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Cleaning 108 style wheels
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Cleaning 108 style wheels
Whilst cleaning my wife's Z today, which means removing each wheel so I can clean inside the wheel and the wheel arch, I wondered whether I could or indeed should take apart the 2 pice 108 wheel.
Are there any reasons to NOT do this? Should I defalte the tyre before detensioning the bolts) And if I did so what is the bolt torque value?
Am I mad?
Are there any reasons to NOT do this? Should I defalte the tyre before detensioning the bolts) And if I did so what is the bolt torque value?
Am I mad?
- sp3ctre
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I have a set of 108's and looking at them very close I would not take them apart. I would have concern about taking them apart with the tires mounted as well. I have done a WEB search to see if I could fine the torque setting for assembly and no doubt some logical pattern to torque down the bolts. I fine nothing on the subject.
I would go with the toothbrush and yes you are quite mad...
I would go with the toothbrush and yes you are quite mad...
- takedown8
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There are small amounts of corrosion leaking from under the inner piece, hence my wish to take the wheels apart and correct the minor defects. It would also give me chance to clean inside the countersinking where the bolts sit and remove any accumulated brake dust between the 2 surfaces!
Yes I am quite mad, but get a perverse pleasure of doing completely mindless things.
I think I will just experiment - I have 2 spare 108s (F&R) which cost me peanuts on ebay and kept as spares agasint the day I (or my wife) kerbs a wheel. I will each bolt in a 180 degree apart pattern - logging where each bolt is located. I'll also log the torque that has to be applied to free each bolt and then take an average value during re-tightening. If that is successful I will move onto the wheels on the car.
That should nicely blank out Sunday!
Yes I am quite mad, but get a perverse pleasure of doing completely mindless things.
I think I will just experiment - I have 2 spare 108s (F&R) which cost me peanuts on ebay and kept as spares agasint the day I (or my wife) kerbs a wheel. I will each bolt in a 180 degree apart pattern - logging where each bolt is located. I'll also log the torque that has to be applied to free each bolt and then take an average value during re-tightening. If that is successful I will move onto the wheels on the car.
That should nicely blank out Sunday!
- sp3ctre
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Crikey... good luck! And of course you will take pics for the how-to?!Nick_in_Suffolk wrote:There are small amounts of corrosion leaking from under the inner piece, hence my wish to take the wheels apart and correct the minor defects. It would also give me chance to clean inside the countersinking where the bolts sit and remove any accumulated brake dust between the 2 surfaces!
Yes I am quite mad, but get a perverse pleasure of doing completely mindless things.
I think I will just experiment - I have 2 spare 108s (F&R) which cost me peanuts on ebay and kept as spares agasint the day I (or my wife) kerbs a wheel. I will each bolt in a 180 degree apart pattern - logging where each bolt is located. I'll also log the torque that has to be applied to free each bolt and then take an average value during re-tightening. If that is successful I will move onto the wheels on the car.
That should nicely blank out Sunday!
- Geodoc
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Nick, there was a lot of discussion on the 'old' Z4Um about 108s and the corrosion issue - generally the conclusion was that once the corrosion started it got worse - this seems to be a problem only with these wheels. A number of owners got them replaced under warranty (some problems getting them replaced if they were kerbed). The corrison seemed to be related to winter driving and salted roads. If corrision is becoming an issue cleaning won't solve it - bring them back to you dealer. It's a problem BMW are well aware of!!Nick_in_Suffolk wrote:There are small amounts of corrosion leaking from under the inner piece, hence my wish to take the wheels apart and correct the minor defects. It would also give me chance to clean inside the countersinking where the bolts sit and remove any accumulated brake dust between the 2 surfaces!
- takedown8
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Geodoc's right. 108s are well known to have that problem and you should have them replaced before your warranty ends. Maybe wait until closer to the end of your warranty to replace them so that you'll have a new set for as long as possible post-warranty.
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NickNick_in_Suffolk wrote:There are small amounts of corrosion leaking from under the inner piece, hence my wish to take the wheels apart and correct the minor defects. It would also give me chance to clean inside the countersinking where the bolts sit and remove any accumulated brake dust between the 2 surfaces!
Yes I am quite mad, but get a perverse pleasure of doing completely mindless things.
I think I will just experiment - I have 2 spare 108s (F&R) which cost me peanuts on ebay and kept as spares agasint the day I (or my wife) kerbs a wheel. I will each bolt in a 180 degree apart pattern - logging where each bolt is located. I'll also log the torque that has to be applied to free each bolt and then take an average value during re-tightening. If that is successful I will move onto the wheels on the car.
That should nicely blank out Sunday!
My only comment would be that the torque required to undo the bolt will be greater than that used when tightening. How much different I dont know, but I would hate for the rim to split because the bolts shear. Might just be worth asking a wheel pro.
There is a detailed post on zroadster.net http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12506 which details the repair of a split rim, might be able to find out what torque they set them to.
- BMW^Z4
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I wash them every week with meguiars brushes and wax them with Poorboys wheelwax every 2 months and no corrosion at all...
Some 108' have corrosions some of them not. Mines are 2 years old and they still shine ..
Sterling grey ,108 starspoke, alarm,KW v3 suspension,clear lights,cd/mp3, ipod 20GB, hardtop,manual,wind deflector, aerodynamic package, silver trim,Michelin pilot sport tyres, cruise control etc ...
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