>

How to do E85 3.0i Manual Gearbox and Diff fluid change?

B

bearded_ed

Member
Hiya,

About to get the Zed this week. In addition to doing preventative maintenance on vanos and disa rebuilds I'd like to do trans and Diff fluid refresh.

I've found a number of threads discussing this but they're all several years old. Which means links and or photos don't work.

I think I have the fluids themselves sorted, the attached photos is what I intend to use. (Castrol for diff)

The thing I'm struggling with is bolts and washers! Where do I get them from? Do I have to go down to bmw? Plus torque settings... Anyone know?

Cheers b
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20190716_081050.jpg
    Screenshot_20190716_081050.jpg
    50.5 KB · Views: 3,115
Gearbox oil, you want a GL4 spec oil. Double check as some of them do carry GL4 and GL5 specs, but GL4 needs to be the one you use as it's safe with soft yellow metals used in BMW boxes.

Plugs, get them from a dealers. They're cheap enough. Goes without saying to always crack the FILL plug loose first!

35nm gearbox plugs, 60nm diff plugs.
 
I just did my 3 ltr E86 and I used 3 ltres of oil. Give or take 150 ml. The diff took 1.2 litres and the gearbox was 1.6 to 1.7 litres. I used Valvoline GL4 oil for mine, both the same oil in diff and gearbox. Both have the BMW recommendation on the back.
I used ketchup pumps to get the oil in and out, such as these:
https://www.discountedcleaningsupplies.co.uk/white-38mm-closure-to-suit-5-litre-containers-30ml-dosage-contico-pqphfw25l?ppc_keyword=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwYfjp7a54wIVFODtCh0r5AhJEAYYAyABEgIPOfD_BwE
They screw onto the litre containers and you need to cut the lower pipe down a little as too long. I made an extension to the fill pipe for the diff as there was no drain plug and pumped it out. Then I used my fill pump ( I had ordered a few pumps) , so not to contaminate to refill . You need a hose on the end of the nozzle to go in the diff to fill. Works a treat. The diff plug was one of these:
https://www.diycarserviceparts.co.uk/laser-tools-1575-drain-plug-key-14-17mm-hex.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIi8KwpLe54wIVia3tCh1iHQrVEAQYAiABEgLkiPD_BwE
Its the 17mm end. Te gearbox was an 8 or 10mm allen key removal.
Thats for mine and I have seen other versions for different BMW's when researching what was needed. :thumbsup:
 
Wonderful thanks for the help guys. I'll head down to BMW once I've had a chance to figure out what size and shape the bolts actually are in my car!
 
sooo.. gl4 for both manual e85 3.0i gearbox and back axle then ?
and i see differing specs like 75-80 or 75 90, are those asa thicknesses ? as mine will never go abroad or see any great distances..
 
mine is the worlds fastest shopping trolley, it goes shopping and days out and zed meets :lol:

mineral or synthetic ?
 
wonkydonkey said:
road warrior said:
wonkydonkey said:
"Abroad" as in...countries where temperatures range from -15°C to +40°C? :wink:
Click to expand...

yes ! :lol: not even calais ...
Click to expand...
My point was that Blighty gives us that range of temperatures these days! 8)
Click to expand...
i figured thats where you were going..
but the more i read the more confused i get, gl4 im sure of - but for which, gearbox AND back axle ? or differant ?
 
I changed mine back in April 2017. I always use Castrol oils in my vehicles and so used Castrol Syntrans B75W (API GL-4, ZF TE-ML 11) in the gearbox and Syntrax Long Life 75W-90 (API GL-5, ZF TE-ML 05A,12B,17B,19C,21A, BMW Non LS Rear Axles) in the diff :thumbsup:
 
I spoke to Opie oils regarding GL4/GL5 spec oils and the following is what they have told me, hope its helpful

The GL4/GL5 thing that seems to be getting more and more well known is based on out of date information. Back in the 1970s, when GL5 oils were first introduced, it was very quickly realised that the additives attacked yellow metals. That was no good to the oil manufacturer or user, so the additive pack was soon changed (by reputable oil companies) so that they use the same additives as in a GL4 oil, but in a higher concentration. That means that GL5 oils from reputable companies will not attack brass synchros. I don't know if that is the case with oils from companies that we don't deal with though.

There are certain GL5 oils that are better as diff oils as they are too slippery for synchros, but they are not attacking the brass.
 
GMANLAW said:
I spoke to Opie oils regarding GL4/GL5 spec oils and the following is what they have told me, hope its helpful

The GL4/GL5 thing that seems to be getting more and more well known is based on out of date information. Back in the 1970s, when GL5 oils were first introduced, it was very quickly realised that the additives attacked yellow metals. That was no good to the oil manufacturer or user, so the additive pack was soon changed (by reputable oil companies) so that they use the same additives as in a GL4 oil, but in a higher concentration. That means that GL5 oils from reputable companies will not attack brass synchros. I don't know if that is the case with oils from companies that we don't deal with though.

There are certain GL5 oils that are better as diff oils as they are too slippery for synchros, but they are not attacking the brass.
Click to expand...
:thumbsup: useful!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom