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What have you done to your car today?

Little tip. You can split the ball joints apart without a splitter. Just undo the nut and leave on the tip of the threads (to protect them).
Then get your hammer and give it a whack on the side of the ball joint. This will break the tapper and it will be free.
 
Replaced front fogs for new ones, massive improvement. Replaced front bumper badge as well as steering wheel one (steering wheel was a stick on).

Just waiting for @True_blue to get his Gap Tech replaced :poke:
 
Jollygiant said:
Does anyone else think that strut isn't very well fitted into the hub, or is it a 'feature' of coilovers?
I've only done OEM-style replacements and am used to them protruding a good 30-40mm through the hub.
 
pvr said:
Replaced front fogs for new ones, massive improvement. Replaced front bumper badge as well as steering wheel one (steering wheel was a stick on).

Hey I’m looking to replace my steering wheel badge. Did you just stick a new badge on top of old badge? Or did you remove the old badge first? Should I disconnect the battery if I am to try and remove the old badge so I don’t set the airbag off? Lol
 
j3nks79 said:
Little tip. You can split the ball joints apart without a splitter. Just undo the nut and leave on the tip of the threads (to protect them).
Then get your hammer and give it a whack on the side of the ball joint. This will USUALLY break the taper and it will be free.
Ask me how I know. :roll:
As with any job, there's always one that doesn't conform. In this case it was the hub I'd just sheared a knuckle bolt in and nothing would shift that bottom pin so I could tackle the bolt on the bench! I accept that working on my knees on a gravel drive probably wasn't the ideal scenario either. :rofl:
 
Calverz said:
pvr said:
Replaced front fogs for new ones, massive improvement. Replaced front bumper badge as well as steering wheel one (steering wheel was a stick on).

Hey I’m looking to replace my steering wheel badge. Did you just stick a new badge on top of old badge? Or did you remove the old badge first? Should I disconnect the battery if I am to try and remove the old badge so I don’t set the airbag off? Lol

The badge can NOT be removed. Only stick on you can use
 
[ref]1536Z4[/ref], I’m not sure you have any power to weight ratio issues. But good work. 😊
PS remember to update your signature.
 
enuff_zed said:
j3nks79 said:
Little tip. You can split the ball joints apart without a splitter. Just undo the nut and leave on the tip of the threads (to protect them).
Then get your hammer and give it a whack on the side of the ball joint. This will USUALLY break the taper and it will be free.
Ask me how I know. :roll:
As with any job, there's always one that doesn't conform. In this case it was the hub I'd just sheared a knuckle bolt in and nothing would shift that bottom pin so I could tackle the bolt on the bench! I accept that working on my knees on a gravel drive probably wasn't the ideal scenario either. :rofl:

Defiantly helps when you have a two poster
 
pvr said:
Calverz said:
pvr said:
Replaced front fogs for new ones, massive improvement. Replaced front bumper badge as well as steering wheel one (steering wheel was a stick on).

Hey I’m looking to replace my steering wheel badge. Did you just stick a new badge on top of old badge? Or did you remove the old badge first? Should I disconnect the battery if I am to try and remove the old badge so I don’t set the airbag off? Lol

The badge can NOT be removed. Only stick on you can use
There was a German on YouTube who seemed to get it off but it looks pretty risky.
 
[ref]Jollygiant[/ref], just looking on eBay are these wishbones about £80 per side, and do they come with the lollipops at that price?
Just wondering if too good to be true? I was ordering lemforder lollipops for £76 the pair.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315100571521?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=yi1ojZncSxy&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=tYWyouTrRES&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
 
j3nks79 said:
Little tip. You can split the ball joints apart without a splitter. Just undo the nut and leave on the tip of the threads (to protect them).
Then get your hammer and give it a whack on the side of the ball joint. This will break the tapper and it will be free.

I did try that with the stuck one and it wasn't having any of it. Even got the 4ft bit of scarf pole out and knelt on it whilst whacking splitter/ side of joint and nothing. Borrowed the tri fork type splitter from the garage and it popped in about 30 seconds!
enuff_zed said:
Jollygiant said:
Does anyone else think that strut isn't very well fitted into the hub, or is it a 'feature' of coilovers?
I've only done OEM-style replacements and am used to them protruding a good 30-40mm through the hub.

I did check that and they are in tight and both in about the same, though I didn't measure them!

When I get the tracking done I may see if they can set all the camber/ toe up and give a nice stance but not the 30º Corsa type!
 
Jollygiant said:
enuff_zed said:
Jollygiant said:
Does anyone else think that strut isn't very well fitted into the hub, or is it a 'feature' of coilovers?
I've only done OEM-style replacements and am used to them protruding a good 30-40mm through the hub.

I did check that and they are in tight and both in about the same, though I didn't measure them!

When I get the tracking done I may see if they can set all the camber/ toe up and give a nice stance but not the 30º Corsa type!

I have a set of these same coilovers sitting in a box at home. I couldn’t work out how to fit them because the bases are different to OEM, but your picture shows how it works, i.e. they just go into rather than through the hub. The difference to OEM can be seen in the linked “for sale” thread.
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1937479&hilit=Maxpeeding#p1937479
 
Zedebee said:

I have a set of these same coilovers sitting in a box at home. I couldn’t work out how to fit them because the bases are different to OEM, but your picture shows how it works, i.e. they just go into rather than through the hub. The difference to OEM can be seen in the linked “for sale” thread.
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1937479&hilit=Maxpeeding#p1937479

These were on the car when I bought it.

Even though they are apparently cheap they seem to ride well enough and the adjustment does actually work. How well they can be set up will been seen.
 
Just replaced the third brake light. What should have been a 20 min job turned into around 2 hours. Unfortunately when I was trying to remove the nuts, the entire bolt was turning. So basically I had no choice but to brake the light and effectively remove the entire light with force. This then exposed the bolt heads so I was able to get a hold of them and then remove the nuts. Eventually I succeeded. The previous light was a bmw oem one so I’m just not sure if it was so old or what. Annoyingly, a previous owner appears to have tried to glue one side of the light so there is some gunk I wasn’t able to get off with soapy water. Will need something stronger that doesn’t damage the paint work.
 
2 days ago took it to a track, Ahvenisto circuit (the so called Finnish nürburgring) :roll:

Today did manage to get bmw scanner working and managed to get some coding done :thumbsup:
 
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