Not joined yet? Register for free and enjoy features such as alerts, private messaging and viewing latest posts and topics.
Starter Motor location on E86 3.0
-
- Lifer
- Posts: 3436
- Joined: Tue Sep 29, 2020 10:37 pm
- Location: North Hampshire
Starter Motor location on E86 3.0
I can’t see you being able to do it from underneath. I have a little mirror on an extendable pole (like a selfie stick) which with a hand torch is great for a recce before you go in blind.
2003 Maldives Blue 3.0i auto
Previously: Maldives Blue 2.5i manual (its back!) and another, and a Monaco Blue 3.0Si coupe
Previously: Maldives Blue 2.5i manual (its back!) and another, and a Monaco Blue 3.0Si coupe
-
- Member
- Posts: 399
- Joined: Thu Nov 16, 2017 11:08 pm
- Location: Peterborough
Starter Motor location on E86 3.0
I did mine in December.
I removed the air intake and intake manifold to access the starter (after trying the 'don't need to remove major components' methods without success for several hours), because it was impossible for me to remove the motor from underneath the manifold (Even using the methods described). As long as you are gentle with the manifold it is no major task, took just over an hour and is relatively simple to do. I stuck all the bolts I had to remove into a piece of card with a basic drawing of where they came from on it, so I didn't muddle up where they went back. Take a photo of the inlet valve orientation as well as this is not always clear on rebuild. Also you will need a pair of replacement starter motor bolts as they are single use. There is no access from below as the block and bell housing are directly underneath the starter.
I hope this helps
I removed the air intake and intake manifold to access the starter (after trying the 'don't need to remove major components' methods without success for several hours), because it was impossible for me to remove the motor from underneath the manifold (Even using the methods described). As long as you are gentle with the manifold it is no major task, took just over an hour and is relatively simple to do. I stuck all the bolts I had to remove into a piece of card with a basic drawing of where they came from on it, so I didn't muddle up where they went back. Take a photo of the inlet valve orientation as well as this is not always clear on rebuild. Also you will need a pair of replacement starter motor bolts as they are single use. There is no access from below as the block and bell housing are directly underneath the starter.
I hope this helps
Montego blue 2006 BMW Z4 coupe 3.0si with black interior, ZHP, Whippy, 12mm front/16mm rear spacers on BBS 108's wrapped in Michelin PS4's. :driving:Brand new Pierburg water pump fitted at 101k after failure (should have done it at 100k)
- pvr
- Legend
- Posts: 26340
- Joined: Fri Jun 15, 2007 12:27 pm
- Location: South East UK
Starter Motor location on E86 3.0
Thanks for that, saves me trying to see and waste my time
Current:
911-50 Black - unique spec
X5M - 575 hp of fun in a V8
Abarth 595 Comp.
Golf Clipper - collectors item
Z4 3.0si Black Sapphire
VW ID.3
Previous:
Z4M Silver Grey - non flimper spec (gone to Bing)
Z4 3.0 Toledo
911-50 Black - unique spec
X5M - 575 hp of fun in a V8
Abarth 595 Comp.
Golf Clipper - collectors item
Z4 3.0si Black Sapphire
VW ID.3
Previous:
Z4M Silver Grey - non flimper spec (gone to Bing)
Z4 3.0 Toledo
- chanlon1
- Member
- Posts: 465
- Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2023 11:36 pm
- Location: Belfast
Starter Motor location on E86 3.0
Thanks for the advice AveZ4Coop.
I guess the next question….easy to remove the manifold?
I guess the next question….easy to remove the manifold?
E86 Z4 Coupe 2006 Silver
-
- Member
- Posts: 399
- Joined: Thu Nov 16, 2017 11:08 pm
- Location: Peterborough
Starter Motor location on E86 3.0
It is quite easy. Plenty of guides on here for removing the manifold (Basic rundown below). Just be gentle with the plastic components.
Take off the air filter box and inlet pipework. Remove plastic top cover from engine and unplug cabling in way of manifold bolts (Photograph beforehand if unsure of where it goes). Undo the (approx. 10) bolts retaining the manifold to the head (but don't try to remove yet). Undo and remove the 4 bolts on the inlet valve below the manifold. Gently prise of the inlet valve and retain the gaskets. GENTLY prise off the manifold from the head, it will still be retained by some wiring and pipework but will move enough to give you enough room to remove the starter motor.
