2013 z4 wiring diagram

[Clbglobal]

Hi, I have an issue with my 2013 Z4, UK edition. The battery went dead from sitting so my son removed it, recharged it and put it back. He noticed that the boot was wet when he was changing the battery, which I put down to a sloppy repair following the car being rearended. I intended to take it back to the body shop, but when I went to start it the next day, it went into lockdown mode. The warning light for the retractable roof flashes and the boot refuses to unlock and the car will not start or unlock the steering. The manual shows a switch by the drivers door jan but it doesn't exist, and neither does the "manual" release on the latch inside the boot, because although shown in the instructions there is no opening behind the seats that allows access. I went to BMW service manager and asked him and he claims he has never heard of this happening. I had a local mechanic plug in his computer to check and he says it shows a problem in a module but not which one and he said the modules are in the boot which we can't get open to check! Catch 22. I am a controls electrician and to me, one or more interlocks is keeping the engine from starting and the boot from unlocking. I can't seem to find a wiring diagram to see if I can figure out how to bypass the interlocks. Does anyone have any answers?

[B21]

Welcome…it’s a common story…do you still have power ? ie can you power up most of the car ?

If not it’s probable that the battery that was recharged just died.

Best option is to put a decent fully charged battery on the red jump point in the engine bay..it may then give you enough power to operate the boot etc..if not you could try putting a charger across the good battery and try and inject some life in the dead battery in the boot and repeat…

[Clbglobal]

Hi, I bought a new battery and did the jump start thing but no results. It appears that the interlocks have locked everything out for some reason. I am trying to find a wiring diagram so that I can pinpoint the interlocks and then see if they can be bypassed.

[Chippie]

Have you checked the voltage across the red plastic covered positive post and the ground under the bonnet to check you definitely have 12 volts

[B21]

Have you checked the voltage across the red plastic covered positive post and the ground under the bonnet to check you definitely have 12 volts

[Chippie]

Re reading your post I presume the new battery isn’t in the car and you are using that on the terminals under the bonnet?
If so and the original battery is in the boot and dead then that will act as a “sink” draining the battery you are connecting, have you tried connecting another running car to the jump points? Let the other car fast idle with the lights on for about 15 minutes and then try to start your car, there’s no reason for the car not to start because of a roof or boot fault, I suspect you have a faulty micro switch signalling that the roof is isn’t closed and so not allowing the boot to open.
Once you get the car running then use the cabin buttons to open and close the roof, with a little luck you may then be able to open the boot, failing that you will need something like ISTA to open the boot or search for the “pin 12” methods in the fuse box to pop the boot.
Hope this helps.