Roof issue

[andymorris]

Thanks for the reply. The scanner says it’s the hall sensor shell 2 roof packed. I got the roof to close somehow so I can get in the boot now. I will need to manually raise shell 2 tomorrow to get at the wires as I also think this is a broken wire fault. Not too sure how to manually lift the rear screen although one post says to slacken off the brass nuts on the pump to release the pressure but the rear screen will still be locked so will be pressing the open roof button and see if we can lift up the rear screen manually. Is that right? Cheers

 

[RobbiZ4]

The scanner says it’s the hall sensor shell 2 roof packed.

That's the problem: this info is wrong! A wire is broken, not this hall sensor. A replacement of this component does not make any sense.
Be sure, all 2x2 (right) and 1x2 wires (left) are already damaged and should always be completely replaced. Otherwise you will repair 3-4 times.

I got the roof to close somehow so I can get in the boot now.

Wow, that is good news.

I will need to manually raise shell 2 tomorrow...

[..] although one post says to slacken off the brass nuts on the pump to release the pressure but the rear screen will still be locked so will be pressing the open roof button and see if we can lift up the rear screen manually. Is that right? Cheers

That is not possible this way, as it is hydraulically and mechanically locked.

First open the trunk lid and then lock the two flippers of the locking system (outside left and right) with a finger or a small tool. The 2 e-motors have to start the locking process and you will hear it.
Then the trunk lid is "logically" locked, but physically open for further activities. The lid can be put down and lies about 1 cm higher than usual. But the roof can be driven. THIS IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT STEPS!

Next step is, to open the roof by the open button in the car until you run into the fault situation. Then it stops and the shell got lifted some inches, but will come down after a minute. Stop the ignition and remove the key (FOB) from the car.
The shell is NOT locked and can be moved manually, when you turn the FRONT brass screw with a 6mm hex key on the hydraulic pump as a maximum of 2 turns! Keep care, it is not a screw, it is a valve!
This will release the hydraulic pressure from the hydraulic hoses of the roof shell. Now it can be moved manually, but 2 persons are required!

 

[andymorris]

Hi - I have the roof open and now trying to dignose which wires are at fault. I need the wiring diagram to help me do conituity tests on all the wires but without the diagram I don't know which pins at the roof control module relate to which wires. Can anyone help with a wiring digram please.

 

[Stevo1987]

Hi - I have the roof open and now trying to dignose which wires are at fault. I need the wiring diagram to help me do conituity tests on all the wires but without the diagram I don't know which pins at the roof control module relate to which wires. Can anyone help with a wiring digram please.

There is someone on YouTube called diagnostic Dan who troubleshoots roof problem. He has the pin outs.

 

[flybobbie]

Hi - I have the roof open and now trying to dignose which wires are at fault. I need the wiring diagram to help me do conituity tests on all the wires but without the diagram I don't know which pins at the roof control module relate to which wires. Can anyone help with a wiring digram please.

https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=119914

 

[RobbiZ4]

The hall sensor on the right has a yellow and brown pair of wires(17 & 4), the microswitch a green and brown pair (23 & 10)

All the brown ones are the signal lines, the coloured ones are power supply to the sensors.

 

[Marcoose]

I get chills down the spine every time there’s a thread like this. It’s a matter of time until it’s my turn.

 

[RobbiZ4]

As a matter of fact. But you could also tackle the remediation before the first roof problem occurs. The broken wires will hit every e89. :driving:

Why not now?

 

[Marcoose]

Yes. I’ve changed the salmon relays in August or September. That was easy. I can put a plastic bag around the pump foam. It should be easy. I need an indy to help with the other stuff. I’m afraid to break something.

 

[AnubisZed]

Yes. I’ve changed the salmon relays in August or September. That was easy. I can put a plastic bag around the pump foam. It should be easy. I need an indy to help with the other stuff. I’m afraid to break something.

It took me a day to change all of my hydraulic lines and roof wiring loom. It is a long job, but well worth the effort. I only had one hose split but thought it was better to replace the lot now rather than do all this work again. If you're good with your hands, and folliw the How-To, then you can't really go wrong.

 

[RobbiZ4]

Perfect and respect, it's been a long way (or day ).

 

[Big Bad Boris]

As a matter of fact. But you could also tackle the remediation before the first roof problem occurs. The broken wires will hit every e89. :driving:

Why not now?

Robbie, do you suspect the wire issue is primarily down to ageing (the wires get old and brittle perhaps) or more related to a certain amount of cycles of roof operation?

 

[RobbiZ4]

Morning,
I'd say both causes in combination.
If the roof is not used at all from day one, after 20 years the cables can break on the first try.

If you are an intensive user on a daily basis, these issues will start already after 5 years (yes, I already had to care about a 2016 E89).

Let's say it's a structural weakness of this design. The hydraulic wire harness is bent in an arc with a too small radius.

From my experience an average usage seems to be about 300 roof cycles per year. That makes about 3k in 10 years with the results we currently can see or read.

In beetween, I've placed an electronic counter next to my hydraulic pump to get a better overview of my roof cycles.


The whole story:
https://www-zroadster-com.translate.goog/forum/threads/absicherung-hydraulikpumpe-gegen-relaisversagen.133818/?_x_tr_sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=wapp

 

[Marcoose]

Wow. 300 cycles per annum? I doubt I drive the Zed 150 times per annum, and I’m lucky if I open the roof 20 times per annum.

 

[RobbiZ4]

... I open the roof 20 times per annum.

But if you live in a city like us, you will never park it with the roof open. So it will open up to 10 times on a sunny day.

 

[SansFoy]

Not sure how old this thread is, (odd that the site does not include the posting date for each post. Most sites do. This would be very helpful) but is still pertinent. I believe a microswitch is bad, indicating that the boot is not secure. I disconnected the offending switch to trouble shoot. Night came, so I closed the boot, and the roof is full up. The issue now is that the boot will not open, and the roof will not open. I attempted to jump pin 12 at the junction box, and can hear the boot lock activating, but the boot will not open. I hit pin 12 multiple times, and each time I can hear it, but when I go to open it, the latch moves, but the boot is still locked.

Any ideas where I go from here?


FYI> reading to codes, the left switch showed open and the right closed. Now, the left is disconnected, but the code shows it as open

 

[Pondrew]

Not sure how old this thread is,

You're fine. It's 2 days since the previous post.

Go into your profile and change the settings to show dates. It, for some reason, seems to default to not showing dates and times.

 

[flybobbie]

Get one person to do the wire shorting and another to open as they hear the motors.
I came across similar problem once where i had to "catch it" just in time.

 

[Nictrix]

Not sure how old this thread is,

You're fine. It's 2 days since the previous post.

Go into your profile and change the settings to show dates. It, for some reason, seems to default to not showing dates and times.

It's been a year and 2 days.
The date of the posts should be between the posters details and what they posted.

 

[Pondrew]

It's been a year and 2 days.

Oh yes, so it has. I need another trip to Specsavers!