Refitting is the same in reverse.
Take off the air filter box and inlet pipework. Remove plastic top cover from engine and unplug cabling in way of manifold bolts (Photograph beforehand if unsure of where it goes). Undo the (approx. 10) bolts retaining the manifold to the head (but don't try to remove yet). Undo and remove the 4 bolts on the inlet valve below the manifold. Gently prise of the inlet valve and retain the gaskets. GENTLY prise off the manifold from the head, it will still be retained by some wiring and pipework but will move enough to give you enough room to remove the starter motor.
Refitting is the same in reverse.
Montego blue 2006 BMW Z4 coupe 3.0si with black interior, ZHP, Whippy, 12mm front/16mm rear spacers on BBS 108's wrapped in Michelin PS4's. :driving:Brand new Pierburg water pump fitted at 101k after failure (should have done it at 100k)
-
- Lifer
- Posts: 3436
- Joined: Tue Sep 29, 2020 10:37 pm
- Location: North Hampshire
Starter Motor location on E86 3.0
To be fair, the NewTIS instructions for N52 does say remove the intake plenum first, whereas for the M54 it doesn’t. Hope this helps (instructions and view of starter motor with plenum removed). Oh, and you need torx spanners for the aluminium bolts.
2003 Maldives Blue 3.0i auto
Previously: Maldives Blue 2.5i manual (its back!) and another, and a Monaco Blue 3.0Si coupe
Previously: Maldives Blue 2.5i manual (its back!) and another, and a Monaco Blue 3.0Si coupe
- thecremeegg
- Member
- Posts: 771
- Joined: Sat Jan 23, 2016 11:43 am
- Location: North Hampshire
Starter Motor location on E86 3.0
I did mine the other day, not hard only a bit fiddly if you have big hands
Z4M - Interlagos Blue with Black Leather
Z4 3.0i - Sapphire Black with Red Leather - FOR SALE!
Z4 3.0i - Sapphire Black with Red Leather - FOR SALE!
- enuff_zed
- Lifer
- Posts: 15004
- Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2016 11:05 am
- Location: Attleborough, Norfolk
Starter Motor location on E86 3.0
I did PVR's last Friday. Not having done one before I was expecting a struggle.
I ended up removing the air filter box complete back to the front of the sound generator, unplugged a sensor near the front top of the manifold, undid the screw securing the fuel pipe to the rear of the manifold (purely to give another inch of movement), then removed the half dozen bolts and screws securing the manifold. Nothing else needed. This gave me enough room to lift the manifold and reach in from the front to access the electrical connectors and the short mounting bolt. The long bolt was easily rreached from the rear.
Whole job took around 45 minutes which was a pleasant surprise.
Test start and it was completely dead!!
Reconnected the battery and it worked.
I ended up removing the air filter box complete back to the front of the sound generator, unplugged a sensor near the front top of the manifold, undid the screw securing the fuel pipe to the rear of the manifold (purely to give another inch of movement), then removed the half dozen bolts and screws securing the manifold. Nothing else needed. This gave me enough room to lift the manifold and reach in from the front to access the electrical connectors and the short mounting bolt. The long bolt was easily rreached from the rear.
Whole job took around 45 minutes which was a pleasant surprise.
Test start and it was completely dead!!
Reconnected the battery and it worked.
- chanlon1
- Member
- Posts: 465
- Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2023 11:36 pm
- Location: Belfast
- thecremeegg
- Member
- Posts: 771
- Joined: Sat Jan 23, 2016 11:43 am
- Location: North Hampshire
Starter Motor location on E86 3.0
I've done two and you only need to remove the airbox really, but like with any job on these cars, the more you remove the easier it gets hahenuff_zed wrote: ↑Wed Jan 10, 2024 5:45 pm I did PVR's last Friday. Not having done one before I was expecting a struggle.
I ended up removing the air filter box complete back to the front of the sound generator, unplugged a sensor near the front top of the manifold, undid the screw securing the fuel pipe to the rear of the manifold (purely to give another inch of movement), then removed the half dozen bolts and screws securing the manifold. Nothing else needed. This gave me enough room to lift the manifold and reach in from the front to access the electrical connectors and the short mounting bolt. The long bolt was easily rreached from the rear.
