Micke said:Autoglym engine & machine cleaner, a wheel brush and a kitchen sponge

Micke said:Autoglym engine & machine cleaner, a wheel brush and a kitchen sponge
Jollygiant said:But eventually it was done.
Does anyone else think that strut isn't very well fitted into the hub, or is it a 'feature' of coilovers?Jollygiant said:
pvr said:Replaced front fogs for new ones, massive improvement. Replaced front bumper badge as well as steering wheel one (steering wheel was a stick on).
Ask me how I know. :roll:j3nks79 said:Little tip. You can split the ball joints apart without a splitter. Just undo the nut and leave on the tip of the threads (to protect them).
Then get your hammer and give it a whack on the side of the ball joint. This will USUALLY break the taper and it will be free.
Calverz said:pvr said:Replaced front fogs for new ones, massive improvement. Replaced front bumper badge as well as steering wheel one (steering wheel was a stick on).
Hey I’m looking to replace my steering wheel badge. Did you just stick a new badge on top of old badge? Or did you remove the old badge first? Should I disconnect the battery if I am to try and remove the old badge so I don’t set the airbag off? Lol
enuff_zed said:Ask me how I know. :roll:j3nks79 said:Little tip. You can split the ball joints apart without a splitter. Just undo the nut and leave on the tip of the threads (to protect them).
Then get your hammer and give it a whack on the side of the ball joint. This will USUALLY break the taper and it will be free.
As with any job, there's always one that doesn't conform. In this case it was the hub I'd just sheared a knuckle bolt in and nothing would shift that bottom pin so I could tackle the bolt on the bench! I accept that working on my knees on a gravel drive probably wasn't the ideal scenario either. :rofl:
There was a German on YouTube who seemed to get it off but it looks pretty risky.pvr said:Calverz said:pvr said:Replaced front fogs for new ones, massive improvement. Replaced front bumper badge as well as steering wheel one (steering wheel was a stick on).
Hey I’m looking to replace my steering wheel badge. Did you just stick a new badge on top of old badge? Or did you remove the old badge first? Should I disconnect the battery if I am to try and remove the old badge so I don’t set the airbag off? Lol
The badge can NOT be removed. Only stick on you can use
j3nks79 said:Little tip. You can split the ball joints apart without a splitter. Just undo the nut and leave on the tip of the threads (to protect them).
Then get your hammer and give it a whack on the side of the ball joint. This will break the tapper and it will be free.
I did try that with the stuck one and it wasn't having any of it. Even got the 4ft bit of scarf pole out and knelt on it whilst whacking splitter/ side of joint and nothing. Borrowed the tri fork type splitter from the garage and it popped in about 30 seconds!
enuff_zed said:Does anyone else think that strut isn't very well fitted into the hub, or is it a 'feature' of coilovers?Jollygiant said:
I've only done OEM-style replacements and am used to them protruding a good 30-40mm through the hub.
Jollygiant said:enuff_zed said:Does anyone else think that strut isn't very well fitted into the hub, or is it a 'feature' of coilovers?Jollygiant said:
I've only done OEM-style replacements and am used to them protruding a good 30-40mm through the hub.
I did check that and they are in tight and both in about the same, though I didn't measure them!
When I get the tracking done I may see if they can set all the camber/ toe up and give a nice stance but not the 30º Corsa type!
Zedebee said:
I have a set of these same coilovers sitting in a box at home. I couldn’t work out how to fit them because the bases are different to OEM, but your picture shows how it works, i.e. they just go into rather than through the hub. The difference to OEM can be seen in the linked “for sale” thread.
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1937479&hilit=Maxpeeding#p1937479