BMW E85 - Drive Shaft Clunk on Acceleration - Replacment Part Quality Question

[JordanSecure]

Hello everyone,

My name is Jordan and this is my first post on the form. My 2004 BMW Z4 E85's drive train clunks on acceleration, specifically in 1st 2nd, and 3rd gear, at low speeds. The clunk only happens when engaging or disengaging the accelerator. I lift my foot off the petal and *clunk* it disengages, and I put my foot back on *clunk* it engages.

The sound seems to come from the back of the car and is really starting to annoy me because it is audible from outside the car, and can be felt on the inside.
After viewing other forum posts, it seems like it is a problem with the Guibo or Flex Disc on the drive train, and maybe also the support bearing.

They can get cracked and are a common problem on the BMW Z4, I have been looking for parts and I want to ask your opinion on the quality of these suppliers, I don't really want to spend $120.00 for this OEM rubber disk, that already broke once by the sound of it.

The first supplier is A-Premium Auto Parts and they sell the Disk and Support Bearing with bolts together for around $70.00
https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Drivesha ... 61&sr=1-13

I don't know if anyone here has tried their parts or knows of their quality. Any suggestions on where to look for quality parts that might not be OEM?

The Second option is found at parts geek for around $30.00 for just the flex disk.

Here https://www.partsgeek.com/bjt2hg9-bmw-z ... sEQAvD_BwE

The part can be purchased from a BMW Dealer for $160.00
Here https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/oem ... 6117511454

Another option for this part is through Corteco, which seems to maybe be reputable, Does anyone know of this brand, or the best location to buy good after-market parts?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-dr ... 6117511454

I just don't really have a lot of money right now, and I am not sure which route I should take, I have never purchased car parts before, and I think that companies are faking their reviews these days.

Thank you so much

- Jordan

[j3nks79]

Check the diff and subframe bushes first

[patriot66]

A common source of rear end/diff clunk is lack of grease on the splines/flange of the diff input shaft. This link is a good guide viewtopic.php?t=55471

[JordanSecure]

A common source of rear end/diff clunk is lack of grease on the splines/flange of the diff input shaft.

Thank you, after reading through his post, it seems like this can definitely cause something similar to the problem I am experiencing. I will grease the flange, but while I have it open, I will also inspect the flex disc. It just seems to be some real work getting the exhaust disconnected.

The thing is, when I got on/off the accelerator, there is a clunk but also a consequent lurch, like its picking up the slack, so I am not sure if only grease is my issue, but I want to give it a shot.
I have more free time in the spring, so that's when I will get it open and really get to work.

[JordanSecure]

Check the diff and subframe bushes first

Do you think those might also cause a small engagement lurch along with the clunk?

[patriot66]

The Guibo is at the front end between the gearbox and propshaft and the centre bearing/u.j are directly under the handbrake lever assembly, visible in my photo

20220209_130557.jpg (153.6 KiB) Viewed 422 times

If the clunk is definitely at the rear then it really has to be the diff. Mine was exactly the same when I bought my car and got progressively worse over a couple years until I greased it. Not perfect but MUCH better. I might do mine again when the weather improves

[JordanSecure]

If the clunk is definitely at the rear then it really has to be the diff. Mine was exactly the same when I bought my car and got progressively worse over a couple years until I greased it. Not perfect but MUCH better. I might do mine again when the weather improves

Thank you for your reply, the picture is one of the clearest I have seen of the drive shaft. I have been analyzing the greasing procedure that you used are share with me, and I have a few questions.

1. Does the type of grease matter? I was looking at this Premium Grease that works under high temperatures from Auto Zone: https://www.autozone.com/greases-and-ge ... 561720_0_0

2. How much grease do I apply, and do I apply it to the yellow part as seen in this photo, or somewhere else?


3. When you did the procedure yourself id you replace the prop-shaft drive bolts? I noticed that he included them in the parts list, but they are kind of expensive.

I know this is a lot of questions, an I am grateful for any insight you can provide.

[patriot66]

1) I used Liqui-Moly LM47 LIQUI MOLY LM 47 Long-Life Grease + MoS2 | 100 g | Lithium fat | SKU: 3510 https://amzn.eu/d/agDgejy

2) Applied thinly with a brush on yellow parts AND on the male and female splines. In hindsight I maybe should've been more generous.