Whole job took around 45 minutes which was a pleasant surprise.
Test start and it was completely dead!!
Reconnected the battery and it worked.
Z4M - Interlagos Blue with Black Leather
Z4 3.0i - Sapphire Black with Red Leather - FOR SALE!
Z4 3.0i - Sapphire Black with Red Leather - FOR SALE!
- enuff_zed
- Lifer
- Posts: 15004
- Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2016 11:05 am
- Location: Attleborough, Norfolk
Starter Motor location on E86 3.0
If you only remove the air box how do you reach the starter connections and which way do you remove it? I can do an M54 with just the sound generator off but couldn’t see enough gap on the N52.thecremeegg wrote: ↑Thu Jan 11, 2024 10:33 pmI've done two and you only need to remove the airbox really, but like with any job on these cars, the more you remove the easier it gets hahenuff_zed wrote: ↑Wed Jan 10, 2024 5:45 pm I did PVR's last Friday. Not having done one before I was expecting a struggle.
I ended up removing the air filter box complete back to the front of the sound generator, unplugged a sensor near the front top of the manifold, undid the screw securing the fuel pipe to the rear of the manifold (purely to give another inch of movement), then removed the half dozen bolts and screws securing the manifold. Nothing else needed. This gave me enough room to lift the manifold and reach in from the front to access the electrical connectors and the short mounting bolt. The long bolt was easily rreached from the rear.
Whole job took around 45 minutes which was a pleasant surprise.
Test start and it was completely dead!!
Reconnected the battery and it worked.
- chanlon1
- Member
- Posts: 465
- Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2023 11:36 pm
- Location: Belfast
Starter Motor location on E86 3.0
My new starter motor from Autodoc arrived today. Just need to add this to my ever growing list of things to do over winter on it.......
E86 Z4 Coupe 2006 Silver
- pvr
- Legend
- Posts: 26340
- Joined: Fri Jun 15, 2007 12:27 pm
- Location: South East UK
Starter Motor location on E86 3.0
And it is almost spring
Current:
911-50 Black - unique spec
X5M - 575 hp of fun in a V8
Abarth 595 Comp.
Golf Clipper - collectors item
Z4 3.0si Black Sapphire
VW ID.3
Previous:
Z4M Silver Grey - non flimper spec (gone to Bing)
Z4 3.0 Toledo
911-50 Black - unique spec
X5M - 575 hp of fun in a V8
Abarth 595 Comp.
Golf Clipper - collectors item
Z4 3.0si Black Sapphire
VW ID.3
Previous:
Z4M Silver Grey - non flimper spec (gone to Bing)
Z4 3.0 Toledo
- thecremeegg
- Member
- Posts: 771
- Joined: Sat Jan 23, 2016 11:43 am
- Location: North Hampshire
Starter Motor location on E86 3.0
Ah the N52 might be slightly different, I've only done it on the M54, apologies!enuff_zed wrote: ↑Fri Jan 12, 2024 9:00 amIf you only remove the air box how do you reach the starter connections and which way do you remove it? I can do an M54 with just the sound generator off but couldn’t see enough gap on the N52.thecremeegg wrote: ↑Thu Jan 11, 2024 10:33 pmI've done two and you only need to remove the airbox really, but like with any job on these cars, the more you remove the easier it gets hahenuff_zed wrote: ↑Wed Jan 10, 2024 5:45 pm I did PVR's last Friday. Not having done one before I was expecting a struggle.
I ended up removing the air filter box complete back to the front of the sound generator, unplugged a sensor near the front top of the manifold, undid the screw securing the fuel pipe to the rear of the manifold (purely to give another inch of movement), then removed the half dozen bolts and screws securing the manifold. Nothing else needed. This gave me enough room to lift the manifold and reach in from the front to access the electrical connectors and the short mounting bolt. The long bolt was easily rreached from the rear.
Whole job took around 45 minutes which was a pleasant surprise.
Test start and it was completely dead!!
Reconnected the battery and it worked.
Z4M - Interlagos Blue with Black Leather
Z4 3.0i - Sapphire Black with Red Leather - FOR SALE!
Z4 3.0i - Sapphire Black with Red Leather - FOR SALE!