 Ohm from HiFi option for instance) speakers on the back using the existing channels?

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Re: E85 - Sound Deadening and Door Speakers

Post by PerryGunn » Fri Mar 27, 2015 7:25 am

RenoRaines wrote:The other thing to consider is of course the current. I would like to continue the story. So front speakers are driven from the same channel. Instead of adding front speaker would it be able to add 2 bass speaker in the rear. Rear channel speakers are "alone" on the channel. Could you simply add 2 OEM (2 Ohm from HiFi option for instance) speakers on the back using the existing channels?
I believe that people have tried this before but with limited success. The consensus seems to be that, once you get past adding the door speaker and possibly replacing the footwell woofer & door tweeter with better-quality units, you should be looking at an amplified setup.
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Re: E85 - Sound Deadening and Door Speakers

Post by SamUK » Wed May 06, 2015 7:16 pm

Great, just what i was looking for..

I am installing new 4" components and 6.5" Mid Bass Speakers on the weekend

Amp & Jl Clean Sweep in the following Weeks (powering the 4" & 6.5" speakers - in the interm these will be powered via the head unit.

So my question:

My 4" components have Cross overs with them, would i simply remove the wire from the existing 4" speaker and connect this to the cross over - then take new wires from the cross over to the new 4" & new tweeter

How much of the inner door were you able to get through the holes? is it near the size of the hole or covering a bigger area inside?

I wonder if its worth putting on on the outer part of the door were the weather proof thing goes on?

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Re: E85 - Sound Deadening and Door Speakers

Post by PerryGunn » Thu May 07, 2015 10:00 am

SamUK wrote:Great, just what i was looking for..
My 4" components have Cross overs with them, would i simply remove the wire from the existing 4" speaker and connect this to the cross over - then take new wires from the cross over to the new 4" & new tweeter
The standard 6-speaker setup doesn't have the 4" door speakers (just space/mounting points for them) - you'd take the feed to the door tweeter and connect it to you crossover (this feed is full range) and then connect your new speakers to the crossover.
SamUK wrote:How much of the inner door were you able to get through the holes? is it near the size of the hole or covering a bigger area inside?
You can cover the majority of the outer doorskin through the holes, there comes a point where it narrows down and you can't get your fingers in far enough to press teh sheets down but you can use a flat trim tool to get a bit further
SamUK wrote:I wonder if its worth putting on on the outer part of the door were the weather proof thing goes on?
If you wanted to add some mass to the inner doorskin, you could add silentcoat to the rear of the inner panel (the one with the holes in it) - not sure how much it would help as this panel is mostly 'hole'
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