EPS Motor removal

[Nidge]

Hi All

BMW Z4 E85 2005 2.0i

I have the well documented intermittent EPS warning light and heavy steering problem. I've been round the 'net and concluded that sending off the EPS motor for a rebuild is likely to be the most appropriate course of action.

A few questions if I may:

1) - it seems that the fault occurs when the footwell gets hot (heater on or a v hot day). Anyone else had or noticed that issue?

2) - is there a way to be reasonably certain that its the EPS (or the ECU of the EPS)?

3) - can anyone point me at instructions to remove the EPS motor without taking the column out? I've found several sets which go all the way, but not come across one which deals specifically with just the motor.

4) - last but not least, is there an OBD2 app which can interrogate the EPS ECU? or do I need to take it to a dealer?

Many thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

Nidge
PS - I'm a very amateur mechanic, definitely not an engineer!

[enuff_zed]

Where are you? Anywhere near Norfolk? I’ve done a few now and it would be easy to help you through it, takes me about an hour, including removing the seat and steering wheel for access.
All you need is a screwdriver to remove the trim, an 8mm ratchet ring spanner to remove the two bolts, and snips to remove the tywraps from one of the cables.
When the light comes on get a code reader on it. If it cannot communicate then it is the EPS ECU.
You will also find the sport button won’t work.

If you search on my previous posts I’ve written about this several times.

Or PM me a contact number and I can talk you through it.

[Nidge]

Sadly nowhere near. I'm down in the heart of Devon. I see you've made 13278 posts so it might take me a while to read through

'A code reader' I assume (correct me pls) thats an OBD2 reader? I've got a veepeak ble reader and car scanner and scan master apps on my (android) phone. Should that do it?

[enuff_zed]

Sadly nowhere near. I'm down in the heart of Devon. I see you've made 13278 posts so it might take me a while to read through

'A code reader' I assume (correct me pls) thats an OBD2 reader? I've got a veepeak ble reader and car scanner and scan master apps on my (android) phone. Should that do it?

Whereabouts in Devon?
18th December we are heading to Perranporth for two weeks over Xmas/NY. Wouldn't be inconceivable for me to drop by if you're near my route, but it would be on the Monday (18th).
I do know that Creator 310+, 410+ or Autophix 5900 can do this. As would more complex software such as INPA, ISTA, Scanner 1.4 etc.
Sorry but I have no knowledge of the one you have, but it's a pretty basic premise. If the EPS ECU fails then it doesn't communicate swith anything.

[Nidge]

Thanks that's very kind of you to offer but I think I'm going to be brave & have a go this week. After all, what could possibly go wrong

I'll let you know how I get on, but if all else fails I'll take you up on the phone offer.

All the best & fingers crossed.

[instigata]

After all, what could possibly go wrong

Famous last words I had the same problem a few months ago. Even ordered a motor. My problem was that the car wasn't driven frequently and had a low-ish battery. I have INPA on the laptop, cleared out the code - the EPS light remained on. (And I ordered the motor). I rechecked a few days later - no light! Started driving frequently (batter remains topped up), and no light and steering is fine. (And I have a spare motor )

Hope that helps.

[enuff_zed]

Thanks that's very kind of you to offer but I think I'm going to be brave & have a go this week. After all, what could possibly go wrong

I'll let you know how I get on, but if all else fails I'll take you up on the phone offer.

All the best & fingers crossed.

I have a complete column in my garage. If you wanted a WhatsApp video call to talk it through I could show you how to access it all.
Before you start, use a permanent pen to mark a datum line across the motor and the spacer so you get them aligned when you put it back together.
Have the snips close by when you lift the motor out.
Only the lower plug is easily removed in situ.
The other two can be done when it’s lowered but one is cable tied to the motor and the cable is not long enough to rest the motor on the floor while you unplug it, so you need to snip the ties as you are holding the weight of it.
As long as you get the cable routed correctly when you rebuild you don’t have to worry about refitting those ties.

[Nidge]

After all, what could possibly go wrong

Famous last words I had the same problem a few months ago. Even ordered a motor. My problem was that the car wasn't driven frequently and had a low-ish battery. I have INPA on the laptop, cleared out the code - the EPS light remained on. (And I ordered the motor). I rechecked a few days later - no light! Started driving frequently (batter remains topped up), and no light and steering is fine. (And I have a spare motor )

Hope that helps.

After all, what could possibly go wrong

Famous last words I had the same problem a few months ago. Even ordered a motor. My problem was that the car wasn't driven frequently and had a low-ish battery. I have INPA on the laptop, cleared out the code - the EPS light remained on. (And I ordered the motor). I rechecked a few days later - no light! Started driving frequently (batter remains topped up), and no light and steering is fine. (And I have a spare motor )

Hope that helps.

Thanks. I think unlikely in my case as I keep the battery topped up on a trickle charger all the time, precisely because I don't use often. I do hope I don't get the same result as you, I'd be well pee'd off. Are you selling your motor?

[instigata]

Thanks. I think unlikely in my case as I keep the battery topped up on a trickle charger all the time, precisely because I don't use often. I do hope I don't get the same result as you, I'd be well pee'd off. Are you selling your motor?

Hi again. Yes - selling motor. Feel free to PM.