3)I bought four propshaft bolts 26117571956 (Torx screw with ribs M10X23-10 ZNS3 chrome-free CR(VI)) on Ebay for about £25 if I remember correctly

[JordanSecure]

1) I used Liqui-Moly LM47 LIQUI MOLY LM 47 Long-Life Grease + MoS2 | 100 g | Lithium fat | SKU: 3510 https://amzn.eu/d/agDgejy

2) Applied thinly with a brush on yellow parts AND on the male and female splines. In hindsight I maybe should've been more generous.

3)I bought four propshaft bolts 26117571956 (Torx screw with ribs M10X23-10 ZNS3 chrome-free CR(VI)) on Ebay for about £25 if I remember correctly

Thank you for this clarification, the original post left me with some questions. I will be attempting this project next weekend, and I will post some photos so that the next person can have more information as well.
I have put together a google doc with some information as a write up as well. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1dXE ... sp=sharing

Thanks for your help!!

[patriot66]

Let us know how you get on

[JordanSecure]

Hello Patriot,

I have been rather busy with other pressing life matters, but today I am trying to get a start on this. I had a question about torque specs, I cant find any information free online, and BMW locked the information behind rediculous pay walls. Did you just tighten the bolts you took off as tight as you could?
I have a torque wrench with ft/lbs but I cant find much info on this!

any help is appreciated!!

- Jordan

[patriot66]

I always try to torque bolts wherever possible. I use this E46 Torque Guide. The very last section covers the Differential https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/show ... rque-guide

[Z4Mariner]

JordanSecure - If your pre-LCI E85 is new to you, the Bentley E46 shop manual is your friend. It will not cover everything that your E85 needs, but a lot of the parts are same or very similar. New, they are about $100, but used they can be very cheap. Torques values are useful for the parts that are the same.

Do repair records indicate that your car had a guibo replacement? Corteco is the OE manufacturer for a lot of E46 rubber / elastomer parts and seals - I would confidently use a Corteco guibo. If a guibo gets coated with oil or transmission fluid, it is likely to live a shorter life.

There are lots of opinions and strategies for parts shopping. Mine is usually to check RealOEM.com for part number, and then I look at my "short list": ECS, FCP, AutohausAZ, RockAuto (these are for the US). If those don't have stock, or seem ridiculously expensive, then I will search farther. ECS and FCP offer lifetime warranty on parts to original purchaser - and they offer free shipping above a minimum order. I've returned parts to ECS, FCP, and RockAuto with good success when the part was either not correct or came with clear defect. Searching for the OE BMW part like you did is also a good plan, especially it there is no alternate - sometimes a BMW dealer online is actually the cheapest.

Hope this helps - and let us know how the grease did for your clunk !

[JordanSecure]

Do repair records indicate that your car had a guibo replacement? Corteco is the OE manufacturer for a lot of E46 rubber / elastomer parts and seals - I would confidently use a Corteco guibo. If a guibo gets coated with oil or transmission fluid, it is likely to live a shorter life.

Hello Z4 Mariner,

You are right, I did a little more research and Cortecto seems to be the best bet, and considering that the prices provided by FCP are quite reasonable, I really think that is the best option.
The Bently shop manual seems like a good idea, I looked at it before but the Z series seemed to only be covered briefly, but if they have some of the same repair processes in common with other BMW vehicles I will consider getting one.

I will be getting the grease into the differential input shaft this week, and while I am down there I will inspect the quality of the Guibo and Support Bearing. I don't want to buy these parts unless it will really help, but if the clunk persists after the greasing I will pursue further recourse.

Thank you for your help!

[JordanSecure]

I always try to torque bolts wherever possible. I use this E46 Torque Guide.

Hey, quick update.
I have the car on blocks, and the drive shaft dropped. For future reference, the ribbed torx screws (x4) that secure the drive shaft to the differential input are torx socket size E12

I am ready to grease the input flange, but I need to remove the differential input nut first. There is not much clear information on the size or torque required for this nut.
I measured it and it seems to be around 1 3/16" which lands closest to 30mm

Nut:


Any idea about the torque or size for this nut?

Any help is greatly appreciated!