Changed the oil. The wonderful human who was the previous owner used an M12x1.25x15mm bolt as the drain plug. The keen eyed will note that M12x1.25 is not the proper thread. So 1/2 of the threads came out with the drain plug. Super. Initially I thought it was me going 'Snug plus one' on the drain plug, however after I ordered and received (+1 day from start of oil change) an M12x1.5 helicoil and noted that the drain plug threaded in correctly to the unstretched coil, meaning that the bolt thread was wrong. Checking with my thread pitch gauge confirmed M12x1.25. I was able to locally source the correct drain plug and it is longer so it will actually grab the remaining threads (+2 days from start of oil change). I had to order a tap to chase the threads. After that arrived (+4 days from start of oil change) I was able to clean the remaining threads and realign them. The new drain plug went in with no issue, threaded fully and was able to get finger tight before snugging with a wrench. All in all a 15min oil change turned into a 5 day affair. That said, it actually DID have oil! It was just about 3qt low. With the amount dripping out of the oil pan gasket, I cannot imagine where it is all going /s. Engine will come out next year for a good cleaning and rebuild.
No drips from the drain plug to date.
I was also able to update the gauge cluster. The true mileage was not far off from the display. Under 1000mi, the original tamper dot reading was 116150ish, and the actual mileage is currently 116910. That was a nightmare but it is corrected. It took over a month to receive the chips from China and I bought the blue board 270+ programmer, also from China, both shipped on the same day, and the programmer arrived in about a week. Note: You do NOT need to replace the chip! If you program 0 mile and 0 VIN to the M35080 chip, and resolder it to the board, use PASoft to push the VIN from the LMS/EWS, and after 2 key cycles with matching VINs, the LMS will automatically push the stored ODO to the cluster. The trouble with the M35080 EEPROM is that you cannot MANUALLY set the mileage with PASoft. However setting it to 0 mile and 0 VIN will properly correct it without needing to buy over priced chips ($30 for 5? Come on..) that take 2 weeks in customs, go to the local delivery hub, then end up 3 hours away in another state for 2 weeks, and then end up BACK at the local hub for another 3 days before being delivered.
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I am also down to 1 fault code throwing the check engine light. Stupid post-cat O2 is dead. Reading is a flat .43v while the other one is over .5v fluctuating. The doofus had the post cats plugged in wrong which was setting off the post-cat O2 ready and O2 heater circuit codes.
Also need to figure out the random cyl misfire. I need to pull the plugs to see what is going on. It might be oil getting in from the valve cover gasket as the coils were changed recently.
Had a quote from a body shop that it will be between $300 and $500 to pull the frame straight. I am more than OK with that.
Ordered leather samples from LSEAT (US Based company) and they have a red that is JUST a hair brighter than the dream red. So I am going to order new seat leathers from them and save some money on full seat replacements. The gray they have is spot on for the gray leather on the door cards so I might order extra of that.
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