Modification ideas??

[Pontio]

If you have a wheel alignment done it will just put it back to where it was originally if the car was not out of spec then..

 

[20ducks]

Defy:

If you look at the top of your stut tower you'll see the three nuts which secure the top strut mount to the tower. You'll also notice a dowel with an allen key fitting. The three nut's hold the strut in place through elongated holes. The dowel positions the strut tops in a fairly central position which is preset at the factory. If you jack the car up, remove the dowel completely then slacken off the three nuts you can move the strut top along the elongated holes. If you hold the strut at the most inboard position and tighten up the nuts you now have 1.5 degrees negative camber!

^I highly recommend this...
It makes a HUGE change in the handling.

I recommend doing a full alignment when doing this though.
If you just crank the camber over you also affect the other settings.

This is performed by semi-pro and novice alike at HPDE's. There are various little tools that can be used to measure the settings so that after the event they can be returned to stock settings. Makes a big difference on any track run.

 

[Curtis]

but if you do that you will have uneven wear on your tyres and they will last substantially less to what they normally would though wouldnt they?

At 1.5 degrees negative camber the additional wear on the inner edge of the tyres is fairly minimal. The rears run close to this figure as standard and suffer very little uneven wear. At the track I increase the fronts to 2.5 degrees negative with about 5 degrees of positive castor ( using the adjustable top mounts ). Everything is a compromise though. Running excessive negative front camber will reduce the contact surface of the tyre while travelling in a straight line and will therefore reduce braking efficiency. For the same reason it can also reduce rear wheel traction under braking and acceleration. That's where adjustable top mounts are so good. You can add positive castor rather than negative camber. This gives you a flat footprint while travelling in a straight line but feeds in negative camber as you turn the steering. Imagine how a motorbike front end works, it's the same principle. Unfortunately the rear isn't as flexible. You have to compromise between cornering grip and straight line traction. I never go more than 1.5 degrees negative on the rear.